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Identifying the best engine for your needs Those vehicles must have 642 horsepower if you're comparing them. If we now compare the 204 to the 651, and the 211 to the 646, we can see that the 211 is an even better vehicle. An easy-out EGR, no DPF, and no AdBlu. Gets more than 50 mpg with ease. I can't make up my mind whether to sell the Viano (651 model) or the S211 (646 model). I think it would be reliable to run the 211 for a while. However, my heart is arguing because it's retro.

Energy drink or petrol? For the C-Class, 2014 was a new model year. While W205 will be used for later models, W204 will be used for earlier ones. The W204 and W205 gas-powered vehicles shared the same M274 engine, but the W205 had a 2.0-liter tank instead of 1.6-liters. This diesel vehicle switched from CDI (ULEZ charge applies but no AdBlue) to d (ULEZ charge applies but no AdBlue) mode. You should verify if the vehicle is E220CDI (no AdBlue) or E220d (AdBlue) since the W212 runs until 2016 and also got the AdBlue version of the OM651 in 2014. Unfortunately, the E220 petrol is likely to use the less-than-ideal M271 engine.

Two disclaimers: professional cab drivers from all over the globe can attest that covering 300,000 miles in an E is simple and inexpensive. Furthermore, Madame Cholet has a preference for more compact vehicles, such as the C class, because she rarely sees passengers in the rear.

I would gladly take another W211 class over an S204 C class since I have already taken both of them. Much more pleasant, and occasionally a better alternative, if three people need to ride in the back. The C class is fine in its own right, but the E is the superior all-arounder.

That is a valid concern. Would consider both options, though upper management may occasionally insist on having three in the back.

Make sure the subframe is in good shape when the vehicle is this old.

Do you have a specific body type in mind? If so, I can help you out. The E coupe is a high-quality C-class model.

Also, it depends on my budget and the cars that are currently on sale.

Having driven both, I can say without a doubt that the E-Class has the more roomy and, on the whole, better interior. However, a 2014 C Class is not a vehicle I am familiar with.

If you have any ideas about C and E classes that are for sale, starting in 2014 and going up to around 6K to 8K, please share them with me because I need to change cars. It would be great if it was close to Preston, but I might ask a member to have a look first.

When I try to enter my vehicle identification number (VIN) in the format it appears on my title, it says that number does not exist.

You still haven't mentioned the model. Your 'garage' in your profile will be visible below all posts, so there's no need to update it.

That's something I can handle. I recognise that sound as well. The site advised me to start a new thread instead of reviving an old one, so I went back to this post that I made months—if not years—ago. I'm currently motivated to install a splitter on my car.

Have a look at Partsouq; they typically have fairly detailed exploded views. No longer can you skip entering your VIN.

My car's front bumper is missing a piece, and I can't seem to find it. This is the small splitter that was originally attached to the base of the front bumper. I was reversing when I caught it on a high kerb, yanking off the aftermarket splitter and sending it flying forward. I'm trying to find a replacement part for my car by looking at the parts breakdown, but the prices range from thirty euros to five hundred. I fail to comprehend. Prior to placing the shattered component in the recycling bin, I neglected to consider checking it for damage. Both the image and its location remain elusive to me. The closest Renault garage wanted €750 for a brand new front bumper, and they wouldn't sell me anything else. Just the small piece under the surface will do. I need someone's assistance identifying this item.

If I were you, I'd swap out the cable. The usual explanation.

It's the right cable; I've exhausted all other options. I have attempted unpairing the cable, turning off VPN on my phone, and nothing has helped me connect using the Apple cable.

Could you please try pairing your phone again after unpairing it?

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide; I'm utilising a data cable to connect my 2020 150d to the system, but when I do, the info screen does not display CarPlay.

It is possible for the brake drying feature to malfunction, in which case it applies more brake pressure than intended and fails to produce any detectable trace when scanned. It seems like the DSC module could be at fault if you can observe if it only happens when the wipers are turned on. Three different repair choices 1, get a new DSC 2. have the old one repaired third, have a code brake dry out expert (with knowledge of mapping, etc.)

I am truly grateful for the guidance you have given me. My only option, aside from taking it to a garage, is to not have ISTA or know anyone who does. The diagnostics performed by German Auto Center did not reveal any error codes. It can go weeks without occurring, and when it does, it lasts for only approximately thirty seconds due to how intermittent it is. I'm concerned that I might wind up paying a garage an hourly fee to attempt to catch it, and there's no assurance that it will happen during their testing. Equally unsettling is the idea of starting to replace components based on pure speculation. Based on your expertise, what do you think would be the best course of action for me to take next? How can I keep track of the necessary data without paying for expensive road testing? Is there anything in particular you think a BMW expert should look at? In particular if you were unable to obtain fault codes, I would be very curious to hear about your experience in resolving this issue if you have encountered it before. Thank you once more! 😊

The same thing happened to my F32 420i N20, too. No, that is not the brake drying performance. You hardly notice when that one brushes against the pads. The brief power cut that you're describing is actually the vehicle's brakes. On N20, one of these three things happens almost every time: 1. The Classic N20 problem is causing HPFP to begin failing. You experience a split-second cut when it becomes unable to maintain steady cruise pressure. Do not enter any codes until the situation worsens. Using ISTA, verify the readings of your low pressure fuel sensor while you're on the road. Your ignition coils and spark plugs are due for replacement at 76,000 miles. A weak coil will misfire for one combustion cycle under light load at highway speeds, and the DME will cut power to protect the cat. It occurs at such a rapid pace that no code is recorded. See if it follows by switching the coils around the cylinders. 3. Wastegate actuator / charge pipe – A small boost leak won't be noticeable until you're cruising steadily at 60 to 70 mph. Upon detecting boost deviation, the DME briefly cuts throttle. With the wipers turned on, which means it's raining or cold, I'd be surprised if it wasn't the ignition. A cracked coil boot can arc if moisture gets inside. Carry out this task: While you're behind the wheel, have someone record HPFP pressure and misfires using Bimmerlink or ISTA. As soon as it occurs, I wager you will notice a drop in pressure or a misfire count. Put the pieces aside. Record it initially. Please inform me of your findings; I am an expert on N20 gremlins, haha. 💪🏻😊

We've had the car for five years, and this has never happened before. Do you think it would be noticeable?

It has to do with maintaining dry brake pads when driving in rainy weather. I would say it's typical. Just look it up on Google.

Yeah, that's right. Whether it's a coincidence or not, we've never had this happen on dry trips. However, it usually rains right when it does, so they're on. Whether it's weather-related or not, I can say with certainty that it hasn't happened when it's been dry. Are you not aware of the solution? 😁 Much obliged for your prompt reply!