cumblechook22

It is intriguing to hear, since it indicates that the situation is not ordinary and may perhaps be readily managed in the future. My car will not be driven willingly during rainy days, which might be challenging in Northern Ireland, haha.

I came across some references to removing the oil cooler, but I was unable to locate any comprehensive instructions on how to properly seal or connect the flow and return pipes. Furthermore, I am uncertain if the GT model requires a certain kind of gearbox oil. I anticipate that the need for it would be more pronounced in regions with higher temperatures and frequent use on demanding tracks. Now that I have removed 15 years' worth of dirt, I hope that regular vacuuming will be sufficient to keep it clean in the future. I intend to replace the gearbox oil in the near future as a precautionary step.

Indeed, I recommend examining the content, since it was likely the main purpose of my piece above anything else. I was very astonished to discover it, and I am still pondering the cause of its severe deterioration. The environment in which your automobile is driven may certainly have an impact. However, the presence of louvres on the arch liner should prevent dirt from being blown into that particular location, unless the previous owner often engaged in reverse driving manoeuvres. One consideration I had is that pressure washing around the tyre arches may cause splattering on the rear side, which, when covered, might impede the regular airflow. In the future, I will exercise caution while washing in that area.

I have been systematically removing the undertrays and wheel arch liners of my 2008 V8 vehicle in order to thoroughly clean the accumulated road debris. In addition to removing a significant amount of dirt, leaves, and other debris, I also seized the chance to repair corroded bolts and spire nuts. Upon reaching the driver's side (right-hand drive automobile) wheel arch liner, I saw that the gearbox oil cooler was entirely obstructed. At first, I attempted to brush and hoover, but had little results. Over time, a task that had seemed simple saw a significant shift in its trajectory. I attempted other techniques, such as using an all-purpose cleaner and forcing compressed air through the cooler, but I was unable in completely removing the blockage. In the end, I discovered a cable tie that was able to pass through the narrow gaps between the fins. I then proceeded to meticulously go through each gap, ensuring they were clean by flushing them with water and then using compressed air to blast any remaining debris away. In order to access both sides of the oil cooler, it was necessary to remove the side blade, panel below, air ducting and sill. Discuss a situation that rapidly intensified. I considered the possibility of replacing the cooler, but I was worried that it could also need replacing the oil lines due to the high likelihood of galvanic corrosion occurring at the joints. Regardless, I believe I will establish a yearly routine of inspecting and cleaning to prevent the arduous work I have just finished.

I am having difficulty locating the connection point for the switch from the ECU. I have searched on YouTube and found it in a video around 4:05, but unfortunately, the movie does not provide an explanation of its use or location. Does anybody have other suggestions?

Thank you, friend. I will examine it tomorrow. Can I ask another question then? My vehicle lacks a crankshaft breathing hose connecting the valve cover to the manifold. The garage said this is typical, but I have been unable to locate any information on this online. Is this accurate, or need I purchase a hose?

The cable and wire are emerging from the ECU box located above the thermostat housing. Despite thorough searching in the engine compartment, neither I nor the technician could locate the connection point. Seeking assistance here as advised by the mechanic.

Does anybody know the intended connection point for this plug? I have thoroughly examined the engine compartment but could not locate anything. I have also included a photo for reference. I recently had the timing chain, oil pump, chain, and hydraulic tappets replaced in my vehicle. However, it is now experiencing rough idling. The car will be sent back to the mechanic for further inspection because no issues were found during a smoke test. Any recommendations?

Add just 500ml, not the whole 1 litre, and then reassess the level. It is preferable to fill less than to fill more.

Today, I saw a significant decrease in noise levels outside. Indoor temperature remains constant, but exterior temperature has significantly dropped to 18 degrees. In conclusion, the condenser fan operates with more effort under hotter weather conditions.

Yes, I forgot something and had to return inside to get it. The car was parked with the engine running and the air conditioning set at a low level due to the heat. The air conditioning compressor was not operating, as is common when the vehicle is stationary, but the noise of the fans could be heard.

Due to the recent hot weather, with temperatures in the late 20s, I need the air conditioning set on Low. The supporters are making quite a racket. Inside the automobile, everything is tranquil and silent, yet outside, it resembles a jet aircraft getting ready for departure.

I would choose the Performante. It is the most distinctive of all the options given, and if there is determination, there is a solution when it comes to upkeep. The automobiles possess exceptional structural integrity. It is advisable to take taxes into account as well. Uncertain about the tax rates in your region, however it is possible that an older Performante might be priced lower than a fresh new R8. Insurance follows the same principle. If a Lamborghini tax is not imposed, it might be advisable to get the pre-facelift R8. Wishing you the best of success in your hunt! It is a really favourable situation to encounter.

Although I first believed that the feature was related to 'favourites', I have discovered that it only allows me to add a channel to favourites, not delete it. It is asserting a total of 80.

Relocating and doing a rescan resulted in the detection of more than 80 television channels. However, only the same 5 stations were being shown.

I am in possession of a BMW 330e model from the 2017 production year, denoted by the 67 plate. I have lately seen a limited number of channels being shown on both the channel selection and the television guide. After doing a retuning process, the system indicated the discovery of 67 channels. However, the display continues to show a limited selection, consisting only of the same 5 channels. I am aware that I may be engaging in an erroneous or unintelligent action, and I would really appreciate your assistance in rectifying the situation.

