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I experienced the same thing, so you're absolutely correct, ashpole. Turning off the feature that chooses chargers automatically is an option.

That was a good one! You might be able to find navigation charging presets, such the percentage you want at your destination, anywhere. Maybe they could use some tweaking. Just "take me home without stopping at any chargers" is the sole voice command that comes to mind. Would digital Dorothy respond? I have no idea!

Allow me to paint you a picture. I'm confident in my battery's ability to get me home on a lengthy journey without charging. (Really made it with 30% of the total). Overnight at home was going to be my charging session. I just said "go home" to turn on the navigation system whenever I received a diversion. For the most part, I've been pleased thus far, and I'm not one to use voice commands—I like to press buttons. Thus, the GPS system activated, along with the battery conditioning, and the vehicle arbitrarily chose a charger along the way that I had no need for. With the battery life dwindling, I decided to give the command "stop battery conditioning" a try. An error message reading "Feature not supported" is displayed. I intended to utilise the navigation without a mid-route charging point, but cancelling the navigation was the only option I could think of to halt the battery heating. Can I get what I want just by speaking into the phone, or do I have to get out and fiddle with the settings? (Down the M5 at night, I despise menu surfing!). Does anyone have any ideas? Additionally, if someone knows of a good syntax guide, I would greatly appreciate it. Yours faithfully.

So, 335 horsepower isn't enough for you? You can see that it's just a regular generic map, but it's actually a remap of the ecu, not a plug-and-play tune. The competent individual has 25 years of experience as a BMW mechanic and works as a contractor, if you will. I presume he's gone out on his own since he comes to your place to install. The problem I'm having is that the price for an Australian "European" map starts at $2500 and goes up from there. I think it's mostly due to the fact that they can charge that much and the owners of Porsche, Audi, BMW, and Mercedes will gladly pay. However, I'm not a typical European owner, and if the cars are worth 15,000, it's a bit. Although there is no shortage of 4x4 diesel tune shops, I am sceptical that they can properly map a vehicle from Europe. More often than not, they seem to advocate lifting, locking, and launching it while simultaneously pounding your chest or some other object. Further investigation led me to believe that the ZF6HP28, which is capable of 700Nm, is included in LCI series 3. However, it is solely based on Google AI, which is somewhat contradictory because it suggests using a metal pan, but my LCI comes with a plastic pan, so we're back to 600Nm. Consider going with the eco-friendly option as a precaution. The additional power is mainly for show; turning off the EGR is my primary concern.

It's hard to believe that you can achieve 335 horsepower without first testing on a rolling road before and after.Also, the dyno will give an inaccurate rating if the stock tune is higher than the factory tune.is an attempt to lure you in.

Not sure because I'm not into mapping (I bought one without mapping), but I believe they also make a map for the box. I'm quite sure I've seen it mentioned in some of the posts here. From what I've observed in the posts here, it seems like the generic maps are causing problems, thus it's best to acquire a custom one.

Now, I'd be open to listening to some music on the N57D30A 330d. The standard 240HP may be increased to 297HP with an environmental tune, and there is a Stage 1 that produces 335HP. Unsurprisingly, the 335HP is a desire of the inner hoon who exaggerated their abilities. The vehicle is equipped with a ZF GA6HP26Z automatic gearbox, as reported by RealOem.com. Which according to ISTA has a torque converter good for up to 600Nm. Celtic Tune claims that 520Nm is the typical factory tune, which is a lot of fat. Choosing a "eco" tune brings the torque up to 593Nm, which is near full capacity but still below, and it might be the safer, more prudent option. The 644Nm produced by a Stage 1 tune suggests that, according ISTA, my box would benefit from a ZF GA6HP26Z TU torque converter, which is often used in more powerful 5, 6, and 7 Series models and is capable of 650NM. I assume it's just a simple change, even if it's a big job. Thus, I have a query for individuals who have Stage 1 tunes installed on conventional boxes, maybe with a single turbo motor. Is it significant? Does it make a difference if the gearbox is more reliable or performs worse? When obtaining a tune, I bet many people don't even think about how much torque the converter can handle.

😁

Press down on the brake pedal just enough, like you would at the start of applying the brakes, and hold yourself in place by pressing a stick into the seat or the wheel. The reservoir will no longer drain if that is done. Not in time for this task, but that's the way it's done in the future.

I have purchased two icarsoft units—the mb3 and the cr pro—but neither of them have been compatible with my 2018–2019 GLC coupe.

Got a bike?

