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Best regards, buddy

Having fitted vrsf, forge, and mishimoto before, I can tell you that they are all pretty much the same; let pricing be your guiding factor. I have also completed the boost pipe from the other side of the intercooler all the way to the turbo, but the most important one is the charge pipe that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body. Although the charge pipe is easier to change, this one is more complicated.

Thanks, man! I figured the M division would find a way to accommodate them in the plant if they were really influential. Thank you for the information about the boost pipe. Do you know where I can acquire one? I will investigate it.

They don't accomplish anything except make induction noise, so I wouldn't squander my money on one. Instead of the regular air box and paper filter, I would expect to see them in M cars if they delivered any sort of performance boost. The plastic boost pipes, particularly those that attach to the throttle body, are prone to failure; I've replaced multiple of them due to spring clip failure and blowoffs, therefore I would recommend upgrading your N55's boost pipes instead.

He never used it, but I bought his 2016 M135i nevertheless. My M135i already has a stage 1 remap and an upgraded exhaust, but I'm looking to do some DIY upgrades. I'm starting small, having the wheels refurbed and switching to black badges, but I'm hoping to add an induction kit soon. Has anyone here installed one? I'd love to hear your thoughts and advice on whether or not it's worth it.

Even though I've never used one before, I picked myself one of those sticky string kits because my son raved about it while stationed in Kenya. After a few uses, my pump is operating properly; the readings on my pressure gauge are very close to each other.

From the wheel store, I purchased a spacesaver wheel and jacking system for £89. A new tyre will be necessary if you insert that foam.For what it's worth

Good point, and I hope it's common courtesy; I did it when I scheduled it in, and I'll do it again when I drop it off.

After trying to fix the tyre with muck, make sure to inform the garage. They never seem to approve of workers getting covered in the stuff.

This might potentially be a problem.

My Kia pump doesn't even have a functioning gauge. Remains at zero. It would be wise for me to discuss it with Kia.

Yesterday I got a flat tyre and the warning system worked great. I followed the directions to a T for using the onboard repair kit. Even though the tyre was obviously still inflating, my primary worry was that the compressor gauge stopped rising at 20 psi. After switching to my own pump, I noticed that the tyre pressure was higher than 40 psi, which is obviously not ideal. The tyre had the sealant poured into it, but after a long drive, it didn't seem to have made any difference. This afternoon, I will change the tyre and, later on, I will explain the reason for the puncture, since it may be pertinent.

Mine was functioning when I parked the car, but it has since stopped responding, so I'm hoping it's not the vp44. When I think back on this difficulty from many years ago, I recall that we had to tow the automobile in order to start it, but I believe that was due to the fact that we didn't have alternative methods. For some reason, the only thing that comes to mind is to give it a quick spray of brake cleaner or easy star for a couple of seconds.

After removing one injector and adjusting the metal fuel line to suspend it over the engine, I made sure that no fuel was spewing out of the other injectors. The VP44 connector's ground and power are functional, as I verified. First, air got into the system when the injectors were disconnected. Second, VP44 could be malfunctioning. Third, the immobiliser could be preventing it. The VP44's unexpected failure coincides with the injector removal; therefore, tomorrow I will attempt to bleed the gasoline lines once more, since I do not comprehend why it would do so.

I don't understand why the immobiliser would activate, but it sounds like gasoline starvation. Perhaps other error codes could be revealed by a more comprehensive scanner. I experienced a VP-44 failure myself; I parked the car, returned to it 30 minutes later, and it still wouldn't start.

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Greetings, everybody! I own a VP44 fuel pump-equipped E46 320d, which is a pre-facelift model. Now that I fixed the leaky washers at the base of my injectors, I am unable to start the engine. 😎 It will turn over, but it will not start. 1) I have primed the pump under the seat for 40 seconds many times and verified that it is functioning. 2) The clear gasoline tubes that go from the fuel filter to the VP44 pump do not appear to have any air bubbles. 3) At the injectors, I have loosened the nuts to bleed the high-pressure fuel lines. Clear fuel streams out to a height of about 5 cm, with the exception of the injector nearest the front of the car, which seems slightly weaker. 4) I sprayed starting fluid into the intake and got the engine to start, but the initial start was rough and white smoke billowed from the tailpipe. Although there was less smoke and less force during the other starts, the engine still makes a loud knocking noise when started with starting fluid. 5. BMW Scanner 1.4 displays a flawless result. So now I'm confused. I accidentally disconnected the red battery line in the engine compartment before removing the battery in the boot, so I'm wondering if the immobiliser is preventing the fuel pump from operating. Can the immobiliser be verified or circumvented in any way? After this, what am I to do? Many thanks

Very much appreciated; I've already placed an order for one.

Standard 17mm sockets, especially older ones, might damage the "flower" heads of those lug bolts. We have specialised sockets.

I apologise, but I'm mistaken.

Turn off pedantic mode!

They are bolts, not studs, therefore pedantry mode is on. Mercedes often prefers to employ the far more finicky method of bolts, however these are the studs that wheel nuts go into.

Additionally, I would prefer that the wheels remain unaltered, as my luck would have it, that is, if it is even possible.

No, I just placed an order for brand new locking nuts—the kind with the chrome caps—for my studs.