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Greetings, I have recently completed this task; your description is really clear and concise. Just so you know, the 2003 model year W203 270CDI on my car has the E10 and T30 sockets. In order to completely remove the top bolt, the E10 driver must be very tiny so it can fit into the narrow space. I managed to fracture the bolt off and free it halfway with my 3/8" socket drive, but it got "caught" on a hexagonal fitting. To fully remove the bolt, I switched to a 1/4" drive 9mm socket. In the event that anyone is in need of purchasing the Torx and E-Torx drivers, I hope this information proves useful.

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I simply used the rubber "gasket" that came with the thermostat instead of sealant. The mating surface should only be clean and flat. For less than a main dealer and with MB Club Discount, I purchased my stat from www.eurocarparts.com. Use the code mbclub25 when you check out.

repair work on the thermostat unit An immediate inquiry. Putting sealant on the thermostat housing is optional. Given the presence of a rubber ring, I am uncertain as to whether sealing is still necessary. The thing is, I've always been told to use sealant on joints that are exposed to both water and oil.

Thanks for making it available "over here"; I've sent this tutorial to several folks on the other side since, as far as I can tell, W203 (and similar) diesels have a thermostat problem; I had to replace mine in the first year after purchasing the vehicle. It was well worth the little investment because it not only got the engine up to temperature but also raised mpg from 40+ to 45+, making the heater operate.

This "How To" instruction should be useful for anyone considering doing the task themselves, since many people have been enquiring about engine running temps lately. Someone on another MB Forum generously provided me with this fantastic guide, and I simply wanted to say thank you. It could be worth it to change the oil filter at the same time since the operation is considerably easier with it off. Handle with care because the filter housing is made of plastic and is reused. (I did the oil change as well). Replacement of the C270 CDI W203 thermostat. The C220 CDi W203 appears identical. Equipment needed: a ratchet and an extension bar, preferably with a ½" drive, and a length of 4′′ or 6′′. These are the socket sizes: 6mm, 7mm, and 8mm. Housing socket for oil filters. The ideal Star/Torq bits are E12 and T27, which are ½" drive sizes. Joey is just right. Proper axle supports. Scraper for soft materials. Food items: Ice Melt Degreaser Cloth that is lint free Dental floss Thermostat Gasket and Housing. The oil filter housing's "O" ring! (If you think it's worth it to change the rusty pipe between the house and the block all at once) This is what the novices try... To keep the coolant from leaking out of the under-tray tray... The first step is to use axle stands to raise the vehicle. Make sure you have enough space to lift the engine out of the undercarriage using an 8-millimeter socket. Starting at the top, use the T27 socket to remove the engine covers. Determine what you can remove to simplify the task at hand. Going from the gasoline filter to the pump, I chose to disconnect the fuel delivery pipe. To prevent dirt from getting inside, I removed it from the fuel filter can and sealed the exposed hole. Additionally, I used a T12 to secure what appears to be a test point that I removed. The fuel rail sensor cables were also disconnected by me. Open the header tank to release system pressure after the engine has cooled. I turned off the water mains after that. WARNING: The system may still be under pressure. First, I used a 6mm socket to remove the little bore from the header tank. After that, the 7mm socket leads to the radiator via the large bore hose. The fuel cooler is reached by means of an additional tiny bore pipe. I decided it would be a good idea to remove any debris and grime from the region before removing the housing bolts. Keeping impurities out of my coolant pipes. After using a tooth brush and a water-washable degreaser to scrub the area, I rinsed it off with clean water. A further "hose" can be found beneath the thermostat casing; bring it to your attention. Flared ends adorn this rigid 2 or 2 1/2" hose. The clamping force between the thermostat housing and engine block is all that's needed to keep it in place. I reused the hose, but if you want to replace it, now is a good time to do it. The only way to modify it is to remove the housing. Keep in mind that this hose will detach after the housing is unscrewed. You should also inspect the state of your hoses at this time. Take the sensor cable out of the enclosure. Use a little screwdriver to push the little clip release. One E12 bolt is on top, and two are below; locate them. In an effort to avoid accidental drops, leaks, and other problems, I refrained from removing the oil filter housing. Removing this made my life lot easier, as I soon realised. After I took it off, I used a lint-free cloth to tightly wrap the exposed part and climbed over to prevent any bits from falling in. Remove by cautiously cracking off the bolts one at a time using a size E12 torq bit. I had to use considerable force to pry my housing off the block. The aforementioned "short stiff hose" immediately set out on its own as it became free. Declining the engine's side. When taking the housing apart, remember this. Be cautious not to scratch the metal surface as you use a cloth and scraper to clean up the area. It should go without saying that you shouldn't hurt the face! The replacement component will have a rubber gasket; install it. As you insert the "short stiff hose" into the corresponding hole in the block, carefully position the housing so that the "short stiff hose" lies in the housing's bottom opening; do this while avoiding obstacles like a fuel rail. When everything is in place, insert the bolts into the housing and tighten them. Verify that the housing is perpendicular to the block and that the "short stiff hose" is securely attached. When you're satisfied, tighten the bolts; but, be careful not to strip the threads by going too far, since you're forcing a strong bolt into a soft block. A torque of 9 Nm is recommended. Get a new housing for the oil filter right away. Reduced torque to 25 Nm. I should have gotten a fresh 'O' ring, according to the rules. While shopping for a thermostat, you can consider adding this to your wish list. Reattach all of the hoses once they are snug. Simultaneously, I replaced the clips on my hoses. The big radiator hose was the last thing I attached. Prior to replacement, I will attempt to fill this hose with coolant. Make a mixture of coolant once all the hoses are reattached. I was able to pour three litres into the top hose before it began to leak out of the housing. Secure the hose and clip. Fill up the tank on top. Mounted behind the headlamp on the driver's side of the C270 is an electric water pump. (I looked at my C220 CDI W203 and couldn't find a pump like that.) Turning the key starts it up. In the off chance that it would aid in releasing air locks, I let it run for ten minutes. Once the gargling became excessive, the sounds ceased. I proceeded to start the vehicle and let it to warm up. It seems like the car is heating up and cooling down normally, and I don't have any air locks, either. If you're paranoid (like me), check the header tank levels and keep an eye out for leaks throughout the following few days of running. So that I could look for leaks, I left the engine covers off. Nothing has gone wrong after 600 miles. In comparison, my automobile reaches 80 degrees in 15 minutes at 60 miles per hour, with an ambient temperature of 5 to 6 degrees Celsius, and it starts to warm up in about 10 minutes. The temperature ranges from 85 to 95 degrees Celsius. For anyone who has never changed a thermostat before, I hope this serves as a warning. It will save you £185 in labour costs.