Holy crap! Sorry....

The situation has been resolved and everything is now in order. Ultimately, they demonstrated proficient management of the situation. I received a phone call from one of the managers who expressed their intention to provide me with a follow-up response. Additionally, they assured me that they would uphold their commitment. The vehicle was first listed at a price of about £37,000, but ultimately sold for £36,000, inclusive of gap insurance. I will be retrieving it on Saturday. I am indifferent to the payment of the deposit, provided it is refundable in the event that the automobile is not purchased. What I have learned is that there is little flexibility in negotiating the price of the automobile. The vehicle in question is equipped with the comfort, technology, and visibility package. Considering its late 2020 registration, it is rather satisfactory in my opinion. Several other vehicles comparable to this one were quickly sold on the same day it was listed.

Regrettably, I have decided not to proceed with the automobile. I had a negative experience with BMW. Initially, the party in question expressed their intention to provide a £1000 payment. However, they have since reversed their stance, citing financial constraints as the reason for their inability to fulfil their previous commitment.

Greetings, fellow individuals. Therefore, I have just made a financial commitment by placing a deposit on a 2020 MHT model of the M340i, which is characterised by its mineral grey exterior and has accumulated a mileage of 32,000. Initially, I had a strong preference for the 335d. However, after engaging in a test drive experience with the M340i, I found myself convinced that there was no possibility of reverting to my original inclination. The vehicle in question is now located at the BMW dealership, where the dealership has included a three-year gap insurance as part of the package. I have many inquiries: Are there any considerations that should be taken into account before visiting the car? It is postulated that BMW exhibits elevated standards and is devoid of any acknowledged complications. 2) Are there any supplementary components that are worth investigating? For instance, the inclusion of gap insurance has already been accounted for. I have made many requests to them for an additional year of extended warranty, but, they have not complied with my request. I would want to express my gratitude to all those present.

I am now experiencing confusion and a sense of bitterness. I have returned the item to the vendor. After doing an examination, the individuals in question have determined that the primary battery is responsible for the issue at hand, as it is generating a mere 11.6 volts. Furthermore, the service provider demanded a payment of £370 or more for the replacement of the battery as well as the associated labor costs. I have engaged in a dispute due to the imposition of a fee for an auxiliary battery, with the assertion that its installation will rectify the issue at hand, despite the fact that it did not. The vehicle diagnostics panel in the automobile displays engine data, indicating that the battery is generating a voltage of 14.7 volts. However, the current situation remains unclear. It has been mutually decided that I will assume the cost of purchasing the new battery, while the labor price will be waived. However, I remain dissatisfied with having paid £200 last week for a repair that was unnecessary. We will assess if the eco mode is ultimately resolved.

I have just completed a 20-mile drive on the highway, during which I deliberately deactivated the air conditioning, turned off the screen, and removed the USB cords in an attempt to provide a potential boost to the newly installed battery. The indicator light on the dashboard of the vehicle remains illuminated in the yellow color, indicating that the eco mode is still engaged. I will let a few days to elapse in order to see the outcome. It is somewhat perplexing because upon my attempt to retrieve the item, I am informed that it has been completed and is in working order, despite obvious evidence to the contrary.

The model W218 2016 CLS 220D is being referred to. The functionality of my ECO mode ceased to operate early this calendar year. The yellow ECO text is shown on the dashboard instead of the green box with inverted text, indicating that the activation of the feature has not occurred. Additionally, it was observed that the air conditioning system failed to distribute cold air when operating at its lowest temperature setting. Furthermore, even when the temperature was set to 20 degrees Celsius, for instance, and the surrounding temperature was between 18-22 degrees Celsius, a noise like the sound of air passing over the top of a bottle was audible emanating from the vents. The automotive service provider inspected the air conditioning system and reported that no issues were found. However, it was noted that the system does not emit cold air, but rather reaches a temperature that is at most 10 degrees lower than the surrounding environment. This observation is peculiar considering that the air conditioning system initially produced chilled air that was capable of causing numbness in the fingers. It is worth mentioning that a similar experience is observed with the Nissan Juke owned by my spouse. In any case, it has been said that the auxiliary battery is the source of the issue. It is hypothesized that the issue may stem from a sensor inside the heating matrix, hence preventing the activation of the ECO mode due to failure to satisfy the requisite criteria, particularly if it perceives an inadequate ambient temperature. However, the prevailing belief is that the auxiliary battery is the root cause of the problem. Today, a new auxiliary battery was installed, incurring a total cost of £200 for both the materials and labor involved. The specific actions undertaken by the responsible party remain unclear, as the ECO mode functionality continues to be non-operational and the displayed text color persists as yellow rather than green. I experienced a lack of engagement with the start/stop mechanism throughout my 30-minute commute home. It is worth considering the possibility of doing a preliminary test, although one may question the need of doing so for a newly acquired battery. I proceeded to accelerate vigorously down a divided highway. The object in question remains yellow in color and exhibits impairments. I am dissatisfied with the expenditure of £200 resulting in no tangible outcome. Furthermore, the dissatisfaction is heightened by the fact that they claimed to have resolved the issue, however it is evident that the problem persists upon just engaging the ignition. Could you kindly provide any suggestions or recommendations, please?