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It probably goes hand-in-hand with using the windscreen wipers, right?

Hello everyone! I was hoping someone could give me some advice based on their experience with a BMW. My BMW 420i Gran Coupe is a 2014–2017 model with 76,806 miles and a manual gearbox. I've been driving steadily at 60-70 mph on the highway when all of a sudden the power goes out for about half a second. Then it comes back on and drives normally, which is a really strange and intermittent problem. There has been no slow dwindling of strength. For that brief instant, it's as if the vehicle becomes unresponsive. At that second, the speed won't increase no matter how firmly I plant my foot on the floor; then, out of nowhere, the power returns. To try and find a pattern or rule anything out, I've experimented with various gears, driving modes (Comfort, Sport, and Eco Pro), and cruise control, but it doesn't make a difference. Up until this point, it has only happened to me on long car rides, and it seems to happen at random. The fact that it happens so randomly is the most annoying aspect. It occurred again on Saturday after the previous occurrence about a month ago. The ECU is not displaying any error codes, warning lights, or discernible pattern. German Auto Center has since performed a comprehensive diagnostic and health check on the vehicle that I had scheduled. There are no error codes to guide them, and they still haven't discovered anything wrong with the vehicle. Even with real-time data, it's very challenging to diagnose events that occur half a second apart, let alone weeks apart. Not knowing what's causing it makes it seem like a needle in a haystack, and I'd rather not start spending money on replacing parts. Is anyone else's BMW 420i or other petrol 4 Series dealing with something similar? Were you ever able to determine the root cause and the method of diagnosis? I would love to hear from anyone who, while driving on the highway, briefly lost power without any lights or codes coming on, and what the solution was. Even though it's brief, the fact that it occurs at high speeds on the highway makes it all the more worrisome because of the danger it could pose. I would be eternally grateful for any help or insight you could provide. I'm crossing my fingers that someone will be able to identify these symptoms and give me some advice. I am grateful.

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Apologies, I only just saw the dateline!

Verify all exposed wires for signs of damage or potential rodent infestation.

BTW, the mileage is 109k.

Thank you in advance for your assistance. There was no drama, noise, vibration, or smells when the engine stopped, and I was doing around 60mph. Keeps the temperature from rising too high. Everything is in order with the oil and water levels. Ten minutes prior to this, the battery had no problems starting up. When I tried to turn it back on, it made the same clicking sound as a dead battery. The AA arrived just as the machine was about to be jumped; it was turning extremely slowly and drawing a massive current.Before, there were no problems with the vehicle's operation. Whether starting from a cold start or any other time, the cam chain makes absolutely no noise. In order to prevent the alternator, air compressor, steering pump, pulleys, and compressor from seizing, I intend to remove the serpentine belt as suggested. I am not an expert on Mercedes vehicles, but I am a good mechanic. If this were the case, I would have detected burning or screeching sounds coming from the belt. Even though I don't know much about the stop-start system, my suspicion is that the starter is faulty; however, I fail to understand how a faulty starter could ever cause the engine to stop running. I haven't been too concerned that the car's stop-start system has never worked. I coasted a little after applying a lot of pressure, and the only time I realised the engine had stopped was when I pressed the accelerator and saw no revs; there was no power loss. There was absolutely no indication of anything, and I have experienced catastrophic engine failure on multiple occasions. It abruptly ceased. There were no applicable codes when I used my merc-specific code reader on it. a handful pertaining to the instrument cluster's communication, but I fail to perceive any connection between the two. Absolutely nothing to do with engine timing or camshafts I would greatly appreciate it if someone with more direct experience in this area could provide some feedback and suggestions for fixing the problem.Although I am familiar with cars in general, I don't know much about this particular model. I will try to remove the belt, but it seems like a pain, so I think other checks would be better to do first. It has seized, and that is my worst nightmare. I am grateful.

