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wow! I'm just giving it enough time and will be driving it over the weekend to rescan and see what's wrong; getting the responses has cleared my mind for now, haha. The only light that came back was about a communication issue, but it was marked as minor.

I purchased my used 2006 MB with full confidence. I started off by purchasing an iCarSoft scanner. There are no EML warning lights on the dashboard, but there are a plethora of stored 'faults', including one that claimed the vehicle was missing a gearbox. It has been five years since I cleared the lot, and nobody has returned.

Ignore the request for clarification regarding the outstanding code. Thanks once more

I am grateful. I'll wait a bit before scanning again, since only one of the minor errors has returned so far.

Ah, I see! Thank you for clarifying the outstanding code. After fixing those bugs earlier, I suppose I'll just have to wait and see. Only one has made it back thus far.

Another possibility exists, and it involves an impending error. On initial occurrence, the MIL will not be illuminated by certain faults, even if they are emission relevant. For some, the failure must occur over the course of several drive cycles, usually three.

Additionally, the MIL lamp will not have been turned on, regardless of the presence of an error code. Faults that are considered to be relevant to emissions are the only ones that need to be lit. Engine, gearbox, dosing control module, or any other on-board diagnostics (OBD) node or module must be faulty for the problem to be relevant to emissions. Some of those codes and descriptions won't come from an OBD node.

Responded from the opposite end. Yes, as mentioned earlier, not all codes produce light in the same way.

It is possible, indeed. There are a lot of codes, some of which may be old, stored in the vehicle. In most cases, erasing the codes and then seeing which ones return after a week should suffice to ascertain their safety.

Has anyone else experienced a 2017 W205 250D coupe with a bitchy drive and low mileage? Is it possible to have no engine warning light but numerous error codes? Since someone else has asked this question and not received a response, I was wondering if there is a known reason why this could happen. The following P229F85 was shown by the Carly scanner that I used. Nox sensor 2 (in cylinder bank 1) is not working properly. There is an issue with communication with the control unit 'combustion engine' (U010000). There seems to be an issue with the control unit 'Multifunction camera' and the U11A300 communication. There is an issue with the electronic ignition lock's communication (U016887). This is a B1F4500 warning: the starter battery is too resistive. The B21059A is a The starting battery's capacity is inadequate. The system or component does not meet the operating conditions. Communication with the 'combustion engine' control unit is not working properly (U010000). The control unit 'Traction system' provided plausible data (U041600-). U010000: The 'combustion engine' control unit is not receiving data properly. The 'combustion engine' control unit is not functioning properly via communication. The 'combustion engine' control unit is not functioning properly, according to the C10000 system. Please help me understand my rights and responsibilities when dealing with the company and the warranty; otherwise, I may have to return the vehicle.

No, I'm positive I have the correct cylinder; thank you very much.

Although it may seem trivial, are you using the correct cylinder 1? (Operational error P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire) When compared to other manufacturers, Renault comes out on top when counting from the gearbox end, rather than the timing gear. Search online for "Renault petrol injector tests"; there are many videos available; watch a couple. The simplest thing to do would be to switch out the injector on cylinder 1 for another. Will the OBD2 code also change? Prior to investing in costly measures like injector replacement, a compression test should be considered.

I ran a diagnostic check using an OMDII reader; the flashing engine light was the first source of alarm. The scan returned code P0301; the spark plugs were extremely dirty, but new ones have been installed. I should have diagnosed more quickly because that is not the problem; I have also installed a new coil pack.

Is it safe to assume that you haven't had a diagnostic scan if you're playing parts darts? Next step well-taken.

Finding the cause of a missfire on my partner's gorgeous Clio Mk3 is a blast. The spark plugs and coil pack were replaced, so they are no longer a possibility. I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of a helpful video that demonstrates how to test, clean, or replace fuel injectors.

