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I thought you were replacing the whole unit, not just the screen, so there must not be a code required. A code shouldn't be necessary if your current unit is the original. However, if it has been replaced with a used unit, you'll likely need the VIN of the donor car in order to obtain the code. For the most part, they are VIN locked to the vehicle. A more knowledgeable ICE specialist will be in touch soon.

https://amzn.eu/d/0avr3LMr

A 2012 B200 Sport, my first Mercedes, is almost at my doorstep. The screen displays the "anti theft protection activated" message, which is a source of frustration. Whatever the case may be, I really want to get CarPlay and a larger screen. Here are two inquiries: The idea of obtaining a code to open it has been mentioned in a number of places. I suppose it would be most efficient to do that after the new unit is installed, so I don't have to do it twice? Could someone please suggest a new screen or unit? These appear to be OK: https://amzn.eu/d/0avr3LMr, but do you have any other recommendations that people have successfully installed and are now using? Much obliged.

A line from Toyah's 1981 single "The answer is unknown.

If you have any pictures, could you please tell me which year and model it is and precisely where the problem is?

I noticed that you mentioned the front end of your Toyota getting condensation in your post. Is the accumulation in the headlights or some other part of the engine compartment where you're noticing it? It would be helpful if you could provide more details so someone could understand what's happening!

Exhaust system for Toyota

wow! I'm just giving it enough time and will be driving it over the weekend to rescan and see what's wrong; getting the responses has cleared my mind for now, haha. The only light that came back was about a communication issue, but it was marked as minor.

I purchased my used 2006 MB with full confidence. I started off by purchasing an iCarSoft scanner. There are no EML warning lights on the dashboard, but there are a plethora of stored 'faults', including one that claimed the vehicle was missing a gearbox. It has been five years since I cleared the lot, and nobody has returned.

Ignore the request for clarification regarding the outstanding code. Thanks once more

I am grateful. I'll wait a bit before scanning again, since only one of the minor errors has returned so far.

Ah, I see! Thank you for clarifying the outstanding code. After fixing those bugs earlier, I suppose I'll just have to wait and see. Only one has made it back thus far.

Another possibility exists, and it involves an impending error. On initial occurrence, the MIL will not be illuminated by certain faults, even if they are emission relevant. For some, the failure must occur over the course of several drive cycles, usually three.

Additionally, the MIL lamp will not have been turned on, regardless of the presence of an error code. Faults that are considered to be relevant to emissions are the only ones that need to be lit. Engine, gearbox, dosing control module, or any other on-board diagnostics (OBD) node or module must be faulty for the problem to be relevant to emissions. Some of those codes and descriptions won't come from an OBD node.

Responded from the opposite end. Yes, as mentioned earlier, not all codes produce light in the same way.

It is possible, indeed. There are a lot of codes, some of which may be old, stored in the vehicle. In most cases, erasing the codes and then seeing which ones return after a week should suffice to ascertain their safety.

Has anyone else experienced a 2017 W205 250D coupe with a bitchy drive and low mileage? Is it possible to have no engine warning light but numerous error codes? Since someone else has asked this question and not received a response, I was wondering if there is a known reason why this could happen. The following P229F85 was shown by the Carly scanner that I used. Nox sensor 2 (in cylinder bank 1) is not working properly. There is an issue with communication with the control unit 'combustion engine' (U010000). There seems to be an issue with the control unit 'Multifunction camera' and the U11A300 communication. There is an issue with the electronic ignition lock's communication (U016887). This is a B1F4500 warning: the starter battery is too resistive. The B21059A is a The starting battery's capacity is inadequate. The system or component does not meet the operating conditions. Communication with the 'combustion engine' control unit is not working properly (U010000). The control unit 'Traction system' provided plausible data (U041600-). U010000: The 'combustion engine' control unit is not receiving data properly. The 'combustion engine' control unit is not functioning properly via communication. The 'combustion engine' control unit is not functioning properly, according to the C10000 system. Please help me understand my rights and responsibilities when dealing with the company and the warranty; otherwise, I may have to return the vehicle.

No, I'm positive I have the correct cylinder; thank you very much.

Although it may seem trivial, are you using the correct cylinder 1? (Operational error P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire) When compared to other manufacturers, Renault comes out on top when counting from the gearbox end, rather than the timing gear. Search online for "Renault petrol injector tests"; there are many videos available; watch a couple. The simplest thing to do would be to switch out the injector on cylinder 1 for another. Will the OBD2 code also change? Prior to investing in costly measures like injector replacement, a compression test should be considered.

I ran a diagnostic check using an OMDII reader; the flashing engine light was the first source of alarm. The scan returned code P0301; the spark plugs were extremely dirty, but new ones have been installed. I should have diagnosed more quickly because that is not the problem; I have also installed a new coil pack.

Is it safe to assume that you haven't had a diagnostic scan if you're playing parts darts? Next step well-taken.

Finding the cause of a missfire on my partner's gorgeous Clio Mk3 is a blast. The spark plugs and coil pack were replaced, so they are no longer a possibility. I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of a helpful video that demonstrates how to test, clean, or replace fuel injectors.

Hopefully it’s the switch then as you anticipated though a bit strange that hi beam not working?….As Antman suggested, a degree of diagnostics may be necessary...I no longer possess a PC or Forscan, regrettably, so I must depend on local establishments...At least you got it running again & I’m sure all will pan out well…ATVB…..

I accessed the vehicle using the key located at the back of the fob and charged the car overnight.Next morning both fobs worked and car started straight away .Still no light switch connected but when engine starts, lights come on but no main beam available. Turn engine off ,lights go off .No intermittent flashing every ten seconds.Car is as normal apart from no light switch connected 🤷.I am having a new switch installed and connected on Monday morning.

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