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Indeed, you have initiated progress! As I mentioned, acquiring quality wiring diagrams is essential, although they are more difficult to obtain in the present day. The subsequent steps will involve verifying continuity and voltages, which is somewhat time-consuming. It is advisable to inspect the passenger side in the same manner as the driver's side, as the CAN bus also operates on that side. If it fails, it will affect the entire system. I shall continue to contemplate.

Beneath the carpet on the driver's side? That is one location I have not examined. I only presumed that all processes concluded at the FRM.

To my recollection, there exists a splice beneath the carpet where multiple bus line cables converge, which was susceptible to moisture problems.

I have disassembled the connector within the door and removed the door card. I have examined the wiring from the switch pack plug to the frm, and all the wires appear to be in satisfactory condition. No rusting whatsoever. While it is possible that there may be some damaged wires at some point, I am truly struggling to locate them!

Hello, I have encountered similar issues previously. I must assert that the switch packs on E90 models are often quite reliable, therefore I personally doubt that this is the reason. CAN bus systems are quite problematic, as they are dispersed throughout the vehicle and are easily disrupted by moisture. Begin by disconnecting the harness from the driver's door; there is an 8mm bolt on the vehicle's body side, after which you may detach and unplug the multi-plug. Inspect for moisture, visible corrosion, etc. If it is a connectivity issue, a thorough cleaning and manipulation may suffice. If acceptable, I will likely examine the harness behind the door panel. To proceed correctly, a wiring diagram is essential; nonetheless, these prevalent concerns may suffice! Best of luck

I am contemplating this; but, I prefer not to expend the funds without unequivocally verifying that this is the problem. I purchased an inexpensive imitation on Amazon for approximately £10, and it did not resolve the problem. I may require an additional OEM unit. However, my lord, these demons, gremlins, and magical wizards are indeed resisting vigorously.

It appears you have conducted comprehensive diagnostics, commendable effort. The FRM's functionality indicates that the switchpack is either nonfunctional or that a problem on the LIN line is disrupting communication. I would tend to suspect a defective switchpack, particularly given that the LIN problems persist even when disconnected. It is hoped that an individual who has confronted this specific E93 issue can provide a conclusive solution. Best of luck, and please keep us informed.

I have been contending with challenges lately, and these challenges have manifested as wires. The master window switchpack of my E93 has become inoperative, and I am unable to determine the cause. Here is a comprehensive account of my completed tasks to date. Context The former owner brought it to a repair shop. They identified a "failed switchpack" but did not replace it. I have subsequently replaced and recoded the FRM independently. Only modified the VIN and UIF information. The interior lights are functioning correctly; however, the window issue remains unresolved. What Effectively Functions All four windows function flawlessly from: The button for the convertible roof My scanner and diagnostics The FRM can manoeuvre all the windows effortlessly. Malfunction Codes 9CBA – LIN operator unit disrupted 9CC4 – Disruption in passenger mirror LIN 9CC3 – Disruption in driver mirror LIN These remain unchanged regardless of whether the switchpack is connected or disconnected. Electrical Inspections The power and ground at the switchpack are accurate. 12V on Pin 6 (Red/Green). Ground connection on Pin 5 (Brown). LIN bus is located on Pin 4 (White/Brown). The presence of 12V and ground at their respective locations indicates that the problem does not lie between the FRM and the switchpack for those circuits. LIN also attains the switchpack plug at approximately 9-10 volts. Unusual Ground Behaviour The door is open; the ground measures approximately 40Ω to the metal in the fuse box. Door closed: resistance decreases to approximately 3Ω. With a jumper: 1.5 ohms. Enhancing the grounding did not restore functionality to the switchpack. Additional Remarks All fuses are functioning properly. No apparent damage in the door loom. The mirrors are also inoperative due to the switchpack, which is logical as they utilise the same LIN line. My Current Location The FRM can operate all functions, however the switchpack lacks bidirectional communication. LIN errors persist even when the switchpack is disconnected. All indications suggest either: An inferior switchpack, Or something upstream on the LIN line is impeding communication. I welcome any insights from those who have encountered this specific demon previously. I appreciate your assistance in advance.

Eleven slender.

For ten thousand pounds

Acquire a new battery from MB.

Regrettably, any substitute will likely endure only half as long as the original

No coding is required; please ensure the area is cleaned. I have not yet completed mine, but I will maintain power to the jump start spots as I possess my brother's old battery and some jump leads. Particularly as I do not possess the auxiliary battery in the trunk, having completely removed and sold it years ago to permanently disable Stop Start.

Indeed, it is not required for that vintage.

I do not perceive a necessity for any extraordinary actions about the vehicle from that year, to be honest. I possessed a W212 of the same model year, and it was a direct exchange.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-S5A11-battery-technology-vehicles/dp/B00PUDPLOC

I trust that all are in good health. I seek counsel with the following matters, please. My 2013 W204 C220d Estate retains its original battery (see to the image below), which has exhibited difficulties throughout the recent cold weather. Following my study, I acquired a replacement: a Bosch S5A11. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-S5A11-battery-technology-vehicles/dp/B00PUDPLOC Nonetheless, I have encountered information suggesting that the new battery must be programmed to the vehicle, while other sources assert that this is unnecessary. Can anyone confirm the accurate procedure for battery replacement? Additionally, if coding is unnecessary, are there any precautions I should consider when replacing the battery? I intend to clean the battery compartment before installing the new battery, but I will refrain from doing so if a longer disconnection could lead to complications. Thank you in advance for any responses.

I intend to purchase an RS5 in approximately six months. I aspire to locate one in purple.

Merlin Purple B8.5 Audi RS5s exist, although they are exceedingly rare.

You may allocate between $2,000 and $5,000 for a wrap.

Wrap is a viable alternative. Is the cost approximately £2,000 for the wrap?

Alternatively, encase it.

Purple has never constituted a conventional colour. However, if you own sufficient funds and are prepared to allocate them, you may select any colour of your preference.

During which years were purple RS5s sold?