ianwh4 Posted August 7, 2023 Share Posted August 7, 2023 Here as a newcomer I've been progressively upgrading my work-issued Vito as time and funds permit since I bought it a few months ago. It's a 2013 model with a facelift, 113cdi long wheel base (LWB), manual transmission, and a rather low level of equipment. The installation of heated leather front seats was on my list of things to accomplish. I found a set of Viano leather front seats and, since I was aware that they could be split in half, I swapped them out with my Vito's original driver's seat. I also installed three-stage carbon heated elements and intended to wire in the switches at some point, but then I saw a set of Vito Brabus wheels for sale on eBay. To check out the Brabus alloys and front spoiler, I traveled to Matlock (Derby), where the gent named Jason negotiated an excellent price for me, and where I also bought a few ancillary parts. This gets me back to the subject at hand, since one of them is the original heated seat switches for 3-stage heated components. If I wanted to utilize the OEM switches with the carbon heated elements, would I need to create my own loom or use the loom that came with the elements? Below is a picture of the vehicle that was used by the previous company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy47785 Posted August 7, 2023 Share Posted August 7, 2023 The carbon pieces will function, but I believe the loom is necessary for the switches. What about the truck the toggles came from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clk320x4 Posted August 7, 2023 Share Posted August 7, 2023 If memory serves, the 639 has switches hidden by blanks. You may take out the empty and replace it with the proper covering. If you flip the switch, the light will come on. The dash may be used to get rid of the blank or blanks. Insert narrow scraper down one side, press lid laterally, then pull to remove. You may give it a go and verify my assumptions. That'may' need coding as an output from the SAM because, if I'm correct, it is a canbus signal to the SAM. The'may' require coding is inconsistent with my experience with 639s, whereby all replacement SAMs have been plug and play with full access to all functions. The seat heater output is located at fuse 30 in the under-hood fuse box (F35 rail, bottom left, bottom row, second from right). I have no idea how the voltage to the heaters is regulated as this is a constant output. But I suppose it's within the SAM. Each of the base and back rest heating components in a 2006 Vito registered a resistance of 4.2 ohms. loaded at 2.1 ohms in parallel. Is verifying before installing worthwhile? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt865 Posted August 7, 2023 Share Posted August 7, 2023 Our 2007 Vito only has a 2-stage heated factory driver's seat, but maybe this was improved upon in the redesign. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clk320x4 Posted August 7, 2023 Share Posted August 7, 2023 That's what I was attempting to recall. There will be three phases to our 2014 operations. The system, SAM seems to assume, lowers the voltage after 5 minutes, then again after 20 minutes, and finally keeps it at the low value for as long as the user specifies. I seldom use the low setting since the high one often times out after 5 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt865 Posted August 7, 2023 Share Posted August 7, 2023 Ours too goes from high to low and then settles there. I'm almost certain that the S205's three-stage system entirely shuts off after a specific amount of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clk320x4 Posted August 7, 2023 Share Posted August 7, 2023 I simply compared the 211 to the 639 in the Book of Secrets. 639, 3–2–5 minutes 2-1:10:1 for 10 minutes straight. 211 3-2.5 minutes 2-1:10 Minutes After 20 minutes, turn off. They're both a little different from my original 203. I was mistaken in believing they were equivalent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianwh4 Posted August 7, 2023 Author Share Posted August 7, 2023 I recall reading that the original switch panel already has the necessary switch points; all that needs to be done is to replace the cover with blanks. I decided to take apart the heated switch panel to examine its inner workings and to see whether the Eco switch from my current switch panel would fit. The circuit board seems to be almost complete; unfortunately, it lacks LED indicators for inactive switches, which must be fixed before the Eco switch will function properly. In addition, I've done some research on conventional switch panels on eBay to check whether the connecting pins for heated seats are already in place, and I've found that they are not. In my case, the heated switch panel I bought yesterday already came with the necessary connection and wiring. Only three cables are required to connect the heated seat. Gray Black Inky Black Purple Blood-red and black Since the black and red wires would go to the fused power supply and the other two wires would go to the left and right seats, I'd have one extra wire at each seat's heated elements; is this the - ground? Snapped a few shots of the heated seat plug and switch panel after I took it apart. After unloading the van in the morning, I decided it would be impolite not to document the Brabus goods before heading to the office. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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