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Go check out Tayna.co.uk; these folks provide excellent service and delivery at reasonable rates. In my opinion, it's best to invest in a high-quality battery that won't let you down for a few years. These days' cars have a lot of electrical demands, and you never know when it might be cold outside. Fitting yourself is a breeze with the help of the community here.

Hi🤑

My 2011 Cooper non-turbo requires a replacement battery. In order to avoid using stopstart, I would gladly purchase a "non stopstart" battery if it would save me a few pounds. Could someone please tell me where to look for a cheap battery or suggest one? Is it possible for me to code the new batteries onto the car on my own, or will I need to take it to the mechanic again? Please, I am based in the UK, and as much as I love my car, it costs an absolute fortune.

Costs of materials, labour, and value-added tax!

It was undoubtedly the brake switch; nonetheless, he charged £70. Thanks everyone; the problem is now resolved.

About £20 for the brake light switch

The dual output brake light switch, found on certain models, may partially malfunction. The brake lights will still function, but there may be additional issues like the ones you're experiencing. Pull the plug.

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Hello everyone An error message reading "ESP inoperative see owner manual" and "Run flat indicator inoperative" appeared on the dashboard yesterday morning, shortly after a short distance of driving. I tried bringing the car to a complete stop, but it wouldn't come up until I pressed the brake a couple of times. I'm still confused about what to do next. Also tried the 'run flat tire process' with no luck; turning the ignition key from off to on worked, but it didn't fix the problem either. Talked to my regular garage guy, and he scheduled an appointment for me to come in after four hours, giving me plenty of time. I took it to a mechanic, and he suggested trying increasing the tyre pressure to see if it helped. I did that, but the problem persisted. took it to a different repair shop, where the technician ran diagnostic tests and discovered errors related to the CAN bus, rear sensors, brake switch, and other systems. After he asked me to take it for a spin, he attempted to clear everything. After a brief test drive, the ESP error reappeared. The technician double-checked everything and cleared all the codes, but the brake switch still wouldn't clear itself. I didn't understand how the switch could be the problem, even though the brake light would come on when I pressed the brake. So, he decided to flip the switch for the brakes and watch what happened. Despite everything, every time I press the brake, the light turns on without a hitch; it's not intermittent in the least. His inability to decipher the "brake switch" code was evident. The brake lights are functioning properly, and according to what I could find online, the brake switch only has two wires—no additional control wires—so it's either on or off. How, then, could this be a problem with the "brake switch"? Much obliged.

Yes, I also. Even though I'm not as invested as I once was, surpassing the EPA's efficiency standards is still a thrill for me. This summer, I drove 2,500 miles in my 2026 Model X and got 271 Wh/mile, which is lower than the 274 Wh/mile that is rated. The following is a warning that winter is on the way; I find trend analysis very interesting. An excellent data slice from the third-party data tracker Teslafi is this. In the coldest weather, my 2026 model Y's efficiency is reduced by half due to the use of the heater and my winter tires, which reduce efficiency even more.

I've only ever dabbled in gamifying efficiency for a short time out of pure curiosity. Instead of focusing on efficiency, I prefer to "just drive" in a way that is comfortable and safe. Electricity is significantly less expensive per mile than petrol, so I wouldn't be interested even if I charged at home (which I never do because I use free public charging). Efficiency isn't important to me because my services are provided at no cost. However, due to the detrimental impact on fuel economy, I would never use the remote start feature when driving petrol vehicles. Idling the engine to heat or cool the cabin was a mental burden, even though it wasn't a financial hardship, because it reduced fuel economy on the trip computer.

As for me, I also like efficiency challenges. The extent to which one's driving habits impact electric vehicle usage is fascinating. I'm curious to know what your average is after spending a whole winter in New York.

Oh, my!For the most part, I stick to FSD (sloth profile) and make an effort to take back roads whenever possible

For the sake of enjoyment, of course. Please don't feel obligated to drive at 50 mph on the highway and risk having irate drivers swerve past you; I simply wanted to remove that warning.

Money is not a problem because I charge from the comfort of my own home. Of course, the methods vary, but they all have one thing in common: they aim to lower energy consumption, be it gas or electricity. Maximising my vehicle's efficiency is something I take pleasure in doing.

Good for you if it's fun for you, but if you're trying to save money on charging, you should know that charging at home is far less expensive than buying gas, so you might be sacrificing convenience for a few pennies. I bring this up because switching to electric vehicles requires you to break some habits related to gas cars.

That is quite excellent. To optimise efficiency in the Model 3, maintain a velocity between 20 and 30 mph. Therefore, adhere to secondary roads if that is your objective.

During my time with my internal combustion engine vehicle, I occupied myself (within limits) by striving for optimal fuel efficiency. I performed admirably, achieving an average of 17% above EPA estimates over the 95,000 miles I drove the vehicle. I currently possess a 2026 M3 with a premium extended range. In a similar vein, I endeavour to operate my vehicle with maximum efficiency. I am interested in understanding my standing relative to others who possess a Model 3. I recognise that numerous variables are at play; nonetheless, it would be intriguing to ascertain. I reside in upstate New York, slightly north of Albany, and during the last 200 miles, my average consumption was 186.8 Wh/mi. Based on the online resources I reviewed, that constitutes excellent performance. How do the remaining individuals among you measure up?

