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What annoys me is that this is the same type of information that is commonly found in car repair manuals and similar resources, but it isn't implemented when the car is being built! When I purchased my 2016 Mondeo, it had 3,000 miles on the odometer and was six months old. Three months later, I had to take it in for a warranty claim (which Ford first tried to avoid, but the dealers were on my side). The reason was that the rear discs were completely damaged due to the pads seizing, which occurred because Ford neglected to apply brake lubricant to any of the contact points during assembly. Very well done.

No one I worked with believed it would make a difference when the brakes weren't leaking and were functioning normally; it's possible the Fiesta has the same problem as the Escort. Driving on a rainy day and then leaving the car parked for a day or two would eventually ruin our GTi. So, I made my "mod" a regular part of servicing the brakes on all of my work vehicles, and the number of vehicles experiencing issues gradually decreased. The boss began to believe it a bit more after seeing that the cured cars were all ones I had performed my "mod" on; as a result, it became routine for all of our non-menu serviced vehicles.

This is really helpful information for me, so thank you very much. The wheels were cleaned with a jet washer two days prior to my attempt to drive the car, but I was unable to do so because the handbrake was stuck! Since it happened the other day, I haven't attempted to move the car. Tomorrow, I plan to take a hammer to it and gently drive it backward and forwards to see if that helps. Nonetheless, this must be deliberate. The inside of the drum must have become rusted from water intrusion. Everything you've done to assist me is greatly appreciated. After I examine the vehicle, I will provide an update to everyone on this thread.

If there's enough room, you can try driving backward, but it might yank it loose occasionally. it may be helpful to hit the drum a few times on its face (the flat side where the hub is) with a hammer, as mentioned by others. In most cases, the culprit is a leaky wheel cylinder that lets water in and causes the wheels to become stuck. Additionally, if the vehicle has alloy wheels, washing it might be all that's needed to slightly adhere them. information discovered on our BRAND NEW Escort GTi. At the time, I was employed at the supplying dealership. When it was out of warranty, I decided to do my own inspection (since my boss never assigned me the task). I applied a thin layer of copperslip to the backing plates where the shoes touched, moved the handbrake lever forward on the shoe, and coated it with copperslip. From then on, the fault never reappeared. For a while, I was the only customer at that dealership who had a solution to this problem, and it eventually spread to cars with alloy wheels (presumably because water could more easily enter the drums through the larger holes in alloys). should be kept in mind when driving with alloy wheels

Indeed, a prevalent issue, as mentioned earlier. If you want to access the adjuster wheel and set it to free, you can remove a grommet from the backplate of some of them. As far as I can recall, the Fiesta Mk7 does not have this feature, and I would assume that earlier models did not either. Turn off the handbrake adjuster and check that the cable isn't getting tangled up when you press down on the lever. Then, as mentioned earlier, hit the drum with a large, soft-faced hammer—or, if you're okay with that, a regular hammer—but preferably a heavy one. Turning on the wheel might get you there, but it's highly unlikely. At the very least, you can attempt driving in reverse and forwards to see if you can reach it while the wheel is on. Hopefully, you can remove the drum if that doesn't work. If your handbrake becomes stuck, you can unfasten it by removing one or two small torx screws; otherwise, you'll have to prop a bar under the studs to prevent the drum from turning! If they're corroded, you can drill off the heads. After that, you can try to remove the drum by screwing a suitable bolt into the threaded hole that Ford should have provided. If you can, spray penetrating fluid into the space between the drum and the backplate lip, and give the sides a more liberal whack; this will also aid the process. A friend of mine once drove the short distance to the garage while the rear wheel was locked and dragged behind him—not a good idea!

If you are able to remove the wheel, try tapping the drum lightly with a hammer or mallet; this may cause it to release. When they're picking up long-standing cars on Bangers and Cash, they do that. Please inform us of your progress 👍.

Hello everyone, I am having trouble getting the car to move when I release the hand brake lever. I think it's probably just one corner where the shoes are stuck because the car dips at the back in one corner when I try to start it. But it's stuck so firmly that the vehicle won't move. As a first step, could someone tell me what I can do to try to identify the problem's origin? My ability to attempt a self-repair depends on the nature of the problem. Despite the fact that it may be difficult to remove the drum...It would be great if there was a way to release the hand brake first, so I could take it the half-mile distance to the garage to get it fixed right. I am grateful.

Yeah....went full MB....not looking forward to dismantling that anytime soon!

Is that a Mercedes?

I'm curious, where can one buy plastic ones?

