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After I warmed them up, they were nearly transparent. It's annoying, but it's condensation, not a leak.

Since it's implausible that two bulbs would undergo that at the same time, it casts doubt on my theory of a clogged breather system.

You can't tell the two camps apart.

I was wondering whether there was some sort of breather device built in to let out any trapped water vapour. What makes these lights identical? A thorough STAR diagnosis is required to determine the source of the ILS not working message; nevertheless, considering the quantity of condensation, it is highly probable that the levelling motor has failed. I wish you the best of luck with the solution.

My 2017 SL lights are giving me the creeps due to the dampness. The weather (cold!), but maybe not quite. Although it began in the corners, the haze has now spread across the majority of the lights. I read several notes on this and thought that maybe turning on the fan heater to warm the lights will help. At first, I thought I had it figured out, but as soon as I turn off the heat, the condensation returns. I suppose water evaporates to petrol when heated, but it doesn't necessarily go out of the light. Is it absorbing additional moisture as it cools down again? Worse worse, I have just received a notice stating that my "intelligent" lighting is malfunctioning. 🤔 The installation, which involves removing the front bumper, doesn't appear to be easy, but I saw that there are second-hand units available for around £350. My fingers are crossed that this will go away once the weather warms up, since it might be a summer/winter phenomenon. Views, pls 👍🏻

I will keep it in mind for the next time; I feel like it was probably just a false lock. Is that to say that I was successful in releasing the crank bolt upon startup? It is appreciated.

Will not make contact with valves when cam locks are engaged and camshafts are at an angle where valves are not open sufficiently to touch. By default, when you lock the crank, you should attempt to turn it in both directions. If it only turns in one way, it's about 180 degrees out of whack; a false lock occurs when the crank catches on a ridge on the flywheel.

The dowel slid into the hole with a satisfying thunk, so I'm very sure it's in there now; I appreciate your response. I didn't feel any resistance or contact with anything, so I'm hoping no valves were hit.

You can only insert the dowel pin into one of the flywheel's holes. You should be good to go if you lock the cams and insert the flywheel pin so that the small handle almost touches the bellhousing. To secure the 18mm socket wrench in place, give it a little wiggle, but be careful not to apply any force. You can tell when the flywheel pin is in a recess rather than a hole because the small handle on the pin is far from touching the surface of the bellhousing. When the flywheel pin is placed, there is one way to turn the crank such that all of the pistons are even. While trying to locate top dead again, I hope you didn't bing any valves.

Excuse me, As I work on the timing chain, I would appreciate any guidance. The cams are locked, so I removed everything—which I mistakenly believed was the crank—and left the car for a few days to wait for the kit to come. I was going to tighten the crank bolt today when the crank suddenly spun as I began the initial torque! I either failed to lock the crank properly or accidentally knocked it at some point, so the cams remained locked and never moved. I'm confused about my next move. Now that I've locked it correctly again and the pistons are all the same height, how can I make sure the time is right and I'm not spinning out of control? Thank you once more.

My only regret is that no one has ever tinkered with my wiring, and I hope it will never happen. Even though I'll be installing extra cables for some of my gear and making my own unique ISO harness for the radio power, I will never cut or damage the car's original wiring. After I install anything, it will be easy to remove it, so the automobile will remain unaltered. In order to install the loudspeakers, I only need to procure new trim panels to cover the areas on either side of the back seats.

That kind of provenance, in my opinion, is meaningless in these kinds of cases. A property developer was the only owner of the 129 we purchased in 2003; the property had a complete history. I uncovered the remains of two car phones and a radar detector concealed behind different panels of trim. It seems like they're the type of folks who simply bring their car to have x installed or removed without considering the process. If it functions properly, then it won't be noticed.

