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Regarding the ABS problem, I'm not sure what to tell you, but according to a reliable search engine, the following are the most common causes of the "EPS/ESP" and "ABS" lights on a Kia Venga: a broken ABS tone ring, a malfunctioning wheel speed sensor, or a problem with the battery voltage. all three Motives Commonly A malfunctioning wheel speed sensor monitors the rate of rotation of each wheel. When either of these systems fails, the other will also shut down: the stability and anti-lock brakes. 1 and 2 Damaged Anti-Lock Brake System Ring: Instead of a magnetic strip, the Kia Venga has a real metal target ring on the driveshaft. The sensor may receive inaccurate readings if these rings shatter with time. [1] Power Outage or Need to Charge Cause: A malfunctioning alternator or low battery voltage can cause a plethora of dashboard warning lights to illuminate simultaneously.

There used to be a lot of knowledgeable people on this forum, but the Venga is a great automobile for older adults like my wife and me who have arthritis. Simply said, our advanced age is causing our extinction.

Because a back voltage is a common symptom of a blown fuse or a jammed or gone-of-control relay in Kia electrice, you might want to check those first. It seems like the anti-lock brake system relied on a toothed wheel—which might easily get jammed or rusted—to detect the wheels' speeds.

Does no one have any advice to offer?

Greetings everyone, Please, I need some guidance and assistance. The ABS and ESP lights went off. The osr sensor was identified by my diagnostic scanner. Nevertheless, Google recommended disconnecting After checking the voltage at the wall outlet, the sensor indicated that 11.5 volts should be present. I measured 2.5 volts. I followed the advice on Google and checked the ABS connector beneath the glove box; it read 2.5v as well. According to Google, this might be because AB's unit is malfunctioning or the module plug is rusted. After removing the plug, I checked for rust. I double-checked the power in the same locations as my wife's car and found that it had 11.5v, just as Google had predicted. First thing I want to know is if you think there is an issue with the ABS module. A pre-owned one has been requested as a substitute. 2nd question: can I simply plug in the module without the brake line to test if the light remains off after resetting it? to hear everyone's opinions on the matter. I appreciate it.

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He has previously assured me that there is only one possible outcome once I brought this up with him. Thank you

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=wheel+bearings&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181132&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X67a785136684fc646b034c973de8ba14&subId2=15

Fitting the wheel bearing the wrong way around could cause this problem because some of them have the ABS ring built in on one side.

I'll forward this link to my friend first thing in the morning.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W203/BRAKES-ABS_Sensor_Replacement/BRAKES-ABS_Sensor_Replacement.htm

Someone has probably messed with the abs wheel speed toothed ring or the sensor that measures it. Follow this link to get a detailed walkthrough of replacing a sensor, complete with plenty of high-quality images to help you identify each step. A fault light will go out if it's even slightly misaligned.

Salutations, all.I'm having trouble with my C200 W203. Someone changed the front wheel bearings, but now the ESP and ABS warning lights won't go away. Any suggestions? I've been without my girlfriend for about two weeks, and it's driving me insane!

Otherwise, get a new automobile and throw it away if you really care about the environment. Environmentalists and politicians find it more convincing since, despite being just eleven years old, its production used resources that would have been depleted over millions of years.

Holy cow, that vehicle is gassing out! Mine seemed terrible to me! Just like mentioned earlier, once everything is cleared out, it will feel like a rocket. And yes, definitely map out the EGR and purchase an EGR removal kit. It makes a huge impact.

I appreciate your reply. We cleaned it out because we thought it was necessary.

It will feel like a rocket ship after cleaning. My number one piece of advice is to use two gloves. Horrifying stuff, but at least it's simpler to get out of the inlet than your skin!

That is typical, however unwelcome. The EGR system is responsible for this. To avoid future clogs, I had BWChiptune map out the EGR function, changed the swirl flap gasket (seen below), and cleaned mine out.

While replacing the split water flange on my 2015 320d, my son had to disassemble the intake system. Appearances to be coated with oil. Is this typical, and if not, how can I handle it?Much obliged.

I appreciate all of the feedback. Performing all of the arms seems to be the most practical choice. Despite the fact that the man using his "speciality tool" makes it appear so easy in the video up top — enticing.

I have replaced all eight arms on my S203 twice. The first time, I had access to a full engineering workshop, but I still decided to replace the whole arm. Only with the right press tool can you change the main bushings while the car is still on the ground; otherwise, you'll have to remove the arm(s) from the vehicle. 'The juice aint' worth the squeeze, in my opinion. Invest in high-quality products; I recommend Lemforder because I had to redo this work on my car because I couldn't get my hands on it in time the first time. Perhaps this video will be of assistance.

Cracks in the suspension arms are an ever-present possibility. It seems like the front arms are aluminium and the control arm is cast iron.