I bought a pair for my OM642, and for all the reasons stated above, the fit and quality were absolutely awful. I got some replacement plastic ones and put those on.

go.skimresources.com/?id=2518X1570512&isjs=1&jv=15.9.1&sref

Greetings everyone If anyone has upgraded the alloy rod for the swirl flaps on a v6 engine, please share your experience. I bought a kit from eBay, but the garage that installed it told me the new retaining clips that attach the rod to the flap arms don't stay put once installed; no matter how you move the rod, the clips will come loose. They informed me that the new retainer clips are too short or that the upgraded rods are too thick in comparison to the old ones. The garage won't install the kit I bought, so I was hoping someone else has experienced this and found a solution. I would be very grateful for any comments you might have.

It appears to require substantial effort for minimal gain.

You can purchase a comparable item on eBay that operates on a 12v power source, similar to a rope light.

If you aim to light an area that was not previously considered, the vehicle must be programmed.

Good morning, I attempted to investigate but was unable to locate a definitive response. I possess a 2018 GLC AMG Line (neither premium nor premium plus) and I intend to install ambient lighting around the center console and door trims. I am solely focused on the three colours to maintain the vehicle's original equipment manufacturer appearance. I have successfully located and procured matching door trim panels with the same finish as the light strips (A2057201880, A2057307622, A2057201780, and A2057300522) from a 2019 GLC. Locating the door trims equipped with LED strips that lacked premium audio and memory seat features proved challenging. Is there a connector present in the door looms for these strips, and can they be activated via a computer to display on the command screen? Is it feasible to retrofit solely the tubes in the center console (essentially slotting them in), or would it necessitate acquiring an entire center console from a vehicle equipped with the ambient package? My vehicle is equipped with orange illumination beneath the door handles and in the footwell, as well as puddle lights. Is there anyone who can confirm whether the illuminated sills or door plates I acquired would be compatible for plug-and-play installation with the appropriate wiring harnesses? My doors are equipped with illumination on the exterior and a puddle light below.

Remember to utilise this as a justification for taking a somewhat extended drive in your Evoque occasionally.

I recently drove the Evoque, and there were no warning indicators; it felt more refined. Thank you, everyone.

Ah, the pleasures of possessing an Evoque!! Or any contemporary diesel vehicle, for that matter!

It could merely have been an arbitrary activation of the warning light rather than a genuine problem with the DPF. Several years ago, during our previous Evoque (2016), the 'Check Brake Fluid' indicator remained illuminated one morning. I dedicated several minutes attempting to remove the cap from the reservoir for inspection (unsuccessfully!), but when I engaged the starter once more, the warning had vanished and did not reappear over the subsequent four years. The occurrence of a random 'Bonnet Open' alert may suggest that the Evoque's quirks are simply acting up again.

The vehicle appears to have required merely a DPF regeneration. This is entirely typical, particularly if you predominantly utilise the vehicle for brief trips. If your driving primarily involves brief excursions of 5–10 km and you seldom embark on extended trips, I recommend steering clear of diesel vehicles. Contemporary diesel engines are adversely affected by interruptions during DPF regenerations. This may result in additional complications, such as fuel contamination in the engine oil, AdBlue crystallisation, and various associated problems.

The vehicle appears to have required merely a DPF regeneration. This is entirely typical, particularly if you predominantly utilise the vehicle for brief trips. If your driving primarily involves brief excursions of 5–10 km and you seldom embark on extended trips, I recommend steering clear of diesel vehicles. Contemporary diesel engines are adversely affected by interruptions during DPF regenerations. This may result in additional complications, such as fuel contamination in the engine oil, AdBlue crystallisation, and various associated problems.

I am uncertain about the issues that arose, but based on my own experience, I encountered the DPF full warning only once. In a state of panic, I had my mechanic friend perform a DPF cleaning, and surprisingly, he informed me it was merely 33% full, yet he proceeded with the cleaning regardless! After 2.5 years, another acquaintance now possesses my Evoque, and there have been no further DPF alerts since.

hi just thought i would let you know of the shock i got today regarding my evoque this is my first diesel car so i have owned this car for 4 yrs never had this problem before in my 70yrs got in the car to take missus to tesco warning came on exhuast full i had not got a clue so went into panick mode looked up what to do drive at 40 to 60 for half hr or so keeping revs at 2500 to 3000 not a cat in hells chance of that where i live but gave it a go 15 mins in realised i could not keep this up so i put car in sport mode and used paddles that i have never used to change down to 2nd and 3rd to keep up the revs did this for 1 hour during that time the car also shut down active dynamics but didnt alter steering the told me my hood was open so i pulled up checked bonnet that was not open and carried on driving to my home as i parked on my drive the small triangular warning went off so i got out my icarsoft and cleared all the faults left the car overnight next morning went out fired up the car no faults now seem all ok but what a day of learning for me in my first ever diesel car :unsure: 🙂