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Yes, I did that when I was chasing an oil pressure problem on a CAVD; if I could locate it, I could give it to you for the postage cost! To test it, remove the switch and place it where it will be at its lowest point; an M10x1 adapter is required. From a diagnostic standpoint, there is no feedback other than the switch. But the VVT bore tests I did weren't helpful either. After removing the engine to its bare blocks, skimming the deck, and having an engineer inspect and polish the crank, I rebuilt the engine with a new head and all new parts, but I never found out what was wrong. The only parts that were reused were the block, rods, crank, sump, and chain cover; all other parts were new. Despite Plastigauge checking the crank, the oil pressure remained low. That disaster cost me about £25,000, but in the end I got a real VW exchange engine. At 2000 RPM and oil temperature of 80°C, the book oil pressure at the head test port is 2 Bar, but that is far too low; you should see 3 BAR.

Thank you for your response. I have tested two separate solutions, and they both yielded the same outcome. As I watched the scantool, my next move would have been to fabricate a plug to fit into the VVT valve's opening, either to take oil pressure from there or to apply external oil pressure. Anyone given this a go? What is the lowest oil pressure at which issues become noticeable?

Since replacing the VVT valve is simple and inexpensive, I would do that first. However, if that doesn't work, the problem may lie with the oil pressure, which is preventing the VVT hub from moving properly.

So here I am, at a crossroads. I came in with a hole in my block after spending some time on this golf. Using a BLG cylinder head, I completely rebuilt after discovering a CAV block. A little hesitancy during takeoff, a failure code of P000A for a slow camshaft, and the use of the CAV timing cover and oil feed pipe were necessary. The engine started easily without rattles or oil pressure lights. Whenever I check the live data while it's idle, it remains at 20°. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have.

t doesn't matter what you use, just make sure your problem is resolved quickly.

In comparison to Claude from Anthropic, copilot sometimes says it can do something but then stops with an explanation it cannot continue, whereas Claude simply does it and then suggests ways to make it better.

I put it to good use quite frequently.

I rely on Copilot frequently, but it's important to stay alert and not blindly follow its suggestions because it frequently makes mistakes. When you challenge it, it will eventually respond by acknowledging its mistake, apologising, or doing something similar to make things right. It is, without a doubt, a very helpful tool.

I am now part of a company that uses SharePoint and has a corporate licence. It makes sorting through massive amounts of data much easier.

Copilot is an integral part of my new laptop, so I use it quite a bit for work. It remembers everything I type, which can be scary at times, but it saves time when analysing big documents for mistakes or inconsistencies that could indicate fraudulent documents. For fun and personal matters, I use a different provider. Lately, it has been great for retirement planning and using AI to test my own data, plans, and forecasts. Either way, it's great at quickly analysing complex data, but you need to have a good idea of what the results should look like because errors are common; I have to tweak the results several times to verify the data.

https://rd.skimresources.com/?id=2518X1570512&isjs=1&jv=15.11.2&sref=https%3A%2F

It seemed like my Range Rover was acting up. I had to buy a replacement USB entertainment module because the first one broke, and I still haven't figured out how to remove it. I consulted Copilot after a long period of searching; I wasn't expecting much, but it requested an image of the module and proceeded to instruct me on what to do immediately after. It took about a minute, but it was spot on. Disconnect the three plugs on the unit. These days, in order to remove an electrical plug from an automobile, one must locate the tab that is normally pressed down to release the plug. The first two were not too difficult, but I am at a loss as to how to proceed with the third. Done it all. I posed the question to Copilot and uploaded a photo after taking pictures of the plug's front and back. It recognised the plug as a Range Rover and provided instructions on how to remove it. It worked perfectly, and it only took ten seconds. The new module has been inserted and replaced. Thank you! I was curious about Copilot's reaction, so I said it. It returned a message that seemed like you were chatting with a helpful friend. I can't believe AI has become my best friend:Yes, it is definitely going on my Christmas card list. You should try using Copilot if you ever find yourself stuck.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW turbocharger

Instead of the turbo failing, it might be a boost leak.

When you accelerate beyond 1500 rpm, you'll hear a whoosh sound coming from the vehicle. No power outages or engine problems. No noise is produced when operated in electric mode. Has BWW not yet provided me with a report detailing their findings from the fault investigation?

All petrol vehicles are now electronically controlled, so I highly doubt that any of them have vacuum lines. In reality, what is the problem you're facing?

They eventually split at the ends, just like shown above. Oops, I should have mentioned that in my initial post.

It's absolutely crazy how often cars break down after a recall. Of course, not every problem is related, but seriously, check all of your hoses and vacuum lines.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

That was BMW Group1. I returned it, and they claim it's not their fault. 😩

By the sounds of it, something was left disconnected. Please return the item if the service was performed by a garage.

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-a484af-606711-c3449cd99d-k&k=BMW+turbocharger

After getting the starter motor recall done, has anyone experienced any issues with the turbo? Before, my car was running well. 77K miles on the odometer from regular servicing

Maintain the satisfaction of the regents; my mistake. I keep mine happy with a monthly 15-minute descent down the duel course and 15-minute return. The miller was used to retain the injectors and that side, not as a replacement for regen. Oops, I should have mentioned that.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+DPF