All Activity

If I were you, I'd swap out the cable. The usual explanation.

It's the right cable; I've exhausted all other options. I have attempted unpairing the cable, turning off VPN on my phone, and nothing has helped me connect using the Apple cable.

Could you please try pairing your phone again after unpairing it?

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide; I'm utilising a data cable to connect my 2020 150d to the system, but when I do, the info screen does not display CarPlay.

It is possible for the brake drying feature to malfunction, in which case it applies more brake pressure than intended and fails to produce any detectable trace when scanned. It seems like the DSC module could be at fault if you can observe if it only happens when the wipers are turned on. Three different repair choices 1, get a new DSC 2. have the old one repaired third, have a code brake dry out expert (with knowledge of mapping, etc.)

I am truly grateful for the guidance you have given me. My only option, aside from taking it to a garage, is to not have ISTA or know anyone who does. The diagnostics performed by German Auto Center did not reveal any error codes. It can go weeks without occurring, and when it does, it lasts for only approximately thirty seconds due to how intermittent it is. I'm concerned that I might wind up paying a garage an hourly fee to attempt to catch it, and there's no assurance that it will happen during their testing. Equally unsettling is the idea of starting to replace components based on pure speculation. Based on your expertise, what do you think would be the best course of action for me to take next? How can I keep track of the necessary data without paying for expensive road testing? Is there anything in particular you think a BMW expert should look at? In particular if you were unable to obtain fault codes, I would be very curious to hear about your experience in resolving this issue if you have encountered it before. Thank you once more! 😊

The same thing happened to my F32 420i N20, too. No, that is not the brake drying performance. You hardly notice when that one brushes against the pads. The brief power cut that you're describing is actually the vehicle's brakes. On N20, one of these three things happens almost every time: 1. The Classic N20 problem is causing HPFP to begin failing. You experience a split-second cut when it becomes unable to maintain steady cruise pressure. Do not enter any codes until the situation worsens. Using ISTA, verify the readings of your low pressure fuel sensor while you're on the road. Your ignition coils and spark plugs are due for replacement at 76,000 miles. A weak coil will misfire for one combustion cycle under light load at highway speeds, and the DME will cut power to protect the cat. It occurs at such a rapid pace that no code is recorded. See if it follows by switching the coils around the cylinders. 3. Wastegate actuator / charge pipe – A small boost leak won't be noticeable until you're cruising steadily at 60 to 70 mph. Upon detecting boost deviation, the DME briefly cuts throttle. With the wipers turned on, which means it's raining or cold, I'd be surprised if it wasn't the ignition. A cracked coil boot can arc if moisture gets inside. Carry out this task: While you're behind the wheel, have someone record HPFP pressure and misfires using Bimmerlink or ISTA. As soon as it occurs, I wager you will notice a drop in pressure or a misfire count. Put the pieces aside. Record it initially. Please inform me of your findings; I am an expert on N20 gremlins, haha. 💪🏻😊

We've had the car for five years, and this has never happened before. Do you think it would be noticeable?

It has to do with maintaining dry brake pads when driving in rainy weather. I would say it's typical. Just look it up on Google.

Yeah, that's right. Whether it's a coincidence or not, we've never had this happen on dry trips. However, it usually rains right when it does, so they're on. Whether it's weather-related or not, I can say with certainty that it hasn't happened when it's been dry. Are you not aware of the solution? 😁 Much obliged for your prompt reply!

It probably goes hand-in-hand with using the windscreen wipers, right?

Hello everyone! I was hoping someone could give me some advice based on their experience with a BMW. My BMW 420i Gran Coupe is a 2014–2017 model with 76,806 miles and a manual gearbox. I've been driving steadily at 60-70 mph on the highway when all of a sudden the power goes out for about half a second. Then it comes back on and drives normally, which is a really strange and intermittent problem. There has been no slow dwindling of strength. For that brief instant, it's as if the vehicle becomes unresponsive. At that second, the speed won't increase no matter how firmly I plant my foot on the floor; then, out of nowhere, the power returns. To try and find a pattern or rule anything out, I've experimented with various gears, driving modes (Comfort, Sport, and Eco Pro), and cruise control, but it doesn't make a difference. Up until this point, it has only happened to me on long car rides, and it seems to happen at random. The fact that it happens so randomly is the most annoying aspect. It occurred again on Saturday after the previous occurrence about a month ago. The ECU is not displaying any error codes, warning lights, or discernible pattern. German Auto Center has since performed a comprehensive diagnostic and health check on the vehicle that I had scheduled. There are no error codes to guide them, and they still haven't discovered anything wrong with the vehicle. Even with real-time data, it's very challenging to diagnose events that occur half a second apart, let alone weeks apart. Not knowing what's causing it makes it seem like a needle in a haystack, and I'd rather not start spending money on replacing parts. Is anyone else's BMW 420i or other petrol 4 Series dealing with something similar? Were you ever able to determine the root cause and the method of diagnosis? I would love to hear from anyone who, while driving on the highway, briefly lost power without any lights or codes coming on, and what the solution was. Even though it's brief, the fact that it occurs at high speeds on the highway makes it all the more worrisome because of the danger it could pose. I would be eternally grateful for any help or insight you could provide. I'm crossing my fingers that someone will be able to identify these symptoms and give me some advice. I am grateful.

🤩

Apologies, I only just saw the dateline!

Verify all exposed wires for signs of damage or potential rodent infestation.

BTW, the mileage is 109k.

