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You did everything; thanks for the info. Everything was done in August with the blower and without a hitch! Along with the new water pump, I also constructed the one at the rear out of aluminium. I must have underfilled it, let some air out, and then let it fall. It has worked wonderfully ever since I top-filled it using the bleed screws. Unfortunately, I disconnected the tube that goes to the top of the radiator because I failed to see the bleed screw in the coolant reservoir. There is absolutely no air in the coolant reservoir after today's drive. I did not realise there was no air in it the first time I filled it, but now I know better. Even after an hour on the road today, it was still showing as max queue when I returned home.

I have two points to make: 1. In addition to the plastic pipes in the front and under the supercharger, did you also replace the crossover pipe in the back? In my initial attempt, I only addressed the two primary leaks at the front. However, upon further inspection with a scope, I discovered fluid beneath the supercharger and on the gearbox housing. This led me to the realisation that I needed to address the crossover pipe and the one that connects the oil cooler to the underside of the supercharger. Well, would you believe it? Fluid still needed to be added. At last, I located the source of the leak: the little line exiting the thermostat casing. Then, praise the Lord, it will be sealed. By the way, aside from the thermostat housing, pressure testing was never really useful in locating the other leaks. Under pressure, it is difficult to notice them because either the valley beneath the supercharger or the drop pan beneath the vehicle collects the drips. 2. There are several posts regarding this, but a bleeding process can be used to remove air. There are two ways I do it: first, when I have the vacuum bleeder available; second, after the fact; and third, when I don't. Obtaining a pneumatic vacuum bleeder is clearly the optimal method for removing air from the many air pockets found in the block's hoses and water jackets. The steps to do that are rather obvious. Halfway through, loosen the bolts on the reservoir and raise it as high as possible to make it the system's highest point. Turn off the engine and remove water from each bleeder by cracking open each one, including the one on the water bottle. Before starting the engine and bleeding everything again, make sure the coolant container is full. Raise the temperature of the engine and turn up the heat. After a few minutes of running, you should see solid heat emanating from the vents. After that, you should crack the bleeders again. Refill fluid reservoir and reassemble. Keep it on the road for a week, and then fill up the fluids and crack bleeders again. Additional problems may arise if you continue to experience air.

Yes, it is absolutely insane that the side Rads effectively cool the supercharger. Either there's a leak or I didn't fill it correctly. It took two top-offs before my wife's Fpace's leak became apparent on the front auxiliary cooling system, which is somewhat to the front. I smelt coolant where the car was, so I checked for leaks, but thus yet, nothing has come up.

Effectively, the intercooler circuit is on its own. In this case, it is displayed inverted. The intercooler pump is connected to the top hose, while the two smaller hoses extend from the intercoolers. It is essentially its own circuit, with the exception of a little branch off the radiator hose, that is only connected to aid in filling and bleeding.

Okay, as some of you may recall, I installed a water pump and upgraded all of my coolant pipes to aluminium. It was a problem-free summer. I haven't added coolant since topping it up in the autumn, so it was strange that I had to do it recently. Even though it's winter where I am, I detected the fragrance of coolant and did not detect any leaks after pressurising the system. The headgasket isn't leaking, either. Tomorrow, when it's cold, I'll bleed the system on the reservoir as well and top it off. I should have done that earlier. I may have experienced a vaporous state. I was wondering if the supercharger coolant was on its own loop or if it was mixed all together. I get that the answer is affirmative when taken as a whole, but I don't see why, when the water temperature is normal but the lines leading to the supercharger are very cold, the electric pump is circulating this icy water to keep the supercharger running smoothly, and the water lines are connected to the main coolant line. Two frontal, miniature radiators are used to circulate water using an electric pump that is part of the supercharger. Just so we're clear, the coolant isn't mixing with the other coolant.

The rule from 1998 was completely new to me. I do have a 'unsafe, handbuilt, backyard towbar' that I purchased with the intention of using it with a W123, in case anyone is interested. It could work, but it's drastically simplified compared to the real thing, and my trusted German mechanic in Exeter threatens to shoot me if I try to install a "rubbish UK-made" alternative.

