keithmerc220

I wish I could've been of more assistance, but unfortunately I can't. Is it safe to say that it has been smashed? A good chuckle is better than no laugh at all. as well as more affordable!

Thank you very much. 🙂 Any updates?

I thought I'd let you know that I posted this to the relevant Facebook group. There's still hope, I guess. If I had the means, I'd pay the whole amount personally. No, I'm afraid I can't.

Oh no! I pray for his speedy recovery.

You and your dad were driving Audis around the park, and I remember you! Happy to have finally met you! I'm so sad to hear about your father's sale. In 2004, my uncle sold my grandfather's Volvo 760 to a scrap yard, and I was and am still very sad and outraged about it to this day.

Oil consumption is often high in VAG engines. It's OK to use up to 500 milliliters every 6,000 kilometers.

Agree. On the few occasions when soap and water aren't sufficient, I've found that Sonax works wel

Never resort to physical means. If you do, the rubber drain pipe in the door may be easily pushed off, and you'll be in deep poo.

After applying an APC, I use a trim dressing that mimics nature to finish the job.

When we initially noticed there was an issue on Saturday, the temperature indicated 23.5C. The temperature read 17.5 degrees Celsius when we woke up yesterday. Today I didn't bother to check. Tomorrow, I will keep a watch on it and provide an update. I'll also check the temperatures that my reader is reporting for the various sensors.

Hi This past weekend, my family and I took a vacation to the seaside in a 2012 E220 estate. The air conditioner was, as it usually does, operating well. When we returned to the vehicle immediately after the engine had been started, the air on was blowing at a high temperature on the windshield. Both sides were set to a low setting, and it was blowing air into the face level vents. I was only able to modify the fan's speed, not the temperature or the flow direction. Tonight, after plugging in my code reader, I was given a total of two active codes for the air conditioner. I was given the following codes: 00800 and 9ED187 D00800 indicates that LIN bus 1 is experiencing a problem. The humidity/temperature sensor seems to be broken, according to error 9ED187. There is a gap in the message. I have access to a parts car, and I've tried replacing the heating control module with one from that vehicle; however, this had no effect. After that, I switched out the humidity and temperature sensor that was located behind the rearview mirror as well as both sensors that were located in the front footwell kick plates. After all of these have been changed, the air conditioner will function normally for anywhere between 5 and 10 seconds before reverting to its previous behavior of blowing hot air towards the windshield. It will not change the temperature or the direction. However, if I turn it off and let it sit for a few minutes, I am able to repeat the cycle of the air conditioner operating for around five to ten seconds before returning to blowing hot air exclusively at the windshield. The air conditioner is operating at a pressure of around 190 pounds per square inch (psi), the refrigerant is fine since I had it properly gassed throughout the summer, and it does operate for a short period of time. Do you have any ideas as to what else may possibly be wrong? It seems to be connected to the electrical system or the sensors, but I have no idea what to do next. Can you lend a hand?

I chose the black and received it on March 31, 2017, so I still get free road tax, although it took 2.5 months to arrive.

Good to know. I found a new master cylinder for less money than a kit to fix it. I keep all the parts, even the ones that went back, in case I ever need to rebuild and replace. This way, the original kit will still be there if I ever need it. This weekend, I'm going to start ripping everything apart. I know enough to be dangerous, so if you hear on the news that the brakes on an Oxford Blue Discovery went out, know that I died doing what I loved. Tinkering!

Oh, the brakes had obviously seen better days in the past. They were definitely not the finest thing in the world. When I tried to drive it, I saw that my driveway had a little incline to it. After shifting it into drive and applying pressure to the brake, it began moving forward. After guiding it back into place with the emergency brake, I got out to survey the area. Since no fluid is reaching the ground, this indicates that it is not coming from any of the existing lines or callipers. I simply decided that since I was going to have to bleed the brakes anyhow, I may as well consider replacing the lines. To my relief, the car shows very little rust if any at all. In the interim, to keep everything looking their best, I gave the areas a quick cleaning with brake clean and a coat of rustoleum. The fluid is located on the underside of the master cylinder, and it leaks out of the point of connection that the cylinder has with the brake booster. There is a possibility that the bottom of the reservoir has fractured. Haven't taken anything apart yet. Since it is not my primary mode of transportation, I have some time to become familiar with it. Would simply rather purchase something once and have to weep over it just once. I have done some research on the defender brakes, but unfortunately, they are not within my price range at this time. That was intended to be a modification added in the not too distant future. It is also important to note that I refilled the reservoir in an effort to restore some pressure to the system and determine whether or not it was actively pushing fluid out of anywhere while the machine was operating. I was unable to locate any leaks using this method, but when I checked the levels the following day, they had decreased and fluid was once again on the vacuum booster. At the moment, there are rags stacked underneath it.

Hi there! My 1998 Land Rover Discovery has many miles. I started it and had no braking pressure. My reservoir was dry and the paint beneath the master cylinder was bubbling. I suspect that block is leaking. I'm comfortable replacing components now. I've done so and read/watched various forums/videos on how to change the master cylinder. That's OK. My current queries are. Should I repair my master cylinder or acquire a rebuild kit to replace the seals? Where should I get one? (I discovered previous boards with this subject, but a lot of the links are defunct these days, fortunate 8 appears a front runner as far as I was able to find) Finally, is it worth replacing the soft brake lines now because I will have to bleed the braking system anyway? I'm interested how others feel about braded brake cables vs. conventional brake lines, and whether they're worth replacing before they break. I got the rover two years ago from a technician who went over the wiring and removed several prior "fixes." I believe the person I purchased it from and his list of repairs since he worked at a respectable shop I had been sending one of my older vehicles to for years. Most were routine maintenance. He raised the vehicle and changed the brake lines, but he made them himself. The vehicle was 7 years old then. Thanks in advance. I've already made some educated selections based on prior forums, but some of that information is now a few years old and scarce. I'm glad I found this forum after purchasing the vehicle. Your informative write-ups and calm demeanour have helped me wrench. Thanks again! Good luck!

Are helmets with flip-up fronts allowed on the track, or do they have to have a fixed complete face? Thanks.

What assistance are you looking for? Maybe start by measuring the oil pressure using a manometer? That doesn't seem very hopeful...