Thank you in advance for your assistance. There was no drama, noise, vibration, or smells when the engine stopped, and I was doing around 60mph. Keeps the temperature from rising too high. Everything is in order with the oil and water levels. Ten minutes prior to this, the battery had no problems starting up. When I tried to turn it back on, it made the same clicking sound as a dead battery. The AA arrived just as the machine was about to be jumped; it was turning extremely slowly and drawing a massive current.Before, there were no problems with the vehicle's operation. Whether starting from a cold start or any other time, the cam chain makes absolutely no noise. In order to prevent the alternator, air compressor, steering pump, pulleys, and compressor from seizing, I intend to remove the serpentine belt as suggested. I am not an expert on Mercedes vehicles, but I am a good mechanic. If this were the case, I would have detected burning or screeching sounds coming from the belt. Even though I don't know much about the stop-start system, my suspicion is that the starter is faulty; however, I fail to understand how a faulty starter could ever cause the engine to stop running. I haven't been too concerned that the car's stop-start system has never worked. I coasted a little after applying a lot of pressure, and the only time I realised the engine had stopped was when I pressed the accelerator and saw no revs; there was no power loss. There was absolutely no indication of anything, and I have experienced catastrophic engine failure on multiple occasions. It abruptly ceased. There were no applicable codes when I used my merc-specific code reader on it. a handful pertaining to the instrument cluster's communication, but I fail to perceive any connection between the two. Absolutely nothing to do with engine timing or camshafts I would greatly appreciate it if someone with more direct experience in this area could provide some feedback and suggestions for fixing the problem.Although I am familiar with cars in general, I don't know much about this particular model. I will try to remove the belt, but it seems like a pain, so I think other checks would be better to do first. It has seized, and that is my worst nightmare. I am grateful.

To prevent the HV system from activating, it is adequate to disconnect the 12V in the engine compartment for this task. The boot battery is unnecessary for this operation. Fluid Parameters Metric Quantity Origin Aisin specification AW-2 (Extremely Low Viscosity)French Car Forum threads 75816 and 83830; DS Forums thread 1084. PSA component number 16 350 560 80 Reddit r/peugeot (reddit.com/r/peugeot/comments/1daxu73/) Overall capacity approximately 6.5 litres Per-drain capacity approximately 2.5–3 litres (one PHEV proprietor: 2.75 litres) Peugeot Forums t=377797 Per cycle replenishment 3–4 litres (subject to variation by source)Peugeot Discussion Boards t=377797 (3 L); French Automobile Forum t=83830 (4 L) Cycles required: 2–3 t=341056 (3×3 L); French Automobile Forum t=86678 (3 evacuations) Compatible aftermarket options include Ravenol ATF T-ULV and Liqui Moly Top Tec 1850. Refrain from utilising AW-1 / JWS 3324 (EAT6 fluid).French Automobile Forum t=75816

2. Safety protocols for high-voltage (HV) systems The e-EAT8 features an 81 kW electric motor embedded within the gearbox casing (as verified by Peugeot Australia: "The PureTech engine is paired with the e-EAT8 8-speed automatic gearbox"). Orange high-voltage cables extend from the battery located beneath the rear seat, traversing the engine compartment to the motor and gearbox. For a drain-and-refill, you operate beneath the vehicle, distanced from high-voltage components. Nonetheless: Refrain from handling, relocating, or detaching any orange cables or connectors. If it is necessary to detach the airbox to access the fill plug, proceed with caution around the orange wiring harness. Detach the 12V battery located in the engine compartment prior to commencement. According to InfiniteV (AU), it is crucial to deactivate the electric vehicle prior to engaging with high voltage components. This entails detaching the 12-volt or auxiliary power supply. According to the NSW Rural Fire Service EV protocol, "Detaching the 12V battery will deactivate certain systems/functions. Permit a duration of up to 10 minutes for the high voltage system to release electrical energy. Wait 5–10 minutes after disconnecting before working underneath. 3. Two 12V batteries The 508 PHEV has two 12V batteries: one in the engine bay (main, EFB) and one in the boot (auxiliary).

⚠ Safety and Mode Concerns Specific to PHEVs 1. Halt the vehicle's operation in electric vehicle mode. The 508 PHEV operates in electric mode at reduced speeds, resulting in the internal combustion engine (and consequently the gearbox) being disengaged — gear cycling and proper oil warming are not possible. Instructions for execution: On the mode selector (dashboard), choose Sports mode. Engage eSave → MAX (conserves all electrical energy, compelling the engine to operate). The Peugeot 508 manual (servicebox.peugeot.com) states: "The eSave feature allows for the reservation of all or a portion of the electrical energy… choose the amount of electrical energy to reserve: 10 km, 20 km, or the entirety of the electrical energy (MAX).

Comprehensive e-EAT8 Oil Change Protocol – 2018 Peugeot 508 PHEV (including references, all incorporated)

A useful suggestion: ensure that the fill plug can be removed prior to draining any fluid from the gearbox.

The procedure for levelling. The gearbox lacks a dipstick. The vehicle must be positioned horizontally - even a minor incline alters the volume by several tenths of a litre. While the engine operates, the selector is shifted through R, N, and D (approximately 5 seconds each), and the fluid temperature is observed using the diagnostic instrument. At 63 ± 3 °C, the level plug is extracted: when the fluid is at the appropriate level, it flows out in a slender stream and subsequently drips - this is the moment the plug is reinserted. If nothing depletes, liquid is introduced until it commences to circulate. Certain e-EAT8 variants incorporate an additional step in the process - consult the documentation for the specific gearbox type. A cold level that has been verified is nearly always inaccurate. I discovered this and merely require the additional step for the e-eat8 gearbox; if anyone has encountered information regarding it.

That is what I sought, thank you. I possess access to my family's garage equipped with all necessary diagnostic instruments; however, as this is my inaugural plug-in hybrid electric vehicle, I am curious about the impact of the motors.

The Phev 508's gearbox incorporates an electric motor. The potential for electric shock complicates the proper procedures for oil replacement.