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I was going to, but then I measured the area to be worked in and the various connections to the + and - terminals, and I let my neighbourhood handyman figure it out. I fail to see why it would be necessary to link the new battery to the vehicle, even if it was mentioned. It took around thirty minutes to get it on. That cubicle is incredibly cramped.

Is the 12V AGM battery something you changed out on your own?

My 2019 E63s' primary AGM battery was just changed. After last August, the stop-start rarely works anymore. Just 500 yards after starting today, it kicked in. Fluids are clearly not heated to the point where they can be seen below. When the green square with the A sign appears, it means that stop start is functioning properly. Got the traffic lights working again, but then it stopped working again. Starting next month, I will get the capacitor replaced.

A week after I swapped out the primary battery for my glc 350, the capacitor pack gave out. The previous owner sold it after using it as a school run taxi for their children, but getting only 18 mpg in over 7,000 km.

I agree with you. After much Googling, I've come to the conclusion that it is recommended to change the Auxiliary Capacitor (voltage converter) together with the 12V battery anytime it is replaced. I had the car since it was 8 months old, therefore I assume both parts are original. They are now approximately 7 years old.

Behind the glove box, there could be an auxiliary battery in the form of a capacitor pack. On one of the entrance pillars should be a 3D barcode; scanning it will reveal the exact location of the batteries.

Even though I use my C63S occasionally, it often sits unused in the garage for weeks at a time. It's probably because the car is over seven years old and still uses the original battery, but I'm well-acquainted with the "Starter Battery" alerts that come up from inactivity. I fix it by slowly charging it, and then it works for a time. It wasn't the Starter Battery, but rather the "12V Battery" that prompted a fresh warning yesterday. It's likely that I haven't received this notification previously. At the moment, it's charging. It's due for a big repair next month, but I'm afraid they'll charge me a fortune to replace the battery, even though I've done it previously on other cars—my Jaguar XKR being the most recent—so I'm considering doing it myself. Given that it mentions a Starter Battery and a 12V battery, I'm unsure about the total number of batteries in this vehicle. According to my research, there is a single 12V battery located under the hood (or bonnet, in American English) on the passenger side; I attach the positive connector of the charger to this battery. It appears like there's an auxiliary device in the footwell that's not easy to access, but it's definitely an electrical gadget and not a battery. So, I'm hoping you can shed some light on the following questions: 1. What's the deal with the two separate warning messages for the 12V battery and the starter battery? The "Starter Battery" alerts are resolved by charging the "main" battery, so why is there a difference? 2. When it comes to a 2019 C63S, which battery do you think would be the best replacement? Thirdly, is it really essential to reset codes after changing the battery? A quick Google search reveals that many individuals have successfully swapped the batteries without needing to reset the passcode. They could refuse to reset the codes during next month's servicing because they didn't supply or install the replacement batteries, but I was wondering whether it was possible. Much obliged.

I will have a look. Thank you.

On eBay, you can get an ELM327 OBD2 Bluetooth Adapter for next to nothing, and the Torque app, which can read it, is available for free on Android.

Using an OBD reader, check for the presence of fault codes.

Well, I suppose I'll give my neighbourhood repair shop a ride. I had no idea if it would fail the MOT or not. I am grateful.

It will not pass the mot if the warning notice is visible, therefore take it to the dealer for a full diagnosis. I understand that you would rather not spend money on the automobile, but each time you purchase a component and it doesn't function, it's money wasted! If you're fortunate, your neighbourhood repair shop may offer a diagnostic kit that can identify the solution for a little less money, or you may just spend an hour of effort and get the answer.

This 2018 Kia Stonic is mine. 'Check system' was the notification that popped up on my dashboard a few weeks ago. The reverse camera is fully functional. After using the screwdriver approach to verify each sensor, I still received the error message, so I'm not sure it's the sensors. I even bought replacement sensors and attempted using them in lieu of the originals, but they didn't work either. Then what should I verify? I rely more on the camera than the sensors, and I'm old enough to have driven many cars without them, so I don't want to spend a lot of money on this. It appears that many Kia owners are experiencing this problem and have not found a definitive solution. Thank you!

It's beautiful, and I don't know how much they go for, but compared to other items in the auction with the same estimate, it looks like a lot. One of two DB4s, or a black Testarossa. Each of these automobiles is unique, but I think they're better value for the money.

Alternatively, you may enter it privately in the next Nurburgring 24h, where another EVO II has already raced.

The ideal vehicle for anyone wishing to film their own rap video set in the 90s.

https://rmsothebys.com/auctions/mc26/lots/r0045-1990-mercedesbenz-190-e-2516-evolution-ii/#/smallgallery_1435378

One for twenty-four thousand dollars?

It seems to be rather prevalent. I'm finding my stride here...

Check this out. My money is on the oil filter housing getting cooled by coolant.

You can see the oil leaking from the engine's sump and central area.

Is it typical for these engines to not produce any visible signs of wear and tear, such as a milky cap, white smoke, etc., unless the engine is run in cold weather? Additionally, I've read that a water pump leak may cause the coolant to become black and cause coolant loss, even if the leak is just a hairline.

It's probably time to replace the head gasket, so I'd take it to a mechanic to get the coolant tested. That should reveal what's browning it.

Hello, I'm new to this site and I have an e220cdi w212 facelift om651. My vehicle is leaking oil from the bottom and the coolant is a watery brown colour. The coolant also disappears every couple hundred miles. I've run diagnostics, but no errors have shown up. Does anybody have any ideas what may be wrong with my car?