All Activity

I appreciate your response. I will attempt to replace the brake fluid and re-bleed the system.

Is there any liquid present on the floor behind the clutch pedal? It may be beneficial to inspect behind the pedal to determine if it is damp.

It seems like a clutch issue, either with the master or slave cylinder, even though you've bled the slave. Since you said that it engages after a few pumps of the pedal, I'd say it's either the master or the slave. Good luck!

Salutations, everyone! A 2011 Mercedes Vito W639 RWD 2.1 Diesel is in my possession. With the engine turned off, it shifts smoothly into any gear after I adjusted the cables, which were the Mercedes-specific parts, and the gear selector arms. I feel like I'm missing a clutch because the engine won't shift into any gear when I turn it on. A year ago, a new clutch kit called LUK (3 pieces) was introduced. After inspecting the clutch and bleeding it from the gearbox side, everything appears to be in good working order. I can quickly shift into first or second gear without crunching if I press down on the clutch pedal five to eight times. It starts up normally in any gear when the engine is off, and the clutch bites where it should, but as soon as I shift into neutral, the clutch becomes inoperable, as if it were defective. Has anyone else experienced this problem, and if so, what could be causing it? What lies ahead for me? Is it a clutch problem? I don't believe so. Is there a problem with the clutch operating? The clutch slave cylinder is new, so it could be the pedal cylinder. From the engine side fluid bottle to the brake pedal to underneath the gearbox side, I have not detected any fluid leaks anywhere in the system. Your guidance is greatly appreciated. My sincere appreciation

🙂

By any chance, were you a Kia dealer in Botley, Southampton? Then I wholeheartedly agree; if that's the case, send me a private message.

Gotta love that new ride! 🚗

Leapmotor B10 | Leapmotor Forum

For some reason, I just can't fathom why you don't see one. Searching Google for "leapmotor forum uk" took all of a few seconds.

I can't say much bad about the Niro EV4 itself after three years, but the dealer's service department isn't exactly top-notch, so I'm thinking it's time to upgrade. Still, I've decided to get a Leapmotor B10 because of how much it costs and how much value it provides. The only features I'll miss are a head-up display and an opening sunroof, but other than that, it's got everything I need and more. Thanks again for all the advice and assistance; now I'm just hoping to locate a Leapmotor-specific forum; I haven't been able to do so yet.

Just right.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

I opted for the HU 6014/1 z MANN oil filter and the BMW Twinpower Longlife-04 5W30 motor oil.

Personally, I'd also recommend 5w30.

You said that my car requires 5w-30 oil.

On subsequent generations of vehicles, including yours, FE oil has superseded LL04. Simply enter your vehicle's model on the Opie Oils website, and the site will return results tailored to your vehicle.

The most common oil for BMWs is 5w-30 LL-04, but you should check your owner's handbook. Hopefully, it will tell you that. Also, unless you want your warranty voided, you should never use AI for important decisions—or anything, really.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

Amazon.co.uk : X3

Hey there! I would like to schedule an oil change for a 2020 BMW X3 xDrive30e Hybrid with 130,000 kilometers on the odometer (VIN: WBATS110709D47624). I am at a loss as to which option to select. There is a lot of disagreement online, and when I attempted to use AI to help me decide between the two oils, it gave me conflicting advice: 0W-20 BMW TwinPower Turbo LL-17 FE+ or 5W-30 LL-04 BMW TwinPower Turbo Engine Oil, both made by BMW, 1000 ml each.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Kia+heated+steering+wheel

Is that so? Please remove the steering wheel so that I can inspect it.

A broken clockspring cable in the steering wheel is a typical cause.

Alright, I'm grateful. I'll get to those and get back to you.

Sure, I'm grateful. What I have discovered is this: Problems and Their Solutions Most often, a faulty brake light switch is to blame when the main light comes on but the speedometer remains unset. Two individual circuits make up the switch. The first one activates the brake lights, and the second one signals to the cruise control system that you aren't applying the brakes. If the second circuit doesn't work, the vehicle will assume you're braking and won't set. Verify that the brake lights are functioning properly; however, keep in mind that a faulty internal switch for the cruise control may be present even if the outside lights are operational. In most cases, you can fix the problem by replacing this cheap switch that is located above the brake pedal. A secondary clutch pedal switch informs the engine computer if the clutch is engaged, which is only present in Sorentos with manual transmissions. The cruise control will not allow you to select a speed if this switch is malfunctioning or not properly positioned. Problems with the "SET / COAST" or "+" / "-" rocker switches on the steering wheel could be due to loose wire ribbons or worn internal contacts; however, the master power button is functional and illuminates the dashboard. The vehicle's computer will prevent the cruise control from engaging if the speed sensor fails to provide a consistent reading. Suggested Following Actions To check the brake lights, either have someone else hold the rearview mirror while you press down on the brake pedal, or go around to a reflective surface. Connect an OBD2 scanner to your Sorento. A broken brake switch or cruise circuit can still cause the body or powertrain computer to store specific fault codes, even when the check engine light is not on.