EatSuru

Installed a new thermostat housing equipped with new sensors and updated the cabling connected to the sensors. The fan functioned well for a period of time. The fan operates continuously and turns off about five minutes after the system is switched off. Suspecting that the issue lies in the Engine Control Module (ECM)!

The thermostat housing has two sensors responsible for regulating the temperature of the fan.

I failed to specify that the vehicle in question is a 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman. If I remove the sensors on the thermostat housing, the fan will continuously operate without stopping. I am disconnecting the higher plug.

Motor The fan was continuously operating, but after replacing the thermostat housing, the fan no longer activates even when the temperature reaches 108°C. Once again, I have replaced the thermostat housing with a new brand, but it still does not function properly. When I disconnect the harness at the thermostat housing, the fan turns on around 10 seconds later. However, when I reconnect the harness, the fan immediately stops. In addition, the fan fails to activate when the temperature reaches 95°C when the air conditioner is running.

Installed the resistor according to the instructions provided by Alex Crowe. The engine was started without the Inlet port shutdown motor engaged, resulting in the automobile driving for a short while before entering limp mode. Next, I installed the resistor onto the plug by connecting a 4.7kOhm resistor to the two centre connectors. The vehicle operated normally, and after 3-4 restarts, the engine light turned off. As mentioned in other reports, this modification is considered successful and may potentially save you a significant amount of money. Can someone provide information about the location of the swirl motor flaps? How can one determine if the valves on an OM642 engine are in the open or closed position, considering that this may vary between various engines? Thank you.

Has anybody successfully installed a 4.7k Ohm resistor to the connection of their intake port shutdown motor? This resistance deceives the Engine Control Unit (ECU) into believing that the motor is functioning well even when it fails. By doing this, instead of spending a significant amount of money to replace the motor, you may just add a resistor that costs only 5p. When the motor malfunctions, the flap automatically returns to its default open position, unless it is obstructed. To resolve this issue, just install the resistor, and the automobile will operate smoothly. It may also be necessary to remove any error codes. The primary function of the swirl motor, as I have gathered from my research, is to alter the airflow from laminar to turbulent flow. This alteration facilitates combustion by enhancing the mixing of air with fuel. The functioning of this system seems to be nonsensical to me and I find it to be superfluous, since it generates more complications than it is beneficial, in my perspective. I will attempt to do an experiment on my own and observe the outcome. Specifically, I will be focusing on the S320 model.

Here is some maintenance advise on EGR systems from an American truck fleet magazine: https://www.fleetowner.com/running-green/fuel/article/21701173/egr-systems-can-run-cleaner-with-premium-diesel

I get why individuals are dissatisfied with the prospect of black, sooty emissions being reintroduced into the intake manifold and consumed by the injectors. However, I strongly advise against tampering with the EGR system since it plays a crucial role in reducing NOx emissions. Which are detrimental.

I strongly discourage anybody from tampering with the vehicle's emissions control systems, since it is a self-centered and thoughtless act towards others. However, based on my understanding, the act of removing the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system is not explicitly prohibited by law. Refer to the information provided below: https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/technical-guides-and-faqs/is-it-illegal-to-remove-or-disable-your-egr-valve

Thank you, my friend.

a new failure code of 4293 was detected in the internal control unit. I am uncertain about this particular matter.

I will return to the mapper on Wendnesday am, with optimistic expectations.

Hello, my friend. Indeed, component 16 was replaced due to its ability to expel air from the pipe and cause one of the plastic clips to break. To be candid, I mostly substituted the components with the concept of tranquilly. Indeed, the automobile was functioning well before to the map. The code only manifested itself after the map was completed. The mapper suggested that the issue may be attributed to either the map sensor or the pressure converter on that particular side, and subsequently replaced both

The map sensor used was authentic from BMW. The wiring is in excellent condition and has been thoroughly tested. Additionally, the temperature sensor in the return metal pipe has been replaced with an EGR sensor. In which location on the charge intake pipe is the boost sensor located? The only components on the intake side that have been replaced are the boost pipe and the pressure converters. Furthermore, I am contemplating if the code was really included after the map itself.

