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I purchased a TOYOTA CH-R GR in October 2021, and in August 2026, I noticed that the front LED daytime running lights on the passenger side are malfunctioning. I reached out to the dealership from which I purchased my vehicle, and they conveyed via telephone that I must replace the entire headlight, amounting to 1,600 €. I find it intolerable for a corporation such as TOYOTA and for a vehicle model that I have operated for roughly 63,000 km to experience LED failures (unless it was a flawed production run). LEDs, as we are all aware, do not simply cease functioning abruptly. I possess acquaintances who own the same model from a prior year than 2021, with higher mileage, and have not encountered such an issue. Do you possess any details regarding the subject?

Allow one or two pipes to remain unsecured and tow the vehicle; I understand it is automatic, but if you accelerate beyond 30 mph, it may attempt to start. Once it does, tighten the pipes, and you will be ready to proceed.

Are there any error codes? or alerts on the dashboard.

Was it operational when you possessed it? It requires a period of cranking before the rail is bled and reaches optimal pressure; leave one easily accessible fuel line slightly loose and crank the engine, taking precautions as diesel may spray, so don safety goggles. Is the high-pressure pump control valve, rail pressure sensor, and regulator functioning properly?

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Greetings everyone, I recently obtained a stunning 2004 730LD, which was purchased with a diesel leak in the return pipes from the injectors. After several injectors and new return pipes were damaged, we uncovered that the flow from the tank was incorrectly connected to the return line and vice versa. The pipes have been properly installed and bled to the engine's pump, yet diesel fails to transfer from the pump to the injectors; I have loosened one injector, but there is no diesel emerging. What actions should I take at this moment, please? 🙏

I assume you were referring to AGM! Absorbed Glass Mat batteries contain an electrolyte gel that is retained within a fibreglass mat and, to my knowledge, are hermetically sealed.

A seemingly depleted battery can still provide 12.4 volts. AGM batteries do not accept a charge when they fail. You should install a new battery or, at the very least, procure one temporarily to determine if that resolves the issue. A nonfunctional battery will not permit charging via jumper cables. One method to rejuvenate a depleted AGM battery is to detach the cell caps and introduce distilled ionised water into the cells, in an attempt to facilitate charge acceptance. Attempt to loosen the live and earth connections and manipulate them slightly, then retighten.

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I have merely perused this discussion thread. A few enquiries: for what duration have you possessed the vehicle? Have you purchased from an M-B dealership; has it been maintained by them and is it current? I understand the vehicle is several years old, yet if it possesses a complete dealer service history, it might include their Mobilo Life coverage, which could allow you to request a diagnostic visit. I am confident that additional individuals will join, given the numerous terms and conditions; however, the primary stipulation is that maintenance must adhere to the schedule and be performed at an M-B dealership. If that is not the case, are you affiliated with one of the breakdown services, such as AA or RAC, and do you possess home start coverage? Once more, you might be able to arrange for a technician to visit and diagnose the issue with your vehicle. If the issue extends beyond the battery and they are unable to resolve it immediately, you ought to request that they transport the vehicle to a garage of your preference. The issue may lie with the battery, as previously mentioned by others; should you procure a replacement, verify the appropriate specifications for your vehicle (some models possess dual batteries, though I am uncertain about yours) and opt for an OEM brand such as Bosch or Varta; select a battery with a five-year rating. Although substituting the battery will undoubtedly pose no detriment, there exists the potential for other issues to be present. To ascertain the appropriate battery type for your vehicle, input your registration number on the website provided below, navigate to the car batteries section, and it will specify the correct battery model for your car, along with a selection of compatible batteries from various brands; it is advisable to opt for one of the premium brands listed, yet it is prudent to compare prices as they can differ markedly between retailers (occasionally by as much as £100 for the identical battery!). For instance, if a website indicates that your vehicle requires a type 019 battery, it is likely to present various options available for purchase; however, if you also explore platforms such as eBay or Amazon, or simply conduct a Google search for a type 019 car battery (this is merely an illustration and may not pertain to your specific vehicle), the results will yield numerous vendors, revealing considerable price disparities for the identical battery—thus, it is advisable to compare prices.