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The colour changed to green, indicating that gases are leaking into the coolant. The garage claims they can't determine if it happened three days or three weeks ago. Now I have two options: either search for another garage that is willing to fix it, which will cost me over £1,400 (or 70% of the car's original price), or try my luck in court with scant evidence, such as the fact that the mechanic has flushed the radiators and coolant and there's antifreeze on a couple of receipts, and his firm denial of any head gasket problems. My head gasket has definitely blown.

just in that situation I paid 2k for it, its in great condition exterior and interior wise but if its gonna need a head gasket my price goes over 3400+ into the car, i like it its cool but they seem to think sold as seen is the be all and end all blocked me on everything, they clearly knew something was wrong, but i mean if the garage says it has been long term there messages about the car when asked direct questions have all been lies so I guess id have to send a letter to them obviously th

You have the option to have the automobile fixed or reject it during the first 30 days if you are insured by CRA. For my part, I'd turn down the automobile completely. They offered it as totally working even though they knew it was a "spares and repairs" vehicle; if you want to reject it for principle or just to be safe, that's OK.

However, in the future, when purchasing an automobile, avoid sellers who attempt to get you to sign a "sold as seen" document. That should raise the most alarm bells in your head. Their message is essentially that "don't bring it back to us" because they know the automobile is in bad shape. While it's common practice for private sales to include an implicit sale, I've never heard of an individual selling their automobile requiring a buyer to sign a document—unless, of course, it's a dealership attempting to pull a fast one.

Is this just any old dealership, even if you call it a garage? Are more vehicles available for purchase? The Consumer Rights Act might apply to you in that case. Please seek the counsel of citizens; I am not an attorney, but I can suggest that you do so.

They simply stated that the car was sold "as seen." However, if the garage informed me that the head gasket was already there before I drove it, then technically they misrepresented the car. I contacted them to enquire about previous mot and repairs because I think the gasket is gone. They called me back saying they didn't know anything and that the car was sold "as seen." The seller must be guilty of misrepresentation and an unfit sale if, after my repeated enquiries, they provide answers such as "no," "not to my knowledge," or "I don't know."

Legally, the vendor can have you sign whatever document they want. Having said that, the buyer assumes most of the risk when making a private transaction.