Greetings, everybody. I am desperate for assistance as I am completely perplexed by the trouble code. The trouble code for the 2006 E90 335D is 41AA. I have been informed that this is the map sensor and grommit. After making the necessary changes, the code clears and then reappears when the system is loaded. The car is equipped with a stage 2 map and an EGR deletion kit, with the vacuum line unplugged and blanked out. Additionally, it has a Wagner intercooler and DPF delete. In recent times, I have made modifications to the turbo side of two pressure converters. Additionally, I have replaced all vacuum hoses with silicone and have acquired a new OEM red boost pipe that is free from any leaks. The passenger side of the pressure converter and electronic valve, as well as the vacuum lines. Silicone Alternative water pump Illuminating plugs and a unit (stress relief) The Maf sensor has been cleaned. I have likely altered the name. Currently, the automobile continues to operate as anticipated, with minimum delay, but sometimes it may seem that there is a slight lack of performance. This code is exhibiting a lack of clarity and is causing significant frustration. Could someone provide assistance about this issue, please?

I purchased my automobile in August. The current distance is 1600 miles. There are currently no services available. A few months ago, I stored the automobile for the winter and want to retrieve it in April. I intended to proceed with the oil change as a service for the "break-in period over" or "car out of storage." While not essential, it is not harmful and provides me with a sense of tranquilly.

I concur with Rashman4u. I have had my vehicle for around 17 months and have only using the integrated Kia Satnav once throughout this period. I often use Google Maps or TomTom on CarPlay.

Please provide more pictures of those wheels.

I own a 2018 c350e estate with 71,000 miles and have received a quotation of €14,000 from the Mercedes-Benz dealer to replace the high-voltage battery. I have purchased a new 12v battery and two speed sensors, but the problem persists. The dealer has identified that the issue is related to insulation in the battery. Has anybody have practical experience with replacing the battery of a vehicle that was first purchased in the UK and then brought to Ireland at 60,000 miles? I have had the automobile for about 12 months. The issue began around 2 weeks ago with a red battery failure indicator and a towing symbol. The car has been towed twice and is now at the dealership. Mercedes-Benz Germany does not have any hybrid batteries in store, therefore it is uncertain how long the car will be there. Their certainty over the provision of a new 6-year/100,000km guarantee on the battery was unclear when I inquired. Seeking guidance, thank you.

If the specification on the back of the bottle is about 229.52 MB, then the answer is yes.

Hello Quicksilver causes a full-body earthquake sensation and might result in hearing loss.

I ultimately located them on partsgeek at a cost of around $50 each unit. Despite my selection of the V10 filter, several vendors resorted to the V8 filter. Replacing it doesn't seem to be difficult. However, I am certain that if I were to have my dealer do the replacement, it would cost more than $500. Therefore, the amount of money I save by doing it myself would cover a significant amount of my fuel expenses.

I own a 2011 V10 Spyder and just went shopping for air filters. Initially, I visited Amazon and acquired the ones specifically intended for my model. However, they turned out to be incorrect. Based on the state of the boxes they were sent in, it seems like they have been previously returned several times, most likely for the same reason. I need filters with an extended end that can fit the sensor, as opposed to the shorter ones that do not have a sensor. Upon doing a thorough search of several internet sellers, it was observed that, except from the K&N brand, all the displayed images depict the same incorrect filter. This morning, I visited the dealer and discovered that they were charging $180 per filter, despite the fact that the same quality filter is available elsewhere for just $20. Furthermore, it would be necessary for them to place an order for the items. In addition to considering purchasing the K&N filter, which I am likely to do, is there a reliable source where I can get the appropriate size OEM filter of high quality without having to pay the fee charged by the dealer? Thank you.

Indeed, this statement applies to any unbranded component.

thank you very much, I will go to the service on Monday