alpaco45

The information may be found in the automobile handbook.

Does anybody experience significant heat generation from their wall charger throughout the charging process? Is the cable included as well? I am experiencing an intermittent issue with the charging system, whereby it sometimes causes a complete power outage in my home. To resolve this, I need to manually reset the switch located outside near the meter. This is really inconvenient around 2 o'clock in the morning. (I am now located in Spain, so please bear in mind that my response may reflect this geographical context.) In Spain, the electricity consumption for your residence is determined by the contracted kilowatt (kW) capacity, and the bills are calculated accordingly. Our power capacity is 5.75 kilowatts. The charger has a power rating of 7 kW, but, I have configured it in the application to only consume 2.5 kW. Occasionally, it operates well, but with excessive frequency, the power supply is interrupted. Furthermore, the issue at hand is not a fuse tripping, which would occur if one were to exceed the designated 5.75kW limit by using several air conditioning units simultaneously or using the oven and kettle concurrently. Rather, it is the meter itself that is switching off. The handbook states that the cooling fan in the motor compartment may function automatically, which it does. However, it does not provide an explanation for this behaviour. I have become sceptical of the charger's reliability, and as a result, I only charge it during daylight hours when I am able to closely monitor it. If I detect the cooling fan activating twice in rapid succession, I immediately cease the charging process. At that moment, I became aware of the heated wall enclosure and electrical wiring. The box is directly linked to the meter, bypassing the fuse box inside the home. It has its own fuse in a separate fuse box located in the garage. I would anticipate this fuse to trip in the event of a problem, however it does not. The charging station installed is an Enel X Juicebox Pro Cellular EV Charging Station, provided by Endesa. Thank you in advance for any help.

Hence, I proposed the need of using comparative wiring diagrams to identify the shared elements between the new headlights and the wiring system. This project seems to be fairly substantial!

The title of your post was rather deceptive as it indicated that everything was functioning "except for the dipped beam," which led me to inquire about the ballasts. It seems that there is a mismatch between the wire looms, rendering them incompatible. Is it possible to locate wiring diagrams for both automobiles in order to identify and analyse the discrepancies?

Is coding required for these and do the ballasts function properly?

I highly question the presence of the original battery, given the advertisement explicitly claims that the vehicle has undergone recommissioning by Mercedes. 👍

The information is included in the advertisement. Exterior colour The colour of the car is a combination of Suzuka Grey Metallic and Ice Silver.

The quality of BMW service has reached an unprecedented level of incompetence, beyond my expectations. Frankly, I would just go to the closest tyre store, providing they had run-flat tyres available. However, I would never purchase a new vehicle from BMW.

That is amazing!

Appearing rather elegant with the combination of alcantara and carbon materials 👌

I acknowledge that my actions were foolish. Although I had received instruction on drifting, it is evident that I did not get sufficient training. Furthermore, the absence of a limited slip differential (LSD) in the vehicle exacerbated the situation. I ensured that the roadways were free from obstacles and did not pose a risk to others. Moreover, the collision was not at a high velocity and did not result in any physical damage to the vehicles involved.

I am capable of doing so, but it will result in bigger rear tyres. Consequently, I am uncertain about the potential impact on the car's handling and other related factors.

Thank you, friend. I am a mechanic and I performed the balancing procedure on my own. Successfully aligned the balancer to 0 0, however, the vibration is only experienced during right turns. The wheel is somewhat deformed, and I hope that the issue is limited to the wheel itself. However, I would want to verify this before investing a significant amount of money in purchasing a new alloy wheel.

Essentially, I am 19 years old and I have acquired a 230i. I was driving with excessive confidence, intentionally disabling the traction control system and pushing the limits on wet road conditions. I have gained knowledge from my experience and will refrain from repeating such action in the future. I have incurred damage to all the suspension arms, which I have subsequently replaced, and the alloy has been deformed, but I have had it fixed. Currently, I am experiencing a significant vibration while driving at speeds over 60 mph and with a minor right turn of the steering wheel. Could someone assist me with recognising this, please? Is it possible that the wheel requires replacement, maybe due to issues with the wheel hub or the brake disc? Alternatively, might it perhaps be a more severe issue such as a malfunctioning steering rack or subframe? Assistance is requested.

Correctly aligning the spring, but not fully securing it, would typically be a simple resolution in most cases. It is unfortunate that we lack visual documentation of the spring/strut. It should be noted that MOT test workers may not necessarily be highly competent technicians.

A primary MB workshop erroneously installed an AMG coil spring in an inverted position. The mind is overwhelmed with astonishment. If the spring is authentic AMG, it will have the AMG logo, the component number, and maybe the brand 'Eibach' (as mine do). Puppets.

I just acquired it, and I am now enjoying the immersive full-screen experience it offers.

I am eagerly anticipating the release of the coolwalk upgrade. My pal has it and its appearance on our screen is much more attractive. I have upgraded my Pixel 6 to a new version of Android Auto (AA), but the user interface remains same.

I am now facing an issue where the engine has been disabled, and the Emergency Key Access (EKA) system has been deactivated by the prior owner. The Key FOB is not synchronised. I attempted to resolve the issue by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it, but unfortunately, the vehicle would not start. Is there a way to address the issue without incurring high expenses at the dealership?

Greetings, everybody. I am a recent addition to the Range Rover community. I own a P38, 2000 model, equipped with a 4.6 HSE V8 engine, and I take great pride in it. Purchased it with less than 150,000 km on the odometer. I have already travelled 28,000 km since I acquired it.

Black, white, and other similar colours are indistinguishable. They get equally filthy and need the same amount of time to clean. The most important aspect is the way it performs on the road. 😍 Currently, there is a substantial amount of dust and pollen in the environment. However, the rainfall yesterday brought an abrupt halt to that situation. 🤣

What is the level of quality of the carbon extenders on the paddles? Would you kindly disclose the source of your acquisition?

Have you replaced the gasoline filter?

Is there no return spring on the pedal?

Purchase umbrella insurance to protect against unforeseen events. In addition, we ceased making contributions to our 529 plans some years ago owing to an abysmal rate of return. We allocate the funds directly into index funds such as the S&P500. The significant profits in the market outweigh any tax advantages provided by the 529.