All Activity

Hopefully it’s the switch then as you anticipated though a bit strange that hi beam not working?….As Antman suggested, a degree of diagnostics may be necessary...I no longer possess a PC or Forscan, regrettably, so I must depend on local establishments...At least you got it running again & I’m sure all will pan out well…ATVB…..

I accessed the vehicle using the key located at the back of the fob and charged the car overnight.Next morning both fobs worked and car started straight away .Still no light switch connected but when engine starts, lights come on but no main beam available. Turn engine off ,lights go off .No intermittent flashing every ten seconds.Car is as normal apart from no light switch connected 🤷.I am having a new switch installed and connected on Monday morning.

Rain smaller Adapter TT288 | 12V Car Battery AGM Group 48/H6 Car Batteries for select makes and models of Audi, VW, Mercedes Benz, Ford, Kia, and more : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

I appreciate your response.The battery has consistently performed well; I fully charged it on Tuesday nite and drove it yesterday. Upon returning home from work, I will attempt to use the key from the back of the fob to unlock the car, hoping the alarm remains inactive, and then connect the battery to the charger.If it charges, proceed to obtain a diagnostic assessment.

If you charged the battery while it was still connected to a charger exceeding 4 amps, there is a significant likelihood that you have overcharged the battery. I experienced this with a 4 amp charger while I had Covid/flu, and the car was connected to the charger for more than a week. The alarm is likely to activate when you utilise the blade to open it, but remain calm as it will cease once you try to start the vehicle, and the fob should function properly thereafter.My vehicle failed to recognise either of the two fobs, and I discerned that it was in lockdown mode...That is contingent upon the absence of an unrelated problem, evidently…If you suspect the battery is overcharged, activate all lights, hazards, and the heater to prevent any abrupt surge.If it is the same issue I experienced, the battery was overcharged and subsequently discharged itself before recharging repeatedly; if this is indeed the case, you will notice the electrical system behaving somewhat erratically for a period.Engaging in multiple cycles of locking and unlocking, followed by a thorough test run, resolved my issues. Fortunately, the battery remains in good condition…Once more, it is evident that this could be an independent concern, yet I encountered the same issue that resolved on its own…I have previously experienced a similar situation when a window was left slightly ajar while the vehicle remained stationary for approximately two to three weeks…I am uncertain as to why, but it likely influenced the alarm or something similar.The electrical system of the Mondeo appears to exhibit erratic behaviour with minimal provocation…I apologise for not being able to assist further, and I wish you the best in your endeavours...

I appreciate your response.I used the key from the rear of the key fob to open the car yesterday (hoping the alarm doesn't go off) and put the battery on charge. The battery has always been good. I fully charged it on Tuesday nite and drove it yesterday. I will try this when I get home from work.Next, if it starts charging, bring it in for a diagnostic 🤷🫎.

Rain smaller Adapter TT288 | 12V Car Battery AGM Group 48/H6 Car Batteries for select makes and models of Audi, VW, Mercedes Benz, Ford, Kia, and more : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

It might be anything at all. I would only be making educated guesses at this point if I couldn't see and test things. Our neighbour had a Mk3 Focus that was totally dead, just like yours, but we managed to get it started. Now is the time of year when dead batteries really start to cause problems, so that's where my initial thoughts are. What is the battery's age? Is its condition something you've had checked? Like I said before, I would just be speculating about the possible cause of the issue. A correct diagnosis is required. When it came to the light switch, how did you figure out that it was the culprit? Again, I can't be at the car to see the condition or connect a diagnostic device to scan all the modules, so I can only speculate based on your description of the symptoms, particularly after turning off the power.

Hi there.I just had a light switch malfunction two days ago.The lights would remain on indefinitely.A new one was ordered.I turned off the power.I was still able to drive during the day, even though the car kept flashing its lights every 10 seconds.Overnight, I fully charged the battery.It appears the car has gone into shutdown mode; there is no longer any flashing, and I was unable to test start today before work with either of the electrical fob keys.Immediate assistance required.How can I get into the vehicle? Would the alarm go off if I gain access? Unfortunately, I have to leave for work now, and I am really stuck for what to do.I've placed an order for an additional component.

It appears that most people agree that later models use cheaper materials. I didn't have any issues with any of the trims on my 2017 Evoque, so it's likely that they are trying to cut costs.

I simply used auto glym ultra gloss to polish mine, and they look great on my old 2013 Evoque. 😁

Many people have noticed that the gloss black pillars and mirror caps start to take on a blue tint. Fortunately, there are plenty of pillar trims available on sites like Fleebay and other inexpensive repair options.

The paint on the driver's side windshield/door pillar of my 2022 Evoque is peeling off, which I discovered yesterday after washing the vehicle. I took it to my neighbourhood dealer today, and they said the sun's heat is to blame (it's just on the pillar, not anywhere else) and that the warranty doesn't apply since the car is more than three years old. I contacted Landover's customer service department, who basically stated that the product was no longer covered because it was out of warranty. Be wary of delamination in the paintwork of a brand-new or nearly new Range Rover Evoque; according to JLR, it's perfectly OK for the paint to peel.

Thank you, I will remember this.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

Sinoparcel D4S Xenon Bulb, 8000K Ice Blue, 35W, Pack of 2 | Distinctive Appearance, OEM HID Headlight Replacement, MOT Compliant, Compatible with 66440 42402, P32d-5 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

I've always assumed it's the inner arch liners. Those gaps get hit with spray from the rain with a lot of force when you're going fast. Also, check under the bonnet for the lamps. I had an F31 with a hairline crack, so water would pool and seep in. I had an MG ZT with a lost small panel in the arch liner, so there was light moisture. That's why I think it happens to BMW lights and other brands. I sealed the gaps between the arch liners on my F31 with silicone, and it's easy to remove if the insp

I am very grateful for this.

Looking at the joint between the lamp's body and clear lens, you can see that RTV is a silicone sealer. Blurred line connecting black and clear. It's not a big deal to remove the front bumper in order to access the lamps on f10/11.

Thanks, there isn't a tonne of water in the units just yet. Nothing at all, not even warning lights. It seems like this RTV around the joint could be a good preventative measure to try. Would you mind telling me what RTV is and which joint it is?!? Can you tell me how much effort is required to simply gain access to this joint? Pardon me, but I'm not very well-versed in this area. At the time (about February 2026), I took it to a shop in the Midlands, and they repaired it for approximately one-third of what BMW had quoted (£3,000 for a single headlight). I appreciate it once more.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=RTV

Sinoparcel D4S Xenon Bulb, 8000K Ice Blue, 35W, Pack of 2 | Distinctive Appearance, OEM HID Headlight Replacement, MOT Compliant, Compatible with 66440 42402, P32d-5 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

For my instance, I let the lamps dry completely before cleaning the joint between the lens and black body thoroughly to remove any debris. Then, I applied a bead of clear RTV around the joint to seal it.

Greetings everyone The usual water intrusion in one of the headlights occurred in my 2011 535i F11. I would like to assist a relative who has found a 2011 F10 535i in avoiding this situation, if that is at all feasible. Is there anything that can be done, apart from covering the car every time it rains? It's obviously not going to happen. Replace the seals if they have expired? Put a sealant around the unit's perimeter. Does anyone know how to stop or at least slow down the water from entering the car, given that this is a common issue with this model? Much obliged

High noon That was really helpful; I intend to review it over the weekend, weather permitting. I might see if operating the roof while connected to a CTEK charger helps. Do you mean that the roof won't work if the heating element in the back window breaks? Much obliged.