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I am a middle-aged Northern Irish person on the wrong side of fifty. I am in search of guidance regarding the purchase of my next vehicle.

If you plan on retaining it, you should investigate mb service plans.

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I appreciate your feedback, however those wheels are authentic MB 20-inchers. I will contact my local MB dealer to find out how much the key fob and coding will cost. Then, I will determine the price of the full service. Thank you everyone for your help; this is a wonderful community. I appreciate it.

I don't think locking nuts are necessary anymore because alloys are so common, unless the wheels are exceptionally unique. Other perspectives would be interesting to hear. In terms of a specialist, I would recommend Mercland as Nuneaton is not too far away.

One, be ready to spend £300 or more. 2. Just which service is lacking? The fourth-year service is extensive and includes replacing the cabin filter, brake fluid, air filter, and spark plugs (petrol) or fuel filters (diesel) as well as the brake fluid and air filters. Included in the fifth year's service is Service A, as well as ATF and filter change (automatic if applicable). Can you provide me with a copy of the DSB that shows the progress made so far? 3. You have a lot of options; you can acquire them from MB, Febi online, or simply choose not to wear them. Do you have authentic MB wheels or are they aftermarket?

Yes, unless something changes, MB will not release any cloning software after 2016 ISH. 2. It's service-specific; some demand additional stuff. To keep up with the mb ess, you'll need things like brake fluid, air filters, fuel filters, and fuel. 3. You Name It.

Hello, I am in search of some knowledge regarding a couple subjects. I've done my research, including checking with HP Finance to see if the vehicle has an exceptional MOT history, etc., and I'm hoping to purchase a 2019 E class convertible. If anyone has any ideas or can assist me figure out my concerns, please let me know. (1) The car only has one key fob. Can I just buy replacement key fobs from this major dealer, or is there somewhere else I can acquire one? Since it is behind schedule and missed a service, I was wondering how much the full service version will cost. The e-class is sitting on 20-inch wheels without locking wheel nuts; does anyone know where I can buy them, other than MB Main Dealer? (3) I'd rather not take it there. Much obliged.

Best regards, buddy

Having fitted vrsf, forge, and mishimoto before, I can tell you that they are all pretty much the same; let pricing be your guiding factor. I have also completed the boost pipe from the other side of the intercooler all the way to the turbo, but the most important one is the charge pipe that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body. Although the charge pipe is easier to change, this one is more complicated.

Thanks, man! I figured the M division would find a way to accommodate them in the plant if they were really influential. Thank you for the information about the boost pipe. Do you know where I can acquire one? I will investigate it.

They don't accomplish anything except make induction noise, so I wouldn't squander my money on one. Instead of the regular air box and paper filter, I would expect to see them in M cars if they delivered any sort of performance boost. The plastic boost pipes, particularly those that attach to the throttle body, are prone to failure; I've replaced multiple of them due to spring clip failure and blowoffs, therefore I would recommend upgrading your N55's boost pipes instead.

He never used it, but I bought his 2016 M135i nevertheless. My M135i already has a stage 1 remap and an upgraded exhaust, but I'm looking to do some DIY upgrades. I'm starting small, having the wheels refurbed and switching to black badges, but I'm hoping to add an induction kit soon. Has anyone here installed one? I'd love to hear your thoughts and advice on whether or not it's worth it.

Even though I've never used one before, I picked myself one of those sticky string kits because my son raved about it while stationed in Kenya. After a few uses, my pump is operating properly; the readings on my pressure gauge are very close to each other.

From the wheel store, I purchased a spacesaver wheel and jacking system for £89. A new tyre will be necessary if you insert that foam.For what it's worth

Good point, and I hope it's common courtesy; I did it when I scheduled it in, and I'll do it again when I drop it off.

After trying to fix the tyre with muck, make sure to inform the garage. They never seem to approve of workers getting covered in the stuff.

This might potentially be a problem.

My Kia pump doesn't even have a functioning gauge. Remains at zero. It would be wise for me to discuss it with Kia.

Yesterday I got a flat tyre and the warning system worked great. I followed the directions to a T for using the onboard repair kit. Even though the tyre was obviously still inflating, my primary worry was that the compressor gauge stopped rising at 20 psi. After switching to my own pump, I noticed that the tyre pressure was higher than 40 psi, which is obviously not ideal. The tyre had the sealant poured into it, but after a long drive, it didn't seem to have made any difference. This afternoon, I will change the tyre and, later on, I will explain the reason for the puncture, since it may be pertinent.

Mine was functioning when I parked the car, but it has since stopped responding, so I'm hoping it's not the vp44. When I think back on this difficulty from many years ago, I recall that we had to tow the automobile in order to start it, but I believe that was due to the fact that we didn't have alternative methods. For some reason, the only thing that comes to mind is to give it a quick spray of brake cleaner or easy star for a couple of seconds.

After removing one injector and adjusting the metal fuel line to suspend it over the engine, I made sure that no fuel was spewing out of the other injectors. The VP44 connector's ground and power are functional, as I verified. First, air got into the system when the injectors were disconnected. Second, VP44 could be malfunctioning. Third, the immobiliser could be preventing it. The VP44's unexpected failure coincides with the injector removal; therefore, tomorrow I will attempt to bleed the gasoline lines once more, since I do not comprehend why it would do so.