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Where would you suggest I put this?

curiosity, but because not everyone comes here to say hello, it's usually best to enquire at the proper place.

If it's like the later X5, removing the arch liner and access panels will give you better access. In my opinion, it's practically feasible to keep turbo in there.

My 2012 X5 40d is experiencing problems with the turbo. After testing the vacuum lines and solenoids, the problem of the malfunctioning turbo charger vacuum box was identified as the source of the engine code 4530 that the ECU had been sending. It was determined that the vacuum box was the source of the issue after conducting a test with a vacuum pump. Vacuum did not hold. The hoover box is in an inconveniently situated area of the engine, so I'd be very appreciative if any users could point me in the right direction for replacing it. It has been mentioned to me that in order to access the linkage connections, it may be necessary to remove the little turbo. I would like to try to replace it on my own, so any advise would be helpful. I am grateful.

Latest news: I followed Gemini's instructions after copying and pasting this message, and I was able to identify the problems with both loom connectors. I fixed them, and now it works! The parking sensors are working. Much obliged for the time you've taken.

Drive gently ahead while pressing the parking button. The parking graphic, not the rearview camera, should appear. There are a number of distance lines on each sensor. It might be useful in locating the problem. The bumper wire loom can be the problem if everything else fails. They seem to have been off lately because the plug is so easy to stretch. Also, the module that detects parking. There are threads regarding this on the forum; personally, I've never taken the panel off the boot and looked under the fuse boxes, but that's where I suppose it is.

Does the whole sensor array have its own fuse?

Hi there, My search did not yield any results when I tried this site. So, this is the piece. 2012 Ford Mustang GT premium. Regarding the procedure, I perused the comments included in the service manual. There will be a short, three-second warning sound when you start the engine. When the parking sensors aren't working, there's no indication on the dashboard. As soon as I shift into reverse, the dash parking sensor switch light starts flashing. The module will be able to communicate with my scanner. The eight error messages that point to malfunctioning parking sensors are visible to me. Always all eight. They reappear the second after I scan them to remove them. From B1B36-14, we get the numbers 38–52. I would want to enquire about previous encounters with this particular issue and potential solutions before I begin to investigate the wiring of each sensor. Also, have you ever noticed that these modules need to be reinserted or reprogrammed? The aftermarket scanner I'm using isn't powerful enough to handle that task. Any advice would be much appreciated. All the best with your time!

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These are the front indicator fuses. The blown fuses are replaced with new headlamp components. Appreciate your assistance

It was in my 2010 model, but it was in the jack. I had already printed off a copy from the internet when I discovered it!

I suppose MB no longer places the folded printed fuse legend in the small slot next to the fuses here? I suppose in an effort to cut costs. When did that finish? That was in my S203 C class back in 2006. A once-great "tool" that is definitely long gone 😞

If you believe ChatGPT: Circuits are powered by fuse 74 (15A) to: control unit for KEYLESS-GO A unit for the right front light Ballast module for the left front of the vehicle DC/AC converter

Good day. Is anyone here familiar with the function of this fuse? The 74th fuse in my e63 keeps blowing, and I have no idea why. While researching diesel vehicles online, I was unable to find any information on E63 petrol vehicles with the fuel pump relay responding. Much obliged.

Thank you everyone. I have reset the device, however the problem still persists after a few of days. Parking and then returning to the car within ten to fifteen minutes also resets it. That seems to be my sole option for avoiding garage costs; I will share my findings here for future reference and, perhaps, to assist others; in the meanwhile, I am grateful.

Did you try the gearbox reset? If not, seek for it.

The gearbox gearbox is faulty; the car won't shift into drive or reverse. After turning off the engine for 10 minutes and starting it again, it acts as if it has reset and starts driving. This continues until the next time I stop, at which point it fails again. I repeat the process. Is anyone else experiencing this issue? Do you happen to know the solution? 🙂

On my behalf, Blackvue.

You can have dash cams that combine the front and back cameras into one, but the downside is that the back camera could get blocked by things like seats, passengers, or even the rearview mirror (depending on where you are).

https://ttw-installations.co.uk/

I also prefer Blackvue. There is usually a method to mount a rear-facing dash cam on a soft top. You could get in touch with TTW in your area; they're top-notch; I saw you're in Nottingham.

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