I verified the earth connection to the negative terminal of the battery, which is a short, thick black lead barely 8 inches in length. I took off the paint and reattached the body connection under the hood to the painted bodywork connection. There was also no change. I heard that electrical gremlins often originate in the gearbox earth in these fiestas; I should probably find out more about it. Hopefully, I will verify the PIDs and other values over the weekend.

By connecting the ohmmeter to the earth connection and the negative terminal of the battery, you can test the main earth. If the earth isn't good, the module or component that earths through that point should experience a voltage drop. You should verify the air conditioner's reported and demanded temperatures by checking the forscan PIDs.

It has been said that problems with the electrics can arise from a corroded gearbox earth. When this happens, resistance increases and amps decrease, causing various components to either shut off or operate outside of their amperage range. As a result, the ECU will recalibrate them. In any case, I'll have to lift it up so I can check this out. In addition, I should rerun Forscan and give it another look when I have a chance, maybe over the weekend, when I next deal with this.

I appreciate the comments. Valid points to investigate further. The air conditioning controls are listed below. The air conditioner turns on and off without a hitch, and I even turned it to the coldest setting; however, after a three to five minute period, it returns to blasting out heat.

Instead of using the dials, I assume you have the digital climate control, is that right? If the air conditioner isn't turned on, what happens? For example, if you turn it to cold, will it go back to full hot after a while? The car could be fooled into thinking it's colder than it actually is—it could be the stepper motor controlling the valve or the sensors. You are right that we should look into using Forscan, which should display the car's estimated temperature, the user's selected temperature, and the control motor's output (and module voltage). Hopefully, this will help you identify the source of the problem.

The aforementioned details are greatly appreciated. I need to get Forscan back on the Fiesta by going through this step by step. Many of the codes probably belong to an earlier era and don't represent the infotainment system. When turned on, the air conditioner maintains a comfortable temperature of approximately 20 degrees Celsius and continues to run for three to five minutes before suddenly blasting out hot, fully heated air at full speed, completely ignoring the controls. What happens next is that it remains unchanged indefinitely. And I'll have to turn it off afterward. This is a peculiar circumstance. It might have lost pressure, as previously agreed.

The fact that we aren't sure if these are connected problems or if they are merely coincidental makes it all the more difficult. First, you should see if voltage spikes or drops are the culprit. Check the battery voltage as reported by BCM, IPC, FCIM, and APIM (if you have SYNC infotainment) with Forscan PID live date. Assuming the engine is turned on, this should result in a voltage drop of no more than 1 volt relative to the battery reading and definitely more than 12 volts. Not being able to convey any kind of message to them would also be indicative. Stunning, fault codes in every area To resolve the error code, you can remove it and then check if the problem persists. It might be a leftover from the last time the battery was changed. Forscan has DTCs that you can click on to see when the code was last seen; perhaps it corresponds to the time the battery was disconnected. Another option would be to reset the modules I listed earlier and see if it resolves the issue or clears the error messages. For the sake of simplicity in diagnosis, let's pretend for the time being that these things are unrelated. Problem with the air con So, what's the deal with the air conditioner? Is it that the air conditioner is on the chilly side, and then it's as if you removed it, rendering the "warm" air no different from a cold heater setting in its absence? Alternatively, does it get hot, as if the thermostat were slightly flipped to the hot setting? Is it like the air conditioner actually turns off when you turn the switch off, or does the car act as though it's still on even though it's not? Given that the radio issue did not exist and that the air conditioner was turned on but failed to cool after a few minutes, it would be more probable that there is an electrical or mechanical problem with the air conditioner circuit. Was the refrigerant pressure checked or topped up recently? After the air conditioner has been running for a while, does the fan turn on? Is the compressor clutch stuck in the "on" position? It might be shutting off the compressor if the pressure was low, the compressor was knackered, or the system couldn't lose the heat buildup. Entertainment problem Is there anything visible on the infotainment screen? Is it just that the button that activates the radio and all the other features isn't functioning? If the volume knob were the only component that went wrong and the device stopped turning on, it would appear as though the knob is bust. Have you tried scanning live data for the on/off, vol up/down, and other buttons in forscan? I'm not sure if the data is routed through BCM or not, and I don't have a fiesta anymore, so I can't test. If the forscan doesn't update when you press the knob, it could be a faulty part. However, I'm willing to bet that Ford only sells the entire unit, so you'll have to settle for buying it secondhand. It would be strange because things didn't go from working to failed; they went from working to not-working-as-well to sort-of-failed. However, you can check the fuses (see owner's manual etc.). There is no "dodgy connection" when using a fuse because fuses are obviously on or off. No middle ground here; fuses are either fine or blown.