Vehicles registered after August 1, 1998, are the only ones that require towbars to be Euro type approved. Additionally, because W123 stopped being manufactured in 1986, you are free to attach any ill-advised, home-made towbar that you think could work! 😄

MT24, have you ever come across one? I'm on the hunt for something similar, but hen's teeth are so rare! Where could it be, though? I'm sure it exists. I have one that claims to suit a W123, but my technician is adamant that we can only install one that is EURO type-approved, even if it isn't! So it's not used.

https://www.oris-automotive.com/en/retrofit-towbars-for-european-market/detachable-towbars/

In 1987, MB in Tooting installed our 123 280TE towbar—not very practical, I know—but it was an Oris model, and the hook was detachable, so that was a huge plus.

still need to verify if it's the right one

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/11056810868

Towbars for cars that old aren't really common, in my opinion. However, in case it is of assistance, this is listed on eBay.

For towbars, I recommend Witter. I thought they were headquartered out of Chester as well.

Greetings, everyone. I am in the Chester area and I just bought this gorgeous Mercedes-Benz—I've never driven one before, but it's absolutely brilliant. I was wondering if anyone could recommend a product to prevent rust underneath the car and also recommend a reliable installer. I would also like to add a tow bar, so any recommendations for manufacturers, models, or suppliers would be greatly appreciated. Years 1984 (W123–230CE)

How intriguing that the CX-90 completely outshone the Q7 after you upgraded from a 23-year-old Lexus. The CX 90 has a number of quarks, including premium features that aren't up to par with Lexus or Audi, but it's aesthetically pleasing and has a leather inside. Though the brown quilted leather interior of my fully-loaded premium turbo S is stunning, I can't help but believe that it's missing a few high-end features found in the Lexus (even at 23MY) and the updated Q7. Guarantee that your software is flashed and updated correctly. It appears to have eliminated most of the peculiarities, but the gearbox is still really jerky; they called it sporty, but it's more like incredibly choppy. Mazda deserves a lot of credit for their exterior styling, which is noticeably more subdued compared to Lexus and the Q7.

Seems promising; I'll report back next week with the results. The GX460 was a nightmare to drive, and I rarely retain vehicles for more than a few years, so I never had to worry about the GX460 lasting 300,000 miles.

I am relieved that you were able to resolve the issue with your tires, while I am sorry to hear about it. The fact that you could test drive a CX-90 for an extended period of time is fantastic. I can't believe you traded in your Lexus for a CX-90. Never test drove a Highlander or Grand Highlander, and there weren't any for sale in my area, so I opted against purchasing one. Looking back, I think the ride quality would have been too soft.

Greetings everyone! I am new to Mazda and recently got receipt of a brand new 26 CX-90 Premium Sport. Three vehicles were on my radar: the Jeep Grand Cherokee, the Audi Q7, and the Honda Trailsport/Pilot. They were completely outclassed by the Mazda in every way: handling, power, features, and appearance. Also, I had the opportunity to borrow this car for a 500-mile drive on my recent holiday and I absolutely loved it. Along with the favourable lease price and conditions, that was the deciding factor. I am really pleased with my purchase of a Machine Grey Prem Sport. So, here's what went down: I felt a lot of vibration and the trip was overall bumpy. Two days after returning it to the dealership, I discovered that three of the tires were faulty! I will be replacing the set of Toyotas next week. Until then, I am borrowing a gorgeous CX-90 Prem Plus in rhodium. My car is in perfect working order and I can't wait to get it back. Although I am aware that these vehicles can be finicky, I would prefer to cope with a few problems rather than spend all my time fiddling with my automobile. Just so you know, I sold my 23 Lexus GX460 since it was a boring SUV. Anticipating feedback from this community. Best regards.

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Someone ought to know about this and have verified it!

You have my mechanic's gratitude.

My mechanic has received your message of gratitude.

Everyone had a star xentry diagnostic, but I'll have to enquire about the leak off test.

The other possible explanation is a leak back, or excessive leak off. Helpful because it often doesn't display any problems until it won't start at all! If even a single injector fails to attain pressure due to severe leakage back, the entire system will not fire. A single recon injector fixed the issue I was having with my 270 5-pot.