Hopefully it’s the switch then as you anticipated though a bit strange that hi beam not working?….As Antman suggested, a degree of diagnostics may be necessary...I no longer possess a PC or Forscan, regrettably, so I must depend on local establishments...At least you got it running again & I’m sure all will pan out well…ATVB…..

I accessed the vehicle using the key located at the back of the fob and charged the car overnight.Next morning both fobs worked and car started straight away .Still no light switch connected but when engine starts, lights come on but no main beam available. Turn engine off ,lights go off .No intermittent flashing every ten seconds.Car is as normal apart from no light switch connected 🤷.I am having a new switch installed and connected on Monday morning.

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I appreciate your response.The battery has consistently performed well; I fully charged it on Tuesday nite and drove it yesterday. Upon returning home from work, I will attempt to use the key from the back of the fob to unlock the car, hoping the alarm remains inactive, and then connect the battery to the charger.If it charges, proceed to obtain a diagnostic assessment.

If you charged the battery while it was still connected to a charger exceeding 4 amps, there is a significant likelihood that you have overcharged the battery. I experienced this with a 4 amp charger while I had Covid/flu, and the car was connected to the charger for more than a week. The alarm is likely to activate when you utilise the blade to open it, but remain calm as it will cease once you try to start the vehicle, and the fob should function properly thereafter.My vehicle failed to recognise either of the two fobs, and I discerned that it was in lockdown mode...That is contingent upon the absence of an unrelated problem, evidently…If you suspect the battery is overcharged, activate all lights, hazards, and the heater to prevent any abrupt surge.If it is the same issue I experienced, the battery was overcharged and subsequently discharged itself before recharging repeatedly; if this is indeed the case, you will notice the electrical system behaving somewhat erratically for a period.Engaging in multiple cycles of locking and unlocking, followed by a thorough test run, resolved my issues. Fortunately, the battery remains in good condition…Once more, it is evident that this could be an independent concern, yet I encountered the same issue that resolved on its own…I have previously experienced a similar situation when a window was left slightly ajar while the vehicle remained stationary for approximately two to three weeks…I am uncertain as to why, but it likely influenced the alarm or something similar.The electrical system of the Mondeo appears to exhibit erratic behaviour with minimal provocation…I apologise for not being able to assist further, and I wish you the best in your endeavours...

I appreciate your response.I used the key from the rear of the key fob to open the car yesterday (hoping the alarm doesn't go off) and put the battery on charge. The battery has always been good. I fully charged it on Tuesday nite and drove it yesterday. I will try this when I get home from work.Next, if it starts charging, bring it in for a diagnostic 🤷🫎.

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It might be anything at all. I would only be making educated guesses at this point if I couldn't see and test things. Our neighbour had a Mk3 Focus that was totally dead, just like yours, but we managed to get it started. Now is the time of year when dead batteries really start to cause problems, so that's where my initial thoughts are. What is the battery's age? Is its condition something you've had checked? Like I said before, I would just be speculating about the possible cause of the issue. A correct diagnosis is required. When it came to the light switch, how did you figure out that it was the culprit? Again, I can't be at the car to see the condition or connect a diagnostic device to scan all the modules, so I can only speculate based on your description of the symptoms, particularly after turning off the power.

Hi there.I just had a light switch malfunction two days ago.The lights would remain on indefinitely.A new one was ordered.I turned off the power.I was still able to drive during the day, even though the car kept flashing its lights every 10 seconds.Overnight, I fully charged the battery.It appears the car has gone into shutdown mode; there is no longer any flashing, and I was unable to test start today before work with either of the electrical fob keys.Immediate assistance required.How can I get into the vehicle? Would the alarm go off if I gain access? Unfortunately, I have to leave for work now, and I am really stuck for what to do.I've placed an order for an additional component.

It appears that most people agree that later models use cheaper materials. I didn't have any issues with any of the trims on my 2017 Evoque, so it's likely that they are trying to cut costs.