Alex1978

I'll provide an update after I've finished fitting and testing the replacement component I bought and reattached the breathing hose to. Many thanks for your assistance.

Pardon my hasty typing; indeed, it was slick with grease. The pipe was disconnected at the other end.

Yes, here is the latest information. The PCV valve was located, and a replacement has been requested. I also saw that a bottle cap had been taped over the intake and that the breather hose had been disconnected from it. Could this be what sparked such a huge fire? I figured it was the same issue with the turbo since the smoke looked quite similar to what I had seen previously. When I questioned my technician why he had bypassed the PCV prior to installing a catch can, he said that the old turbo had been doused in gasoline. The replacement PCV valve I bought should arrive by midweek, so I've reattached the pipe and removed the bottle cap in preparation. Given how much time I'll be spending stationary, I also purchased a replacement battery. Only keeps power for a day.

My license plate indicates it's for an E90 318d, and Autodoc identifies it as a 2.0 Diesel 143HP/105kW N47 D20 C. Car goo broom broom, I have no mechanical aptitude. others say the PCV is a filter, others say it's a jiggling metal valve piece at the end of a hose, and some say it's in a box at the rear of the engine. I have no idea what I'm looking for. Haha, I really have no idea.

To my ears, it's coming from the direction of the driver. We assumed the turbo was broken, so the technician removed it and reported it was caked with oil. This might have built up over time, however. I lack any aptitude for mechanics. As soon as I get home, I'm going to inspect the intake system. Regarding the PCV, I would be completely clueless.

Hi All, I can't take it any more. Over two years ago, I purchased a BMW 318 from a dealer. It began belching out blue smoke and guzzling oil. When this occurs, its strength is diminished as well. The situation is obviously undesirable. Since I wasn't able to return it, it sat for a time while I looked into buying a used turbo. I installed the turbo, and it continues to operate normally. The engine compartment was ablaze with smoke and guzzling oil. It's not always doing this, but it happens often enough that driving the vehicle is dangerously unpredictable. I am completely at a loss as to where to look next. My technician thinks it may be the oil seals, but changing them would require removing and dismantling the whole engine, which would be time-consuming and costly. Before I go out and spend a ton of money, is there anything else it may be? So much money has been invested in it that selling it for scrap seems like a waste. Any assistance is much appreciated. Thanks.

It appears you have run across the rigid and annoying guarantee system implemented by the VW group. We had a Seat corrosion problem, and the attitude, especially from the dealer, was terrible. Audi UK (which manages customer support for the Volkswagen Group) was marginally more sympathetic, but nothing was done. Since I had no positive experiences with any of the VW group's products, I sold the automobile and have no plans to acquire another one. Throughout the years, the Seat was the least dependable vehicle we've ever had. A series of minor issues (mainly electrical) and some issues with quality control cropped up.

That doesn't seem that high to me. It seems more like 500-1000ml/1000mi was what many were complaining about.

In addition, we have a '59 gas-powered car. The engine uses a camchain instead of a belt, making it significantly more modern. It's a hit with the wife. When functioning properly, it accomplishes almost all of your transportation goals. We purchased it through a franchise dealer and it was around 2.5 years old. Its engine blew out at roughly 30,000 miles, only five miles after we performed its first service. Skoda rebuilt it under warranty, but then it had intermittent sensor problems for a long time. Each required a journey to the dealer, sometimes on a flatbed, and each ended with "we plugged the computer in." It reported no problems, thus we can't make any adjustments. And since there's no problem, Skoda won't cover the inspection. Skoda UK showed little enthusiasm for fixing these issues (although I did get largely positive feedback for resolving the issues) and refused to provide an additional warranty when the original one we purchased the vehicle with ran out. A few months later, it started having trouble going into first gear when it was chilly. The problem was alleviated somewhat when we changed the clutch, but not entirely. This happened outside of the dealership system; I believe the engine was contaminated during maintenance, but I lacked the evidence and motivation to pursue Skoda UK. A new DMF or one of the selector forks was the next step the garage recommended to fix the issue. They also tried using thinner gear oil as a stopgap remedy, which helped but did not permanently fix the problem. For the time being, we have chosen to leave it alone; yet, with winter's return, everything is possible. Even though our tree falling on the driveway just missed the vehicle, I am quite hesitant to get another Skoda and would be pleased to get rid of ours. Despite the problems, SWMBO likes it and doesn't want to get rid of it, as I've already said. Unfortunately, the Octy is one of just a few of vehicles that can compete with its mix of roominess, speed, and affordability. I'm not sure about the most recent engine (220 hp), which is probably what you're considering, but I have heard of several complaints about the 197 hp gasoline found in VAG vehicles' excessive oil consumption. Truth be told, you wouldn't purchase a new vehicle if you did enough research online. All of them have problems that are either costly to fix or are being handled by inept major dealers.

In my opinion, it's merely been portrayed (poorly).

