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When installed, it will need to be "coded" to your car, though I'm not sure which one.

Good day. Bluetec c220 from 2015. P220E and P220E77 are the codes that I possess. I can't seem to track down the correct front nox sensor despite being informed that it needs replacing. Both A0009053503 and A0009053603 have been given to me as the front one. Can someone tell me which one it is? Just curious. I would be forever indebted if someone could!

Many have noted that having your vehicle examined by a dealer as soon as possible is a benefit of the JLR warranty with recovery. Otherwise, the dealer may take a few months to look at it, depending on the dealer. With a non-JLR warranty, you won't be tied to an LR dealer, so it's a good choice if you know a reliable independent.

Many thanks. I intend to contact them in December.

The Auto Maintenance Program. The J L R official warranty is administered by them. No rental car, but the cost is less than half of what a JLR warranty would be.

Hello everyone, it appears that later this year I will be seeking an extended warranty. Considering I had a warranty repair at the 2-year service, the idea of running uncovered makes me nervous. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you may have. TIA

The enormous oil consumption and smoke after overrun persisted despite my best efforts to rule out the rings before getting them replaced. I sealed the stems, soaked the pistons twice in as many days, blocked the PCV valves individually, and even adjusted the turbo oil feed restrictor. The fact that I had leak down gear connected proved it in the end; the first cylinder we tried failed miserably at holding pressure, and you could hear the pressure gushing out. You could see oil drops on the cylinder walls with just one stroke of the borescope down there.

All three engines had the same plastic oil rings and turned in the same direction.

I am grateful. There must be a conclusive test before it is shredded.

It's not uncommon for them to all go this route eventually. BMW used plastic-coated metal oil rings, which are terrible. I've seen many cars where the owners have tried stem seals, but the oil consumption remains high. I stay away from bga products these days. These days, FAI is my go-to because it's well-made and just works. It needs a refresh, though, so they can fit better solid rings onto the pistons.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=MINI+N12B14+engine+valve+cover

It is my strong suspicion that the piston rings are knackered and that the rocker cover PCV-BGA are of very poor quality. Stick to brick-and-mortar stores for all of your genuine BMW, FAI, or Febi needs.

SSI Valve Stem Seals Set (16pcs) for Mini Cooper R55 R56 R57 R58; Replaces | OEM 11340033950 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Amazon.co.uk : BGA Mini Cooper parts

Amazon.co.uk : n14 engine

Most likely the final one equipped with the N14 engine. The car is using a lot of oil, around 92,000. Half of the dipstick in 150 miles. The oil has gotten into the spark plugs. All cylinders undergo compression testing at 150 psi. No oil is present in the turbo's intake or boost pipes. Victor Reinz has changed the seals on the valve stems. The intake manifold contains some oil. The PCV valve is an integral part of the rocker top, so I swapped it out. The BGA one, I must admit. Nothing else was available when I needed it. Right now, oil consumption is at an all-time high. I always stay away from BGA components because of the horror stories I've heard. Could it be that it's burning oil from somewhere else, like oil control rings? I want to make sure I get a high-quality cover. Even though it has decent compression. Let me show you my leak down tester. I need conclusive tests with instructions on how to interpret the results before I dismantle the engine.

Exactly the same model with 36,000 miles on it just like this one. This money pit will soon be dumped.

Ignoring worries about hybrid batteries in the future is a smart move. These Hybrid gremlins aren't exclusive to Mazda, in my opinion. Giving up 10 mpg meant simplifying the system and eliminating the need to buy an expensive hybrid battery, both of which I did.

That error message didn't appear until about 30 days after I purchased it used in April. Everything has been running smoothly ever since they changed the battery under the floorboard.

Oh no! Your explanation is much appreciated. The replacement was indeed the sub battery, as confirmed by the dealer when I contacted him. My apologies. We have now swapped out the 12 volt and the sub battery. There was no start-up error message on the day the 12-volt was replaced. Each start the following day brings an error message. On day three, you should see an error message about every other start. Today, after six starts, there was no error message. It seems like things are improving. Returning next Thursday for additional diagnostic testing.

The battery that Mazda charges $250 for is available for less than $40 at Walmart or Amazon, so I would replace it myself if the warranty had expired. As an aside, the main battery of a PHEV is 355V (17.8KW), while the battery of a mild hybrid (one that is not a PHEV) is 48V. Assuming the hybrid battery was replaced under warranty, it's likely that you had multiple faults because Mazda would not have authorised the replacement without the associated testing and codes.

Found in the foot well area of the passenger compartment is the P143B, a 12V sub battery. I will be submitting my 2024 for this code next week. If you need help diagnosing or replacing the sub battery, this video should do the trick:

Amazon.co.uk : Mazda CX-90 PHEV 12 volt car battery

Amazon.co.uk : Mazda CX-90 48 volt battery