All Activity

Thank you both; I greatly appreciate that, my friend.

🙂

As previously stated by guyskin, it is a cold check that occurs when the vehicle is initially activated, during which it inspects for malfunctioning bulbs. LEDs consume less power, leading the system to erroneously conclude that the bulb has malfunctioned. I deactivated the cold check feature on one of my vehicles using my diagnostic scanner, and there is a setting in the iDrive for the F20 model. Indeed, that is how I organised things in that vehicle.

This is a general code description for headlight bulb malfunction. whether halogen or xenon is installed. The headlight bulbs will require load resistors when transitioning from halogen to LED, as the removed bulbs likely had components to ensure the bulb check system functioned properly.

Greetings to everyone, I possess a 2010 BMW 5 Series, model 520D, F10. I recently replaced my headlight bulbs with new H7 LED bulbs. Bulbs of comparable strength [200W/50000LM/6500K]. Subsequently, I get the following two errors on my dashboard: Left Low-Beam Headlight Malfunction Right Low-Beam Headlight Malfunction Upon examination with an OBD2 reader, I receive: Errors 800F2E/800F2F: Left/Right Low-Beam Headlight, Malfunction or Reignition Failure for Xenon When I activate my light, both errors vanish. Each time I initiate the process, I consistently encounter these errors until I activate the lights. Do you have any insights regarding the errors I am encountering? What is the reason for the mention of "Xenon" in the error? Approximately three weeks ago, while replacing the bulbs, I inadvertently cleaned the connector with Standard WD-40 instead of the appropriate Contact Cleaner. Could this be a rationale?

🙃

Thank you, everyone. I replaced the water pump; but, it was a novice mistake not to replace the thermostat simultaneously. That is my oversight. I will modify it over the weekend. Thank you once more for your prompt assistance; it is greatly appreciated

😇

I concur with br1anuk.

The thermostat is malfunctioning and requires replacement.

Greetings everyone, The temperature gauge of the x5 e53 M54 3.0i does not exceed the first quarter mark; however, when stationary at idle, it rises to the halfway point. While driving, it descends back to the first quarter or around the cold blue mark, and the vehicle emits lukewarm air, however it operates OK. Any assistance or guidance would be much valued. Thank you, everyone.

🙂

https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Inflator-Compressor-Portable-Motorcycles/dp/B0DHL5DNRN

I purchased an item similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Inflator-Compressor-Portable-Motorcycles/dp/B0DHL5DNRN It has functioned effectively for my needs and is somewhat less expensive than the Makita alternative. One can establish the preferred psi and depart. The advantageous aspect is that when inflating four fully flat truck tires, you can interchange batteries to maintain continuous operation. I am not very fond of the combined inflator and jumper tools, as it is improbable that one can jump-start a vehicle and inflate four flat tires on a single battery. Moreover, if the internal battery fails, you will forfeit two functionalities.

I possess Dewalt tools and batteries. I observed that they provide a larger combined jump starter and tyre inflator.

Do you possess power tools? In that case, contemplate acquiring an inflator compatible with their batteries. I possess a device that utilises Makita batteries, and it functions exceptionally well. The price was approximately $35 and it is not manufactured by Makita.

I possess a Sealey cordless tire inflator, a cracking tool, and it includes two batteries and a charger. Additionally, I possess a Noco Boost jump pack, which functions as a torch and includes USB ports for charging devices such as phones.

I no longer possess any all-in-one jump start packs or tyre inflators. Currently, most vehicles are equipped with a Bosch air pump and a CTEK CS FREE. Both are competitively priced on Amazon for Black Friday.

I have been examining battery jump starter units that also provide tyre inflation capabilities. Several options are available on Amazon for approximately £75, after which prices escalate to £200. Do you have any suggestions? I possess a diverse array of vehicles, ranging from my SL to a Fiat Ducati RV, and I seek a singular solution that can accommodate all of them.

No battery alerts have occurred subsequently. However, I will assist this individual as soon as the weather is not very chilly outside. 😂 I opted for the 10A to avoid an 11-hour charging delay.

The battery number on my service sheet is MA001 982 81 08/26, suggesting it is an OEM Varta 80Ah AGM battery; but, it may be from any brand, so I will attempt to inspect it at some point. I believe it will be challenging to make a claim, particularly if it can be sufficiently charged to pass a battery assessment. I can envision them merely recharging it and exclaiming, 'See, it's functioning!' so rendering my trip to NW London, where I no longer reside, futile. There may be a two-year guarantee, potentially less than the manufacturer's, presumably to account for the part number being associated with several vendors.

Thank you, everyone. I believed at the time that the auxiliary capacitor was responsible for the start/stop function (I am uncertain about the specific roles of each component, to be honest), and as I was indifferent to that aspect, I neglected it. 😂 I will examine whether there is any warranty on the battery, which was installed during a service at a dealership. I am uncertain if the service sheet will provide relevant information, but I will explore further. I am unaware of the brand, to be honest, as I have never removed the cover. A typical travel exceeding 45 minutes sufficed to mitigate that warning for several weeks, and this remained true even lately. Recent occurrences of the notice appearing post-drive have led me to suspect a phantom drain. However, it currently appears that battery situation is more probable. The current plan is to get a Noco 5 charger, fully recharge it, and assess its status. The battery may have been defective from the outset. An AGM battery, even under less than ideal conditions, should last longer than 2.5 years.