Is this the authentic MB battery? If that is the case, then at the age of 13, it owes you nothing—simply purchase a new one regardless.

How did you attach the jumper cables? Should I connect directly to the battery or to the jump start terminal in the engine compartment?

Thank you, I will revisit this matter.

Not obligatory. It pertains to its performance when subjected to stress.

Simply apply a battery tester directly to the battery located beneath a large plastic cover. This is 1-2 hours after the charger was last connected; it indicated 12.42, which aligns with the 90% the charger reported. Evidently, I lack expertise, yet it seems the battery is functioning properly?

Attempt to install an additional battery. It appears that the installed component has malfunctioned, and the internal resistance may be hindering the donor battery from supplying sufficient power to initiate the start.

The battery was charged, initially displaying 5% on the charger, and was increased to 90%, but it would not rise further; upon attempting to start, the mileage and other indicators appeared (which were absent during my tinkering on Friday night). No thing Attempted to recharge the battery once more, reaching 5%, yet it surged to 90 instantaneously, still no results. Attempted to leap from the vehicle belonging to my spouse, but to no avail. No indicators illuminated. The glow plug indicator, merely the typical digits within the speedometer that light up upon activation.

Ensure the battery is completely charged and verify that the terminals are firmly fastened. Upon complete charging, if it fails to start, it is essential to have the fault codes analysed to determine the problem. A Mercedes expert is undoubtedly ideal, yet you might require a mobile mechanic or electrician equipped with a code reader to diagnose the issue.

I possess a 2012 C220 D estate; I approached it last nite, merely four hours after returning home in it, unlocked it with the remote key fob, everything appeared normal, entered the vehicle, turned the key - it was unresponsive! I believe there were some electrical glitches and noises within the dashboard, yet the starter did not activate, no dashboard lights illuminated, and there was no response. Secured it once more using the remote control. I replicated the procedure subsequently, yielding identical outcomes (albeit now devoid of electrical anomalies and components, though I am not entirely convinced there were any), with no dashboard illumination, nothing. Once more today, the central locking functions properly, yet there is no ignition. I have taken a battery charger from my family as a precaution, although it seems illogical to me. Where ought I to direct my gaze? Assistance required.

I cherished every aspect of my thirties. I found the black cladding appealing. I anticipate that when the time arrives for the 30's refresh, they will not skimp on quality. Refrain from diminishing the quality of materials and functionalities as was done with the 5.

I transitioned from my fully paid 2022 CX-30 to a fully paid 2026 Mazda3 sedan approximately four years after acquiring the CX-30. I experienced no issues with my CX-30 and appreciated it, but I am enamoured with the latest Mazda3 sedan and am eager to acquire one now that cylinder-deactivation has been removed from the 2026 models. The arrival of the 2026 sedans from Japan, likely influenced by tariffs, was an unforeseen advantage. My sole significant complaint regarding the CX-30 is the bulky, unremarkable, and overwhelming matte-plastic cladding and bumper that detracts from the otherwise sophisticated and high-end aesthetic of the automobile. However, it remains my preferred CUV available in the United States.

I am also seeking a substitute, but the process is proving challenging. The latest VW T-Roc appears to fulfilll numerous criteria and has received excellent reviews; however, its aesthetic appeal, both interior and exterior, is lacking. Moreover, the dependability of VW is not particularly impressive, although my Mazda also lacks reliability. I examined the Toyota C-HR, but opting for the 180 hp hybrid results in merely 360 L of cargo capacity. Furthermore, mid-range Toyotas possess subpar interiors, although they retained the majority of the physical controls. I would contemplate purchasing a Mazda once more if they provided a turbo option in the EU. A CX-5 equipped with a 140 hp naturally aspirated motor? I appreciate the offer, but I must decline. I am enamoured with the new Honda Super-N. I would purchase it immediately if I required an additional vehicle solely for urban use.

Alright, it is now confirmed: From the 30, into a 3 Turbo Hatchback Crimson Essence for Crimson Essence From Mexico to Japan Required a minor alteration in routine following five years. I will see all of you on the other side.

Disregard it.

Interesting