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Indeed, I completed all necessary tasks when I replaced the thermostat, so I believe I am adequately prepared in that regard. I observed typical oil spots around the seal positions, which had been improperly installed. It appears that the new MAF required calibration in my situation.

It is advisable to inspect all o-rings and seals on the turbo outlet (aluminium pipe) leading to the resonator (plastic box at the front of the engine) and the intercooler. I believe your 2010 model possesses the same or a very similar engine as my 2009 E280. I recently completed all my maintenance, and the performance has significantly improved; I previously underestimated its condition, but I now recognise the sluggishness in throttle response and downshifts. Some of these seals may have been compromised during the installation of the new intake; this is how I realised mine required attention, as I subsequently experienced a check engine light owing to many leaks, including a boost leak at the intercooler pipe. I wanted to bring this to your attention, although you may already be aware. Here is a highly beneficial link that I utilised

Disconnected the negative terminal for 20 minutes while replacing the fuel filter today. It is currently idling more effectively.

You may reset it by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes.

I apologise, everyone. I did not receive notifications regarding your responses. I ultimately resolved the issue. The MAF was indeed defective. I purchased a pre-owned Y-Pipe in superior condition than mine, which included one MAF. I transferred my functional MAF to it, and it registered the accurate temperature and airflow measurements. Nonetheless, I occasionally have a minor hitch after startup. During discussions with Avantgarde in Clevedon, they indicated that the adjustments must be recalibrated for optimal performance. The issue is that I currently reside in Scotland, necessitating the search for a reputable independent establishment in Edinburgh. All nearby garages I have approached have provided a standard quotation of approximately £90 for one hour of service. It would be more advantageous for me to purchase a superior fault reader than to spend two minutes having them reset it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=maf sensor&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X96b92f06d27220efcdfdfda1c194c2cf&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Is it necessary to code a new MAF sensor, or is it a plug-and-play component?

It is uncertain if this information would be beneficial, however when my MAF sensor went down due to a missing fuse, a prominent characteristic was difficult upshifts. If your vehicle is an automobile and you are encountering the same issue, it likely indicates a malfunctioning MAF sensor. - supposing that MB configures the gearbox ECU to default to elevated line pressures in the absence of MAF sensor data, as indicated by my 4L 80E.

How is it functioning?Whenever I have experienced MAF failure, the vehicles operated quite poorly.

I have recently replaced the temperature sensor, and I am not surprised that it did not resolve the issue. I have observed that when I disconnect Sensor A, its temperature remains at 79°C whereas Sensor B decreases to 21°C. Upon disconnecting Sensor B, both temperatures stabilise at 79°C. The subsequent course of action appears to be attempting a costly MAF replacement, unless someone possesses other insights.

Greetings, everyone. I am receiving many trouble codes on my 2010 E350. The initial focus is on the Air Intake Temperature sensor, which I intend to replace due to the original appearing contaminated, and the cost is sufficiently low. I was informed that the codes are associated with a defective MAF sensor. Enclosed are the codes and the real-time readings from my Maf sensors. Unplugging sensor B results in a value of 0g. Upon disconnecting Sensor A, the readout displays 166g, while Sensor B subsequently increases to 8g. I am willing to invest in a replacement MAF sensor, but I seek guidance before making any purchases.

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The warning is currently absent.

Will it continue to operate effectively despite the spun bearings? Do you not believe that the servicing on Friday will be beneficial?

The few instances in which I have observed the N47 producing that error, despite an adequate oil level, occur when the oil has not been changed for an extended period, resulting in sludge accumulation. I do not wish to be pessimistic, but it often did not take long until the bearings failed.

The oil level is adequate; nevertheless, the oil appears excessively dark and thin, suggesting it has not been changed for an extended period. A service appointment is scheduled for Friday.

Did you verify the oil level?

I seek advice regarding a recent experience. I undertook a 240-mile journey, and five miles from home, the low oil pressure warning illuminated on the dashboard for ten seconds before extinguishing. The vehicle continued to operate normally without any unusual noises. This morning, it is functioning without any warning lights. I lack service history for the car, so I am unaware of the last service date. I plan to change the oil and filter today.

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Be advised that if sensor codes are being triggered infrequently, it is often indicative of an alternative component being worn rather than a faulty sensor. It is advisable to retrieve any codes and share them here so that I or another someone may assist you.

I have heard extensive praise about WordSmith; I eagerly anticipate delivering it to him.

Upon its return from WordSmith, it will appear as new.

I will be utilising @WordSmith in the near future for a comprehensive engine refresh, and I am eagerly anticipating it. I am attempting to acquire knowledge regarding the engine components of the Mini, as my activities primarily involve reading and seeing films related to my car model.

Greetings. I am a novice in mini ownership and I thoroughly enjoy it. Could somebody provide photos depicting the names and locations of all the sensors on my mini, please? Thank you.