In retrospect, I merely had to unhook the horizontal flaps at the bottom to find the drain's exit point. You don't have to put the vehicle on ramps or climb under it to remove, clean, and reinstall the joker valve if you know where to feel for it.

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I believe I have solved the problem. Even though I haven't been able to completely thread the fish tape through the hole on the driver's side, the water does seem to be escaping. Here is what I did so that you may do it too: I removed the three plastic nuts with built-in washers and two plastic snap bolts at the bottom of the plastic wheel arch liner. I raised the car's suspension and drove it into ramps. With the wheels rotated all the way, I was able to get access to the insides of the wings by removing two metal self-tapping screws and one plastic nut (same to the nuts on the wheel arches). Once I did that, I could see where the water was leaving the operational side. It's a 15mm outside diameter rubber tube that exits within a forward-facing compartment 6 inches from the top of the leading edge of the wing. There didn't seem to be any way to get to the engine bay. The tube is almost

I've tried using a drain cleaner with a wire spring and a drill, but to no avail. It's starting to seem like a drain rod was misplaced in a prior garage. I can't figure out where the upper exit is, so I can't ride it backwards at the moment. I've removed the two plastic pins, pulled down the trim around the front wheel well, and jammed a bunch of fish tape down the functional side, but I still can't find it. I intend to return at night armed with a flashlight. I took the airbag and A-pillar trim off, but the piping must be hidden within the pillar itself. I haven't removed the roof flashing just yet. Here are three fallbacks: 1) Park with the driver's side up a modest incline so that water may flow freely away from the operating hole. 2) Use a method (such as tape) to seal the sunroof that doesn't detract from the aesthetics of the room and can be removed without harming the paint or glass roof edge trim. The third option is to drill a new drain hole and run a pipe through the interior of the A pillar; this pipe may then connect to the windshield drain via a reed valve or go back into the wing hollow.

Water is pooling in the footwell, screen pillar, and other interior areas because the front drain on the driver's side sunroof is clogged. I've twisted, pulled, and pushed rather hard with some nylon fishtape—including with a pointed brass end—and a steel coiled drain cleaner, but thus far, no luck. According to how far the tape extends (it goes twice as far on the passenger side, which is not obstructed), the obstruction is towards the bottom of the screen pillar and refuses to move. Additionally, I have checked the drains in the engine compartment and in the wheel wells and have found nothing clogging them. I've also tried using a vacuum to blow and sucking. I have not yet used my air compressor for fear of rupturing one of the internal hoses. No other options come to mind at the moment. I could use drain cleaner, but I'm concerned about the potential effects on metal, plastic, aluminum, and paint.

I will vote for 200tdi.

It's a good idea to opt for a smaller 16-inch rim if off-roading is in your future. Having more affordable options for R16 tyres is a bonus. I looked on craigslist and found a set of D2 16" wheels from a disco that was being dismantled. I went with the OME system, which included 751s up front and 781s in the back, and gained 2.5 inches all around. I also had the brake lines lengthened with steel braiding. It's possible that the old rubber ones were becoming rather fatigued after 8 years, so I figured I may as well buy additional length for the same money. The 265/75R16 Dick Cepek Mud terrains were what I sported. I was able to get a fair price from Discount Tyre Direct ($206) and then had the nearby Town Fair Tyre match it, saving me an additional 5%. Additionally, mounting, etc. The free rotations and roadside assistance are worth it, however whether or not a punctured sidewall caused by a rock is covered yet to be seen. But if it occurs, I will do my best. These tyres are great off-road and perform well on paved roads as well. If you have any questions concerning my setup, feel free to send me a private message. You may see the finished product in few photos in my album.

It's amusing to hear that. One advantage I see with these trucks is that several failures may occur without major consequences.

I think the Genuine Land Rover t-stat is fantastic. You'll be alright if you adhere to that. D2 is configured differently than D1.

I find five years to be very unrealistic. Where is the scientific proof that a contemporary aramid belt will significantly deteriorate in such a short amount of time? If VAG UK is the only organization in the world offering this advice, it strikes me as a shameful instance of making money off of unneeded labor. The little unenclosed fan belt that also powers the alternator on my TR7 is still functional after 43 years. When the vehicle was dismantled after 21 years and more than 160,000 miles, the original Focus OEM cambelt was also still fully operational. Cheapo cambelt repairs carry the danger of replacing an excellent original belt with a subpar one from who knows where and improper reassembly of the apparatus by a cack-handed technician resulting in misaligned timing difficulties reducing power and increasing fuel consumption...or worse.

I spent money on a helmet for my head, but the air simply seemed to blow right through it. I selected cycle helmets since they are built to withstand the elements (wind and rain) and are quite inexpensive. I've even run races with some of them.

Have you inquired with the cartographers?

Is that really the case? The stages often indicate the hardware needs; for example, a stage one usually doesn't need any further hardware, a stage two could need a stronger induction kit and a more free-flowing exhaust to get the most out of it, etc.