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That is the extent of my input; I believe you may need to operate a standalone ECU. Although it may be overly opaque, there are individuals proficient in SDS who could assist with coding. Best of luck; it appears to be an enjoyable transformation once initiated.

Thank you for your response. I have removed the antenna (bag) situated near the ignition switch, as well as the chip and the DAS module located behind the dashboard of the W140. Initially, I saw a "FAULT DAS" message; but, upon locating the precise DAS diagram, the issue vanished, enabling me to access and interpret engine trouble codes such as P0431.

Doesn't the W210 possess a formidable security system? The removal of the ignition switch and module remains ambiguous.

Greetings to all, I am undertaking an engine replacement project on my 1988 W124. I have added a 3.2L M104 petrol engine from a 1997 S-Class, which was originally equipped with an automatic gearbox. I installed the engine together with its ECU, the original wire harness (engine harness connected to connectors E and F of the ME2.0 ECU), and incorporated the DAS, baggage compartment, and key utilising this wiring diagram: Explanation of Pin Functions A2 +12V subsequent to ignition (KL15) Power supply for the ECU through the ignition relay B4 +12V battery (KL30) Permanent electrical supply (fuse) Grounding of A3, A7, and A8 oecus C40 BEGIN Signal initiation input D14 Park/Neutral Validation of automatic gearbox (must be energised to permit ignition) C29 Fuel Pump Relay ECU output regulates the fuel pump with a relay. F6 Coils Cylinder 3/4 Ignition Control for Cylinders 3 and 4 F13 Coils Cyl 2/5 Ignition control for cylinders two and five F20 Coils Cylinder 1/6 Ignition regulation for cylinders 1 and 6 E1, E2, E13, E14, E12n5je, and E12e6urs ECU provide grounding for the injectors, which share a common +12V supply. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) for E37/E38 Crankshaft Camshaft Position Sensor (CAM) for E39/E40 Camshaft Position Signal E47 Mass Air Flow Meter E45 IAT - Intake Air Temperature E29 CLT Coolant Temperature Formula 1/Formula 2 Electronic Throttle Body (ETB) Electronic Throttle Regulation Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) for E31/E32/E33/E34 Throttle Position Sensors D7/D8 O2 Bank A Oxygen Sensor Signal and Ground C31/C32 O2 Bank B Oxygen Sensor Signal and Ground A5/B1 O2 Heater Supply for Lambda Sensors I successfully created the OBD port, enabling me to read error codes. I substituted the automated flywheel with a manual variant (60-2). However, I have been unable to initiate the engine thus far. I am encountering trouble code P0341. Upon further investigation, I discovered multiple discussions referencing a grounding issue. I have re-established all the ground connections; yet, the issue continues to remain. I have chosen to compose this message to solicit assistance. Does anyone possess any thoughts or recommendations for addressing this issue? Thank you in advance.

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I have successfully resolved it! The block connector connections on the aesthetically pleasing, although subpar quality, aftermarket headlamp components had begun to deteriorate. Several tips of the pins were really disintegrating. I connected the block and, after identifying several faulty lights, discovered that everything began functioning properly. The extensive hours of meticulous re-wiring yielded commendable results, undoubtedly! Aside from the expense of a batch of Scotch connectors, it was complimentary (quite atypical for my Z4)! Joyful days!

There is no evidence of combustion or thermal damage around the cluster connection or the terminal connector of the wire. Are there further earth connection points to verify, and if so, what are their locations?

Faulty bulb or grounding issue. Exchange the bulbs laterally to evaluate that component.

I disconnected the ground tracks in the light cluster and connected a line directly from the battery, thus the ground should be adequate.

What specific Earth fix did you implement?It appears like the back earth pin or wire has been burned or is burnt out.

Initially, I considered the earth connections; nevertheless, after thoroughly reading the entire post, I recognise that you have already attempted it! 😊

That is a compelling concept. I suppose there is no harm in attempting.

Can the bulb holder from the opposite side be temporarily fitted to determine if the defect transfers sides?

Greetings, everyone. I am now addressing yet another issue with my 2003 Z4 2.5L E85, but progress is being made. When I signal left, everything functions correctly; however, when I signal right, the ticking noise accelerates, and the rear brake light flashes instead of the indicator. How bizarre! When I activate the hazard lights, they operate as anticipated. I believe all bulbs are functional, with the exception of the side repeater, which I have not checked for replacement; nonetheless, I do not anticipate it being defective. I established a temporary ground connection to the light cluster at the rear, as the faulty ground at the cluster was a convenient starting place; nonetheless, it yielded no improvement. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I have encountered mentions of 'rear tail light earth' in many threads here, but I have been unable to locate any specific information

Indeed, we were overwhelmed the night prior. I was quite apprehensive about using all-season tires on this Mazda, but it managed effortlessly. I was astounded!

Excellent work. It appears frigid with perhaps sleet. The weather here is contrary.

During my downtime in the shop today, I connected the device to a steady power source and performed the TCU update to eliminate the telematics error message. Thank you It functioned exceptionally well! I remained after hours to have my live rearview mirror fitted.

Your CX-90 will appear more aesthetically pleasing once it is washed.

Thank you. I intended to post a picture, but my Mazda is excessively dirty.

It is a pleasure to get your communication.

Recently acquired a 2024 CX90 premium and am keen to discover any pertinent facts, both favourable and unfavourable, regarding this vehicle.

I believe I have discerned my issue. It appears that the actuators previously failed to fully elevate the hinges upon activation, instead forcing the hinges into the bonnet, resulting in an indentation that rendered the screws on the hinges uneven. I will remove the bonnet when I have the opportunity to verify.

Merely another fraudulent scheme at the dealer level. 🤬