All Activity

Under Tesla's warranty, I had the steering column replaced not long ago. For months, I endured the groaning, grinding, and vibrating sound. I searched through other threads concerning same concerns, but it appeared as though I was simply the unfortunate one. That I refrained from attempting any sort of "repair" speaks volumes. The temperature within the automobile and the surrounding weather had no effect on the occurrence of this noise. The replacement process took only a few hours, and the Service Advisor seemed to have prior knowledge of the problem. I am simply posting this to inform you.

They removed the handbrake shoes from the 5 series with the E6x model.

Perhaps the worst design ever—the handbrake shoes—are worth taking a peek at.

Same as before, in my opinion. Even though it's tough to spin the back tires, you should jack it up and give it a shot while listening for any noise or rumbling.

A wheel's bearings bearing?

Howdy, pal! It was that is why I had them changed.

Before the work was done, there was a noise that sounded like fresh discs.

Salutations everyone, So far, no one at two different local repair shops has been able to pinpoint the source of the terrible noise emanating from the back driver side wheel. Even when weighted, it cannot be reproduced on a ramp. Brand new discs and pads. Lots of people have looked at it, and nothing seems to fit. Not to the point of disassembling it to reach the drive shaft, but I believe all other options were exhausted. I was wondering if anyone experienced this problem and might offer some advice.

Make sure the EGR isn't jamming before proceeding.

Constant stalling and terrible gas mileage were just two of the several problems with our 1994 E280. Forgot to clean the MAF. Everything is back to normal now that I bought a Pierburg MAF from AutoDoc for around 160€. Besides spending forty euros on two new engine mounts, this is the finest improvement you can make to this vehicle. Some online discussions have made the case that the Pierburg MAF is an improved and far less expensive alternative to the original. That is something I am not qualified to say anything about. We also conducted a smoke test, and the results were encouraging. Hope everything works out.

In most cases, air mass faults will result in an air leak. Before you start throwing components at it, make sure the intake is smoke tested.

Salutations everyone, 2016 Bluetec W212 (S212 family) waggon. Every few weeks, you can see the engine management light and limp mode turning on. Fault code: mass air flow. The little copper sensor had a lot of black carbon deposits, so I removed it and cleaned it with MAF cleaner. After that, I used the OBD scanner to clear the error. After then, everything was OK for a while, but it eventually returned to its previous state of malfunction. I immediately went into limp mode after installing an aftermarket sensor. I hastily reinstalled the previous one. When I accelerate quickly, the engine management light and limp mode appear. Extra miles on the highway. almost 220,000. Have you any idea? Who makes the EGR/DPF/Turbo/MAF sensors? I'm merely a passionate novice. Having owned it since new and diligently attended to all repairs and maintenance, I am hoping to keep it running. It has been well-maintained and has no other issues. I am looking for some experienced advice.

😉😉😉

https://pleuurfen.top/products.aspx?cname=kia+sedona+serpentine+belt&url=https://changestamworth.com/index.php

Consider taking a look here as well.

https://partsouq.com/

How is it? alternatively look for a VIN-based diagram

Truthfully, this is the greatest place to enquire. As the emphasis shifted to the state.

I was unsuccessful when using Google.

Thanks for the 2012 Sedona 6-cylinder.

Can you find it using Google? We will require the engine size and year of production.

Could someone please point me in the correct way? I have searched everywhere, including in the owner's manual. Incredibly grateful.

😇

Pleased to meet you