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The client claims the problem worsened over time; nonetheless, a new problem has emerged: the vehicle suddenly stops cranking. I connected it to a charger after seeing the warning "low battery, please start the car" on the dashboard, but the engine still wouldn't crank. Could it be just a blown fuse, or is there anything more serious going on? By the way, I was wondering if you had any recommendations for a good VCI to utilise with ISTA right now; I'm having trouble measuring injector flow with my current diagnostic tools (XTool D8S and Autocom).

Is this an ongoing issue or did it suddenly become worse?

Prior to removing injectors, I would verify correction values and do a leak off test. On the n47 engine, the only problems I've ever encountered were faulty injectors and related codes. However, it doesn't rule out the possibility that your injector is questionable. Fuel pressure in real-time data is something else I'd look into.

Greetings, all! In regards to BMWs equipped with the N47 2.0d engine, I would appreciate some guidance. Here are the symptoms: Idle engine runs harsh, causing the entire car to shake. Pushing down on the gas pedal produces very little force. A strong diesel odour becomes noticeable after approximately one minute of operation. The ECU does not record any error codes. Regardless of the temperature, the issue is clearly visible. The engine isn't operating smoothly and feels feeble under acceleration, but the car still starts. Injector overfueling or leakage could be the culprit, according to my investigation; yet, the absence of codes is surprising. What are the questions? Does it sound like a single negligent injector or maybe more than one? Does a mechanical failure of an N47 injector result in the throwing of any codes? Is it better to examine the injector correction values first or to do a leak-off test immediately? Before I remove the injectors from the N47, are there any other typical reasons for this? In ahead, I'm grateful.

Duh, have you looked up this problem on Google? After that, what more did you do? Is each menu option still not clear to you? Could you please try pairing a different phone and seeing if it works? Is it possible to read codes with the Torque app and a generic OBD2 dongle? Any more issues with the audio? Lastly, to ensure the system is completely turned off, have you unplugged and then reconnected the 12v battery?

I have used the nearby area, but I have not had any success thus far.

Sure, that's for a diagnostic purpose. Are you looking for a local Mercedes expert?

And that's only taking a glance at it! All I have to do is email them a picture, haha.

On average, a dealer will charge around £200 for an hour of diagnostics.

Pacific Rim. Lancaster, Texas. I have spent the better part of two weeks exploring various online resources. The dealers are asking £200 to simply examine it, haha.

Stockport's SPR or Poynton's Nick Webster

Sharing your whereabouts could be useful. By the way, have you looked up "Mercedes independent" on the internet?

Does anyone in the Northwest know of any Mercedes coders outside of dealerships? I recently had my car put into transport mode and then removed out of it, and now my Bluetooth calls are completely muted.

You did everything; thanks for the info. Everything was done in August with the blower and without a hitch! Along with the new water pump, I also constructed the one at the rear out of aluminium. I must have underfilled it, let some air out, and then let it fall. It has worked wonderfully ever since I top-filled it using the bleed screws. Unfortunately, I disconnected the tube that goes to the top of the radiator because I failed to see the bleed screw in the coolant reservoir. There is absolutely no air in the coolant reservoir after today's drive. I did not realise there was no air in it the first time I filled it, but now I know better. Even after an hour on the road today, it was still showing as max queue when I returned home.

I have two points to make: 1. In addition to the plastic pipes in the front and under the supercharger, did you also replace the crossover pipe in the back? In my initial attempt, I only addressed the two primary leaks at the front. However, upon further inspection with a scope, I discovered fluid beneath the supercharger and on the gearbox housing. This led me to the realisation that I needed to address the crossover pipe and the one that connects the oil cooler to the underside of the supercharger. Well, would you believe it? Fluid still needed to be added. At last, I located the source of the leak: the little line exiting the thermostat casing. Then, praise the Lord, it will be sealed. By the way, aside from the thermostat housing, pressure testing was never really useful in locating the other leaks. Under pressure, it is difficult to notice them because either the valley beneath the supercharger or the drop pan beneath the vehicle collects the drips. 2. There are several posts regarding this, but a bleeding process can be used to remove air. There are two ways I do it: first, when I have the vacuum bleeder available; second, after the fact; and third, when I don't. Obtaining a pneumatic vacuum bleeder is clearly the optimal method for removing air from the many air pockets found in the block's hoses and water jackets. The steps to do that are rather obvious. Halfway through, loosen the bolts on the reservoir and raise it as high as possible to make it the system's highest point. Turn off the engine and remove water from each bleeder by cracking open each one, including the one on the water bottle. Before starting the engine and bleeding everything again, make sure the coolant container is full. Raise the temperature of the engine and turn up the heat. After a few minutes of running, you should see solid heat emanating from the vents. After that, you should crack the bleeders again. Refill fluid reservoir and reassemble. Keep it on the road for a week, and then fill up the fluids and crack bleeders again. Additional problems may arise if you continue to experience air.

Yes, it is absolutely insane that the side Rads effectively cool the supercharger. Either there's a leak or I didn't fill it correctly. It took two top-offs before my wife's Fpace's leak became apparent on the front auxiliary cooling system, which is somewhat to the front. I smelt coolant where the car was, so I checked for leaks, but thus yet, nothing has come up.

Effectively, the intercooler circuit is on its own. In this case, it is displayed inverted. The intercooler pump is connected to the top hose, while the two smaller hoses extend from the intercoolers. It is essentially its own circuit, with the exception of a little branch off the radiator hose, that is only connected to aid in filling and bleeding.

Okay, as some of you may recall, I installed a water pump and upgraded all of my coolant pipes to aluminium. It was a problem-free summer. I haven't added coolant since topping it up in the autumn, so it was strange that I had to do it recently. Even though it's winter where I am, I detected the fragrance of coolant and did not detect any leaks after pressurising the system. The headgasket isn't leaking, either. Tomorrow, when it's cold, I'll bleed the system on the reservoir as well and top it off. I should have done that earlier. I may have experienced a vaporous state. I was wondering if the supercharger coolant was on its own loop or if it was mixed all together. I get that the answer is affirmative when taken as a whole, but I don't see why, when the water temperature is normal but the lines leading to the supercharger are very cold, the electric pump is circulating this icy water to keep the supercharger running smoothly, and the water lines are connected to the main coolant line. Two frontal, miniature radiators are used to circulate water using an electric pump that is part of the supercharger. Just so we're clear, the coolant isn't mixing with the other coolant.

The rule from 1998 was completely new to me. I do have a 'unsafe, handbuilt, backyard towbar' that I purchased with the intention of using it with a W123, in case anyone is interested. It could work, but it's drastically simplified compared to the real thing, and my trusted German mechanic in Exeter threatens to shoot me if I try to install a "rubbish UK-made" alternative.

Vehicles registered after August 1, 1998, are the only ones that require towbars to be Euro type approved. Additionally, because W123 stopped being manufactured in 1986, you are free to attach any ill-advised, home-made towbar that you think could work! 😄

MT24, have you ever come across one? I'm on the hunt for something similar, but hen's teeth are so rare! Where could it be, though? I'm sure it exists. I have one that claims to suit a W123, but my technician is adamant that we can only install one that is EURO type-approved, even if it isn't! So it's not used.

https://www.oris-automotive.com/en/retrofit-towbars-for-european-market/detachable-towbars/

In 1987, MB in Tooting installed our 123 280TE towbar—not very practical, I know—but it was an Oris model, and the hook was detachable, so that was a huge plus.

still need to verify if it's the right one

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/11056810868