I appreciate the responses. Based on what we can see, the vehicle is completely stock. My present SL and another were housed in a stable block by the former owner, a woman who owned a fleet of cars and used one every other year. A major dealer has always taken care of maintenance before that. Thanks to the car's long history of dry storage, the wiring and speakers are in excellent shape, and I haven't noticed any modifications to them. On one side of the center console is a dealer-fit Nokia phone cradle; it's well-made and matches the interior's right blue hue, so I plan to preserve it. After taking another look under the dashboard, I noticed a fused link for the phone along with its microphone and antenna wires. Additionally, there is a tiny multi-pin socket with two brown wires that connect to one terminal on the main harness. The radio's ISO ports and the Sony multichanger's connectors are also listed. It is possible that the multi-pin socket is to blame as it appears to be unplugged. The car's radio and CD player stopped working shortly after I picked it up from the auction; I subsequently discovered that the aerial had been detached and that the autochanger still had 10 CDs inside. If I can find a speaker output on the Becker amplifier, I may be able to short the two wires together using the multi-prong adapter. Given that I already have a spare radio, two Kenwood component speakers, and a variety of wiring and connectors, I don't see the need in going to any more lengths to acquire music. I keep the hard top in the rear of the garage, but I doubt I'll ever use it since I only use the car during the summer. The Alfa Romeo Spider, which I had been driving for a while but was finding increasingly difficult to enter and exit as I became older, was replaced by the SL. The Kenwood radio/CD/multichanger in the car worked fine; it appeared to be more user-friendly.

Two of the ISO connectors on my R129 are the standard 8-pole varieties (one for power and the other for speakers), and there's a third, 10-pole one that came from the memory that I assume supplied power to the optional amplifier—which, to be honest, isn't in my vehicle. Even though my car only has four wires connected to the 8-pole ISO speaker connector, the VIN decoder—which I have used a few times—suggests that it has rear speakers. In this thread you can find various images of these connectors. There are two tweeters in the dash, a larger (bass) speaker, and a smaller (midrange) speaker on the R129 front doors. Being on my second R129, I can say that the original speakers are mediocre at best. I replaced them with JBL units of the same size in my previous vehicle and am planning to do the same in my current one. The car's factory stereo was a Sony cassette player with a few shaky functions; I'm replacing it with a higher-quality CD player, which doesn't have any built-in amplifier. I plan to install my digital signal processor and multi-channel amplifier in the trunk, with the original speakers mounted on the sides of the back seats and a passive subwoofer on the luggage shelf—which forms when the back seats fold down—that can be easily removed if more room is required for luggage. It seems like someone may have tampered with the wiring in your car, since the front door speakers and dash tweeters are connected in parallel. I'll be installing a 6-1/2" bass only unit in the lower door positions and 4" dual concentric units in the upper door position, also wired in parallel. My previous car had 5-1/2" dual concentrics in the rear, but this time I'll be using a 5-1/2" component system with the bass unit in the same spot and surface-mounted tweeters higher up for better sound dispersion. I'll post pictures of these in my thread once I have better lighting. Typically, the speaker outputs on the main radio are where the Becker amplifiers are connected. When I acquired my W140, it was already equipped with the original Blaupunkt unit and a factory amplifier in the boot.

"How long is a piece of string?" in its purest form, I'm afraid. Who can say for sure what the 25–30 years of prior owners have done? A number of things could be wrong, including faulty or broken wiring, an amp channel that isn't working, or the radio's configuration. Anyone competent enough to run a wiring loom directly from the head unit to the doors should also be able to figure out what's wrong with the current setup and implement the necessary bypass.

Hello, I own a Sony radio that came with my SL280 R129, however it only works with the tweeters. The issue persisted when I tested a different model of the same brand of radio. I have a build sheet from MB, and the car came with speakers but no radio when it was new. There are standard ISO connections in the dashboard, and there is a Sony 10 CD autochanger in the trunk mounted on a factory bracket; nonetheless, the same issue persists: there are no primary speakers. It has been suggested that a Becker amplifier, which is located beneath the passenger side of the back seat and appears to be in excellent working order when plugged in, could be the source of the issue. Is erasing this even possible? Because they are more modern and have features like bluetooth and aux, aftermarket radios are more than adequate for my purposes. Thanks for any advice or suggestions.

😅

Haha, I hope you're referring to the cars.

I had an E92 LCI for five years, but the weather in the UK made me too chicken to ride it roof down. A bunch of young men from Eastern Europe run a barbershop, and there are a couple of black E93s parked outside. They continue to look beautiful every time I pass by.

Appointed my E93 I enjoy frittering away money for no good reason.

It might be wise to give them a call. They were incredibly helpful, and their knowledge and experience were spot on.

Thank you for responding so quickly. I will also check with Cayman Autos, as my MB technician recommended them. It is appreciated.

https://caymanautos.co.uk/

Because they are labour-intensive and frequently necessitate expert-level understanding, convertible roof repairs are notoriously costly. Even though I doubt these guys will be able to fix your SLK roof, I can speak from experience when I say that they are worth considering: