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The dashboard's fill level indicator is occasionally unreliable and requires rebooting with a diagnostic equipment.

I do not either, to be honest. It is conceivable that it may be possible.

Thank you for the advice.

I am reluctant to confess my ignorance. Can anyone provide guidance?

I would perform a complete recharge and subsequently assess the range. I advise utilising an Adblue pump at a service station instead of a bottle, which may result in spillage. The pumps include an automated shutoff mechanism.

Is it feasible to submerge the tank?

May I request your guidance regarding the Ablue range? One week post its second service, my 2023 C220d displayed a warning indicating a remaining AdBlue range of 450 miles. My initial thought was that the Mercedes-Benz main dealer had not replenished the standard 10 litres, despite the notation on the documentation. The dealer's response indicated that they had replenished it, suggesting a potential sensor issue, specifically referencing the NOx sensor. The vehicle was scheduled for a follow-up appointment; however, due to an impending long journey, I deemed it wise to add extra maintenance myself. The range has promptly expanded by 1000 kilometres. My inquiry is if, if the vehicle experienced a NOx sensor malfunction, it would not display a fault message instead of a range warning. I believe the Dealer is attempting to deceive me - what are your opinions? Warmest Regards

I understand your perspective and your justified caution. My perspective is that a car valued at over £60,000 is unlikely to be test-driven by seventeen-year-olds, though I may be mistaken. According to TDudette, the running nowadays is not really necessary. Only a genuine M automobile need a break-in time, as the other models have not undergone the modifications by the M division.

I understand your perspective and your justified caution. My perspective is that a car valued at over £60,000 is unlikely to be test-driven by seventeen-year-olds, though I may be mistaken. According to TDudette, the running nowadays is not really necessary. Is it advisable to perform an oil change following the break-in period?

I understand your perspective and your justified caution. My perspective is that a car valued at over £60,000 is unlikely to be test-driven by seventeen-year-olds, though I may be mistaken. According to TDudette, the running nowadays is not really necessary.

I would advise caution; nevertheless, certain engines do not require extensive break-in periods, or at least not for prolonged durations. I cannot recall all the specifics, so please conduct some research on the topic.I understand that my engine (S55) requires the essential RIS, yet I have also heard that it is not imperative.

Registered in September 2025, this highly desirable vehicle is equipped with nearly every optional feature and is listed for £61,000 at a prominent BMW dealership. It has completed approximately 1400 miles, and I have been informed that it will reach up to 1500 kilometres upon delivery to me. I am apprehensive regarding the adequacy of the break-in period for this car over the 1500 kilometres and the probability that it has been subjected to excessive use, as is typical with demonstrator vehicles. My comprehension, together with BMW's guideline for the initial 1200 miles, indicates that the break-in phase is critical and may affect the vehicle's longevity if beyond. Can anyone, particularly BMW personnel, provide insight on whether it is feasible that it has been abused? Is this offer excessively advantageous to be credible?

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This presents the most recent figure for A642 092 03 01.

Thank you; it indeed appears peculiar. I previously enquired here and was provided with the original part number. If anyone is able to dig up the part number, my VIN is WDD2074032F073442. It appears peculiar that I would acquire an aftermarket component rather than a genuine Mercedes product.

The aftermarket units accommodate the heater element component that can be unscrewed from the original equipment manufacturer unit. F026402103 is equivalent to Bosch Mahle. The part number of the aforementioned unit is KL490D. The referenced part numbers are A642 092 03 01, A642 090 2052, A642 090 1752, and A642 090 1852.

All the photographs I have located of the part number you reference as the "original p/n," A6510901652, exhibit the identical pipe configuration and electrical connections as the part you have acquired (A6510902852), which is expected as the latter is a supersession of the former. Consequently, I assert that the fuel filter for your engine is neither an A6510901652 nor an A6510902852; therefore, you will require an individual with access to the relevant systems to ascertain the correct filter part number based on your vehicle's VIN.

My husband is performing maintenance on my automobile for the first time. Having acquired the Mercedes part numbers and procured the components, he is currently engaged in the task. However, the gasoline filter is incompatible, as indicated by the photograph. The Merc component you observe is part number A6510902852, which I have learnt supersedes the earlier part number A6510901652. We were unable to locate that part number for purchasing, therefore we acquired the superseded version. The electrical connection is not identical. I contacted Newcastle Merc on eBay, providing my VIN to acquire one of their service kits, but they have not responded. Therefore, procuring the components independently. Have I accurately acquired the exact part number, or is the superseded information misleading? He has disengaged the clamps and can observe "MAH," concluding that it is an MAHLE unit. The service history indicates that this has not been altered since it was modified by Mercedes in 2014 at 17,000 km. Please assist me.

Thank you very much.

Greetings, Once everything is secured and tightened in the service position at 40 degrees TDC, the timing is finalised. Once the timing is accurately established and secured at the service position, namely at 40 degrees TDC, the vehicle can be initiated from any position; it is not necessary for it to be at 40 degrees to commence operation. To ensure piece of mind, I typically rotate the tools many times to confirm they return to the service position, allowing for an assessment of any slack in the timing chain. Upon initiating the vehicle for the first time, I also engage and disengage the ignition momentarily several times to facilitate the buildup of oil pressure and enhance oil circulation. Additionally, refrain from revving the engine; allow the idle to stabilise autonomously. Please provide several photographs. 👍

Greetings, I have successfully done the task. I utilised the timing tool, ensuring that the timing remains accurate as the cams and other components were secured. Now that I have completed the assembly, my sole inquiry is the appropriate position of the crank for starting the vehicle. The service position was at 40°; I presume it should be at 0° to initiate the vehicle?

This position necessitates a considerable understanding, particularly about temporal configuration. I strongly advise reviewing Tasos' videos numerous times before to attempting. The crank pulley must be positioned at 40 degrees, and the piston in cylinder 1 (bank 1) should be at its apex; this is the initial step to confirm that the cylinder is at its top dead centre (TDC). To determine when cylinder 1 is at its highest position, remove the spark plug and carefully insert a clean rod through the spark plug hole to measure the distance. The timing tools simplify the task by eliminating all uncertainty. Simply affix the tools, which will secure all components in position from the camshafts and assist in aligning the phasers. If you are somewhat inexperienced and have not undertaken this task previously, I strongly recommend entrusting the job to a respected mechanic for your piece of mind. I have a friend who made a mistake and subsequently damaged valves. This video about timing is excellent.

should be able to assist, having recently completed this task on his M156