To prevent the HV system from activating, it is adequate to disconnect the 12V in the engine compartment for this task. The boot battery is unnecessary for this operation. Fluid Parameters Metric Quantity Origin Aisin specification AW-2 (Extremely Low Viscosity)French Car Forum threads 75816 and 83830; DS Forums thread 1084. PSA component number 16 350 560 80 Reddit r/peugeot (reddit.com/r/peugeot/comments/1daxu73/) Overall capacity approximately 6.5 litres Per-drain capacity approximately 2.5–3 litres (one PHEV proprietor: 2.75 litres) Peugeot Forums t=377797 Per cycle replenishment 3–4 litres (subject to variation by source)Peugeot Discussion Boards t=377797 (3 L); French Automobile Forum t=83830 (4 L) Cycles required: 2–3 t=341056 (3×3 L); French Automobile Forum t=86678 (3 evacuations) Compatible aftermarket options include Ravenol ATF T-ULV and Liqui Moly Top Tec 1850. Refrain from utilising AW-1 / JWS 3324 (EAT6 fluid).French Automobile Forum t=75816

2. Safety protocols for high-voltage (HV) systems The e-EAT8 features an 81 kW electric motor embedded within the gearbox casing (as verified by Peugeot Australia: "The PureTech engine is paired with the e-EAT8 8-speed automatic gearbox"). Orange high-voltage cables extend from the battery located beneath the rear seat, traversing the engine compartment to the motor and gearbox. For a drain-and-refill, you operate beneath the vehicle, distanced from high-voltage components. Nonetheless: Refrain from handling, relocating, or detaching any orange cables or connectors. If it is necessary to detach the airbox to access the fill plug, proceed with caution around the orange wiring harness. Detach the 12V battery located in the engine compartment prior to commencement. According to InfiniteV (AU), it is crucial to deactivate the electric vehicle prior to engaging with high voltage components. This entails detaching the 12-volt or auxiliary power supply. According to the NSW Rural Fire Service EV protocol, "Detaching the 12V battery will deactivate certain systems/functions. Permit a duration of up to 10 minutes for the high voltage system to release electrical energy. Wait 5–10 minutes after disconnecting before working underneath. 3. Two 12V batteries The 508 PHEV has two 12V batteries: one in the engine bay (main, EFB) and one in the boot (auxiliary).

⚠ Safety and Mode Concerns Specific to PHEVs 1. Halt the vehicle's operation in electric vehicle mode. The 508 PHEV operates in electric mode at reduced speeds, resulting in the internal combustion engine (and consequently the gearbox) being disengaged — gear cycling and proper oil warming are not possible. Instructions for execution: On the mode selector (dashboard), choose Sports mode. Engage eSave → MAX (conserves all electrical energy, compelling the engine to operate). The Peugeot 508 manual (servicebox.peugeot.com) states: "The eSave feature allows for the reservation of all or a portion of the electrical energy… choose the amount of electrical energy to reserve: 10 km, 20 km, or the entirety of the electrical energy (MAX).

Comprehensive e-EAT8 Oil Change Protocol – 2018 Peugeot 508 PHEV (including references, all incorporated)

A useful suggestion: ensure that the fill plug can be removed prior to draining any fluid from the gearbox.

The procedure for levelling. The gearbox lacks a dipstick. The vehicle must be positioned horizontally - even a minor incline alters the volume by several tenths of a litre. While the engine operates, the selector is shifted through R, N, and D (approximately 5 seconds each), and the fluid temperature is observed using the diagnostic instrument. At 63 ± 3 °C, the level plug is extracted: when the fluid is at the appropriate level, it flows out in a slender stream and subsequently drips - this is the moment the plug is reinserted. If nothing depletes, liquid is introduced until it commences to circulate. Certain e-EAT8 variants incorporate an additional step in the process - consult the documentation for the specific gearbox type. A cold level that has been verified is nearly always inaccurate. I discovered this and merely require the additional step for the e-eat8 gearbox; if anyone has encountered information regarding it.

That is what I sought, thank you. I possess access to my family's garage equipped with all necessary diagnostic instruments; however, as this is my inaugural plug-in hybrid electric vehicle, I am curious about the impact of the motors.

The Phev 508's gearbox incorporates an electric motor. The potential for electric shock complicates the proper procedures for oil replacement.

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I believe it would be prudent to have a garage handle this task. Do you possess Diagbox, Lexia, or a comparable tool?

Greetings everyone, I am seeking some guidance. I am considering performing a flush and replacement of the gearbox oil on my 21 plate 508 PHEV. Prior to proceeding, I would like to confirm whether the procedure is identical to that of standard petrol engines, or if there are specific considerations regarding electric motors. I appreciate it.