I have just bought a r53 cooper s 52 plate , I have driven it home and done a couple trips in it less than 450 miles since buying it privately he made me sign a sold as seen , however , I asked the seller multiple times does it have any head gasket issues , both him and his wife both said no I have documented this , the coolant is brown milky it has slight hesitation in first snd second half throttle , the paperwork he gave showed supercharger service , and multiple coolant flushes and a radiator flush 2 years ago , I didnt check the coolant stupidly as he told me there was no issues , theres no mayo under the cap or on the dip stick , could be oil cooler as it hasnt over heated and the needle has never gone a touch over dead centre, and the only smoke is from cold start a slight greying smoke for about 10 seconds or so and none when revved , how would you go about this , is it grounds for misrepresentation as I asked a direct question multiple times, has it been masked by the multiple coolant flushes , advice would be appreciated got a sniff test coming tuesday/Wednesday to do a quick test myself

Apologies, but the amplifier is on the left boot of the 2009 Audi S5.

I assume by "amp" you mean the central unit located in the trunk on the left side? Maybe you could elaborate on the make and model of the car we are considering. Does the date of the errors that return match?

Water damage caused my amplifier to catch fire. I recently had it repaired and attempted to remove all the codes, but they keep showing back up.

I would recommend erasing the errors and rechecking the oecus because all of them are dated 2008.

My car has been acting up ever since I had it painted. And I am at a loss as to how to begin. Can you assist me? Thanks! The alternator and battery are brand new. 02001_No Signal/Communication and 004_Data-Bus Automatic Distance Regulation Status of the Fault: 01100100 Issue Ranking: 1 Issue Recurrence: 5 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 This is the current time: 22:10:29 01336 - Comfort System Company Data Bus 004 - Intermittent No Signal/Communication Stop Motion: Reason for Defect: 00100100 Issue Ranking: 1 Number of Faults: 2 Number of resets: 102 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 October 12, 2008 Now it's 22:54:35 02849-J769) Lane Change Assistance Control Module 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 This is the current time and date: 2008.07.11. Current time: 22:10:24 Assistive Directional Stabilisation Control Module (J759) 02797 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 Current time: 22:10:24 00471 - Control Module for Elect. Dampers that are Regulated (J250) 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 Current time: 22:10:24 01324 - J492 All Wheel Drive Control Module 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 This is the current time and date: 2008.07.11. Current time: 22:10:24 01333 - Rear Left (J388) Door Control Module 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 This is the current time and date: 2008.07.11. Current time: 22:10:24 Rear Right Door Control Module (J389) 01334 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 Current time: 22:10:24 00830 – Top Control Module for Convertible Vehicles (J256) 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 Current time: 22:10:24 Code 01342 - Slave 1 Engine Control Module 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 Current time: 22:10:24 03423 - Vehicle Positioning System Interface Control Module 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 The time is 22 minutes and 10 seconds. Module for Controlling the Rear Lid (J605) - 00317 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 The time is 22 minutes and 10 seconds. 00380 - Unique Vehicle Control Unit (J608) 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 The time is 22 minutes and 10 seconds. The auxiliary heater control module (J364) is referenced as 01207. 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 This is the current time and date: 2008.07.11. The time is 22 minutes and 10 seconds. 01331 - Driver Side Door Control Module (J386) 004 - Intermittent No Signal/Communication Stop Motion: Reason for Defect: 00100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Number of Faults: 10 Number of resets: 102 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 October 12, 2008 Current time is 22:54:33 03395 - High Beam Assistant Control Module 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 In the year 22:10:28 Module for Controlling Air Conditioning Compressor 03408 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 In the year 22:10:28 03407—Electric Drive Control Module 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 In the year 22:10:28 Module for Controlling HV Batteries (03713) 04 - Signal/Communication Missing Stop Motion: Status of the Fault: 01100100 Number of Priorities: 2 Problem Recurrence: 1 Counter reset: 62 Kilometres: 15,140 Display Time: 0 Subject: 2008.07.11 In the year 22:10:28

Does it have any utility in a TTY case? The material of the bolt might change as a result.

According to Google, the bolt dimensions are M14 x 1.5 x 120. Look for M14 x 1.5 x 120 on Google if this is the case. is fine pitch (it doesn't specify, but you may enquire or locate an alternative that does; they're reasonably priced), it ought to fulfil the purpose.

It is highly probable that this is one of those cases where MB part numbers have been revised or replaced.

I'm going to attempt it. I'll try to find out if anyone can retrieve it.

To top it all off, it's over twenty-two quid for a seemingly regular chassis bolt!!! If you know the measurements, your local factor or repair supplier probably has it for a couple of pennies.