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Doesn't every service work include the replacement of sump bolts according to MB manufacturer policy? Is it a good idea to get new bolts if the old ones seize or peel easily?

It's part of the job, and it can happen to any automobile, old or new. Just ask any technician about seized, rounded, or stripped bolts. They are typically not a problem if you have the correct equipment and knowledge, provided you have at least fair access.

Yes, seized sump nuts are common on older vehicles; I had them on my W202 a number of years ago. Seized bolts are an annoyance, but a good independent specialist or gearbox expert will know better than to avoid them. The technician who worked on my vehicle definitely didn't; he just removed the bolt by applying a small amount of heat to its remaining portion.

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A. W126 420 SEC 1991 There is occasionally a "thump" when I shift gears on my W126 automatic gearbox. The problem persists despite my recent efforts to fix it by changing the oil in the gearbox and torque converter. I thought the box had a suction connection for the engine, so maybe that's the problem. Are there any additional connections made while shifting gears? The mechanics were hesitant to remove a "seized" sump bolt for fear of shearing it off, so they refrained from changing the gearbox's filter. Is it possible that the gear shift issue is due to a clogged filter? Please tell me if anyone else has experienced issues with the bolts that hold the gearbox sump together. The idea of shearing it, drilling it out, and then re-tapping it is obviously terrifying. Much obliged.

Yes, I was considering that as well. I'll place it in S and paddle to fourth for half an hour to observe its behaviour; if it remains after that, who knows?

Good day, I had the same issue for several months. Even after two fuel filter changes, the problem persisted. I believe I finally got things fixed out after a good high-revving highway run. I'm not claiming that the Italian tune-up fixed yours, but it was the deciding factor for me.

About eight months ago, I had the low pressure fuel pump replaced. After doing some research on the old Internet, I was given three potential issues. 1. A Maf indicator The throttle body should be cleaned. 3. The exhaust's oxygen sensor Should I pay attention until a caution triangle appears, at which point I can decipher the code? Would it be simple to clean or make changes to the above? I would want to do it myself if possible. Much obliged.

However, the issue seems to be with the gasoline supply.

When the engine becomes hot, it occurs.

A defective injector caused my first Evoque to have a rough idle until it warmed up. Perhaps comparable?

Greetings everyone, I've been fortunate enough to possess my Evoque 2.2 Sd4 for the past two years; thus far, I've only had to repair the haldex, fuel pump, and passenger door lock. However, today it seems like my good fortune may have finally run out. My issue is that in both forward and backward gears, when I come to a stop at lights, I have harsh idling, where the rev counter decreases and then rises again in a matter of seconds 🤔 There are no lights on the dashboard, and nothing appears on the scanner. I would really appreciate any assistance you can provide. Much obliged.

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In my opinion, an auto locksmith is your best bet.

I made some enquires just in case, so, are you sitting down. 1st kia dealer £434 2nd kia dealer £524

Please accept this as my next cheque.

Be sure to review your insurance policy, since some may have lost important coverage.

It's better than what I was expecting; someone on another thread mentioned £250 when they purchased an EV3 for fun.

get the most accurate quote, call the dealership or car locksmith. I would estimate that programming would cost around £150, according on a quick internet search.

Good day, Indeed, that is a title. A key slipped my fingers. Has anybody else done this and can you give me an approximate quote for a replacement? It seems like, similar to losing a phone, there's no way to track it down. Much obliged.

2013 W212 Facelift E200 automatic petrol engine with 4.7-liter Nexus engine. Thanks to some tweaks I made in the engineering menu, I can now put the screen to black and have it warn me to "watch your surroundings" whenever I put the car in reverse. A CVBS camera and an RCA to Fakra adapter are on my shopping list. While installing my subwoofer, I will verify the configuration. If you have any advice or real words of discouragement, please share the

Oh, so it's wireless? I failed to notice that portion. Now it's really easy, and the Garmin gets its juice from the lighter. Now I understand. That is really cool. The fact that the canbus isn't displaying a problem code isn't surprising, however, considering this is a 2012 E class vehicle with the typical electrical components like lights and wires. My prior MB E class was a 2010 model, and I had no trouble wiring a caravan plug directly with a regular relay. My 2014 E-class Saloon, however, is part of the canbus system, thus things changed after 2013. Still, if you have a little battery in the boot, like mine does, and you can set it to turn on and off with the reversing light LED connection, that should work.

It appears like they used some unique materials for that kit; could someone confirm that? It's hard to believe I didn't find it earlier; it appears to be of high quality. Their website doesn't specify anything about that kit.

Compared to other configurations, this one is really straightforward to comprehend and implement. The Garmin box seems to have some built-in features, however there is no canbus warning or anything like. The only accessories included are the Garmin rear camera parts. You won't need to run any more connections; the video shows you how to deliver wireless data to a Garmin device from behind. Even though the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) method is preferable, this works well as a simple back camera option, therefore I would go for it.

https://www.commandonline.co.uk/Reversing-Camera-Kit-NTG4.5-NTG5-audio20-cars.html