If you intend to retain the vehicle, I believe there are two distinct "streams" that can initially operate simultaneously... 1: Estimating the cost of the most economical repair Has the Bosch center definitively identified the issue, or are they merely providing estimates for the most severe scenario? I presumed they had, but based on your remarks, it appears they may not have. According to TheAntman, the initial task is to try to establish communication with the BCM through the OBD2 interface to determine if it is genuinely non-functional. The initial task is to verify that the technician properly replaced the connector and that no fuses have been damaged! Certainly, the expense for that would likely be approximately £50, thus if they have not done so already, I believe I would cover that expense personally as a) I may retrieve my vehicle and b) if not, I would at least gain a clearer understanding of subsequent actions and associated costs. These verifications can be performed using Forscan; however, since the Bosch center has provided a quote for reprogramming, they must possess the official IDS software or possibly a Bosch application (assuming it is developed by Bosch) to execute the task. If the BCM is indeed irreparable, could you clarify whether they would provide a quote to assess the possibility of reprogramming or repairing your BCM, or alternatively, to procure a second-hand unit, given that a new one from Ford or elsewhere is prohibitively costly? You may inform them that you can provide the component, and enquire if they would be amenable to reprogramming a pre-owned part to match your keys and vehicle. It is my firm belief that ForScan will not facilitate the reprogramming unless the configuration from the current module can be retrieved. Should you opt for the "I require a replacement that I will provide" approach, second-hand options appear to be approximately £100, and the passenger fusebox is included within the unit. However, it is imperative to ensure that the part number corresponds with your existing one. If the Bosch center is unwilling to undertake any of the aforementioned actions, you will need to arrange for the vehicle to be towed back to your location or an alternative site. Nonetheless, it is possible that the aforementioned breakdown company might provide this service at no cost, leading us to point number two.... Seeking reimbursement for repair expenses from the breakdown service provider As I mentioned, if you pay to have it repaired and subsequently attempt to recover expenses from the breakdown service, you will face a significantly more challenging situation, and there may indeed be a provision stating they must be given the initial opportunity to rectify the issue. In such a scenario, you are probably only going to receive a token compensation, such as £100. If the repair is inexpensive, then it may be wise to pay for it in an attempt to regain some "goodwill"; however, if the repair is costly, it would be prudent to address the matter with the breakdown service. After obtaining the estimate from the garage they suggested, you will possess a basis for negotiation; enquire if they would consider matching the Bosch center's quote, or alternatively, if they would transport the vehicle to another establishment of their preference for repairs. You must allow them the opportunity to rectify the situation - I understand this is challenging to endure as it may take them considerable time to resolve everything - however, they are unlikely to compensate post-incident, they simply will not. You might wish to seek legal counsel regarding this matter, particularly if expenses are likely to be substantial, and they do not promptly concede liability, among other issues. In my opinion, breakdown services are entirely ineffective and serve no purpose other than transporting you to a location where repairs can be made (as was the case with my residence). Approximately 90% of issues are attributed to basic battery or electrical problems, which can reportedly restore functionality. Any additional factors render them largely ineffective at resolving the issue. I previously had a friend who utilised my old Fiat Panda, which subsequently malfunctioned and was towed; I was informed that the clutch had failed, undoubtedly the clutch, as there was a minor oil leak onto it (which I was already aware of), causing a burnt odour when it evaporated. Entered the vehicle and the gear lever was quite loose - indeed, this must indicate an issue with the clutch, correct? Puppets. Ultimately, it was an oddly contorted arm in the selector box that chose a fork; Fiat claimed they had never encountered such an issue and needed to procure the part from Italy, resulting in a two-week delay, yet it was ultimately a straightforward repair.

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I would agree with petesford concerning addressing the issue with the Breakdown company. Their responsibily, under the terms of your contract with them essentially is to not make things any worse. The reality that your vehicle, which was predominantly operational, is now entirely inoperative indicates that the breakdown technician has exacerbated the situation. I contend that disconnecting a vital control module is not the appropriate course of action. It needs to be reset properly, and quite often with more modern vehicles it is receommended against disconnecting the battery - which has, in effect been done to this module by unplugging it. I would, nonetheless, propose that there remains a chance to restore functionality to its prior state following the breakdown team's intervention, provided you possess adequate equipment to reset the module - yet I must stress the term 'possibly'. If you possess Forscan, you might be able to reset the BCM, provided you can establish a connection with the vehicle.

The failure occurring immediately after the patrolman's repair of the passenger footwell renders the BCM diagnosis appear significantly less coincidental. The information regarding the backup fob's location at least clarifies why it was functioning like an immobiliser problem.

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