This vehicle, like many others I've had, including Jeeps and Alfas, requires the use of a scan tool. The ABS unit has valves that must be positioned in a specific way in order for air to be expelled during bleeding; otherwise, it will be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to remove the air using standard bleeding techniques. The seals would also need to be dry for days before any danger would be present, thus your claims about them are completely without merit.

When you have to flare the end of the line while it's still in place, how do you prevent the line from leaking? Well, it's too late now; the work is done. It appears like a lot of people are trying ab pump and saying they can bleed like a pig if they get air, so I hope you're right.

I'm sorry, but I find your work style concerning. If you let the cylinders run dry, you're inviting trouble because the seals require constant moisture. On a damaged bike, the brake fluid will drain quickly. When bleeding the ABS unit, a scan tool is completely unnecessary. No need at all.

To fix some damage, I had to cut the front brake line, but I couldn't find a way to prevent fluid from leaking out of the cut. It appeared like the tank was totally empty when I added fluid before the manual bleed. A diagnostic tool that claims to be Mercedes-specific doesn't appear to function, and it's a little frustrating. It was supposed to be a quick task.

It is not necessary to bleed the ABS unit unless the fluid level in the master cylinder drops too low, allowing air to enter the system.

Salutations everyone, In search of some guidance. I would like to use the scan tool to bleed the abdominal system. After manually bleeding all of the brakes, I was told to activate the ABS pump and then bleed them again. There are two options that appear when I go to the menu that should list abs bleeding on my Launch Creader Elite diagnostic tool: ESP(R) (Electronic Stability Program) and electronic parking brake. After going into the ESP(R), the high pressure and return flow pump A7/3m1 is listed. I haven't tried activating it yet, but clicking on it does give me the option to do so for three seconds. In the videos when scanners are used, the user is walked through the process step by step. For example, the scan tool would tell them to press the brake pedal, open the bleed screw, let the ABS pump run for 10 seconds, and then close the bleeder. In my opinion, this is not the correct menu to use for bleeding, even if A7/3m1 appears to be related to abdominals. Which is why I decided to test out my Icarsoft v3 Merc scanner. 'Vehicle not supported'? After identifying the VIN and choosing ABS bleed from the menu, it stops working. Only a few months ago was the firmware changed, and now I'm completely bereft. My only Windows laptop is a corporate one, and they have restricted software downloads, so I won't be able to upgrade it until next week. Version 34.10 seems to be the one it's using. Have you any recommendations? This 2019 S205 is a C43. The car is now off the road for repairs, therefore I can't drive it in a wet parking lot or slam on the brakes because it is SORN and uninsured. I would prefer not to purchase another scan tool if that is possible as well. Much obliged

I am so grateful.

The screen was my passener well leak. I didn't know it until I had to get a new screen when a stone damaged the old one. It is possible that your screen could crack 'by mistake' and need to be replaced. 😋

Hello there, I'm grateful. Based on my cursory examination, it appears... One possible cause of water gathering under the passenger seat is a broken or leaking air conditioning line. This is the standard first diagnostic for this common problem, and I don't know how to fix it. It's like when I go to the mechanic and ask for brake pads without checking, and he says I also need new discs, which doubles the cost. 2) The second issue is a leaking windscreen seal, which can be simply fixed according to a YouTube video that shows how to use fairy liquid and a watering can to locate the leak.Instead of going to a mechanic and having them change it—which would be expensive and risky—I can do this and find out how to fill it. thirdly, seeping out of the lamppost. I'm crossing my fingers that it's this because I can easily fill up my boot with water. My section necessitates additional research. Hopefully, I will be able to determine the source of the problem by testing these things over the next few days. In the meanwhile, I am crossing my fingers that the upcoming week or so doesn't see an excessive amount of rainfall. I will also make sure to check the fuses; I really hope a new system isn't necessary. For some reason, I'm transported back to the 1980s while I'm driving right now. There is complete silence, no on-demand heating, and nowhere to charge my phone. The Sat Nav was useless anyhow, so I don't really miss it. I am not a happy Nissa Noter right now. Brenda must get herself together or else. This is an extremely musty Nissan Note E11 diesel driver's way of saying thanks.

I am grateful.

Most issues have typically been addressed. The 'Search Community' button up top might lead you to the right place. A few have, regrettably, remained unanswered. Still, it's worth taking a look at

This could give you something to think about, but I'm not sure it is.

Your reply is really appreciated. Thank you very much.

I am far from being the most technically savvy person on this site.hence, I am clueless, but I would wager that you might be correct. The water leak is at the center of it all. I read a wide variety of topics when I initially arrived on this site. I thought there was a story concerning a passenger side leak? I believe it was the windscreen rubber, but I'll have to check into it and get back to you. I will try to locate it for you.