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Warranty for rust prevention and treatments available at other locations.


Motoman

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The MB E250 CDi in my possession is a 63-Reg model from 2013, making it a decade old. I am completely free of rust and Mercedes-Benz has a corrosion guarantee of 30 years. Therefore, in principle, there are still 20 years remaining on the corrosion warranty.

It is evident that I have long been aware of the tendency for MB automobiles to acquire corrosion in the wheel arches, particularly around the curved lip. Therefore, I am vigilant in monitoring this issue. Last week, when washing the automobile, I directed the high-pressure stream beneath the curved edges of the car's body, causing a significant amount of wet dirt to fall from the folded area.

I was taken aback since I believed that the plastic wheel arch protectors formed a snug seal with the arch lip fold. Furthermore, what is the purpose of plastic wheel arch protectors if they fail to prevent water and road salt from reaching the metal?The user's text is enclosed in tags. I am unable to comprehend it.

I had been contemplating enrolling in a DINITROL corrosion-proofing course. The nearest Service Centre to my location is in Scotland. They provided a quotation of £700+VAT for a comprehensive service, including the wheel arches, boot well, under-chassis, and door insides. The automobile will be out of service for a whole duration of 5 days, necessitating the need for me to schedule a vacation in order to accommodate this.

I am neither enthusiastic about the price, nor the extended duration (5 days) required for completion. Thus I also contemplated doing the wheel arches myself using the DINITROL DIY KITS and have the Service Centre to handle the rest.

However, there are certain inquiries that need to be raised, for which I lack the knowledge to provide a response:

    I am uncertain if doing this action will void the Mercedes Corrosion Warranty.If I choose not to take action and instead depend on Mercedes to fulfil their responsibility in the event of corrosion occurring during the remaining 20-year corrosion guarantee, can I trust that Mercedes-Benz will really fulfil their obligation?If I have the DINITROL treatment, despite it voiding the MB Warranty, would it be a more advantageous investment to prevent a much larger repair cost in case Mercedes refuses to honour the Warranty?

I am aware that DINITROL is of high quality. The recommended treatment for all military vehicles in the UK MOD as well as NATO is universally applied.

May I inquire about your opinion on this matter?

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What is the duration of your automobile ownership plan?

If just a few years have passed, then there is no need to take any action. If you want to retain it for a duration of 10 years or more, then investing in DINITROL (or a comparable alternative) would be a prudent decision. However, it is impossible to ascertain definitively if it would have any discernible impact.

Mercedes will allow repairs which adhere to their terms & conditions, although be aware that it won’t cover all sorts of rust or corrosion, but that will be the relative minority of instances.

This solely pertains to the process of metalwork perforating caused by internal corrosion. Therefore, even if your automobile has undergone annual inspections by a certified dealer, they will not address any external corrosion issues.

If your automobile has a comprehensive service history from an authorised dealer and is relatively recent, there is a possibility that they may undertake the repair of various forms of rust and corrosion as a gesture of goodwill. However, it is becoming more uncommon for this to occur.

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Applying any of that substance on your automobile would immediately void any rust guarantee provided by MB.

This car is a contemporary vehicle. However, it is important to be vigilant for subframe corrosion, which is a distinct issue. Ensure that the car is kept clean and avoid unnecessary interference. Given the expected duration of your ownership, the car should remain in good condition.

Considering that the automobile runs on diesel and is probably not in compliance with Euro 6 standards, it is quite improbable that you will retain ownership of this vehicle for a period of 20 years.

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In addition to my fondness for Mercedes-Benz vehicles, I am a devoted enthusiast of Alfa Romeo cars, and thus, I am well acquainted with Dinitrol. In my opinion, these products demonstrate exceptional efficacy. Additionally, it would be prudent to take into account the potential benefits of using ACF50. For many years, I kept my Ducati motorcycle outside at my previous residence, and the use of ACF50 effectively prevented any rust from occurring. If you want to use either product, it is advisable to heat the cans in hot water before to use, since the consistency of the items can be fairly thick.

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The 30-year corrosion guarantee is contingent upon the automobile receiving maintenance and inspection only from authorised Mercedes Benz dealerships. Failure to adhere to this requirement, such as missing a service or obtaining service from a different provider, would result in the nullification of the 30-year warranty.

My 2006 C55 AMG is exhibiting indications of corrosion on its body, a common issue with S203 models in the UK, although there are few exceptions. Given that my vehicle has accumulated over 150,000 kilometres and lacks a complete service history from Mercedes-Benz, I see little use in bringing it to them for repairs.

Applying any kind of anti-corrosion paint or chemical is very likely to void any existing warranty on the vehicle. In recent times, it is my belief that MB, or the business sector, has a greater number of legal and financial professionals compared to engineers. These individuals dedicate their working hours to evading accountability for any technical errors that may have occurred in the past.

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I strictly adhere to the Mercedes service plan, entrusting all maintenance tasks to the same authorised dealer. My W203 vehicle was treated with utmost care and attention, with the dealer handling every aspect of its maintenance.

However, when the rusting began at around 8 years of age, it was not covered under warranty since it had not caused the metal to develop holes from the outside inward. I opted to personally handle the task of organising everything, and they executed it admirably.

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Typically, I maintain ownership of an automobile for a duration of 3 to 5 years. I would recommend considering a DINITROL treatment specifically targeting the wheel arches, since corrosion tends to manifest in this area first in a significant proportion of instances, based on visual observations.

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If the paintwork develops bubbles, it will eventually puncture. In my opinion, Mercedes seems to have a limited perspective on this matter. Currently, my automobile exhibits no indications of rust whatsoever, in any location. I am sceptical after extensively removing damp muck from the crease of the wheel arch lip.

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Indeed, the vehicle has a comprehensive MB Service History, covering the majority of its lifespan from its first registration in December 2013. Additionally, it has been serviced by a specialised garage specifically for Mercedes-Benz vehicles. Therefore, considering the age of 10, I would not rely on the trustworthiness of MB benevolence.

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I am unfamiliar with ACF50. Is it safe to heat the cans by immersing them in hot water? What is the specific method you use to go forward? What is the optimal temperature for the water?
I am contemplating the possibility that the contents of the can expand as the temperature rises, perhaps leading to the chance of the can bursting or experiencing a similarly unpleasant outcome.

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There exists an EU Directive that prohibits automobile manufacturers from invalidating warranties if a car is fixed at a different location. I am uncertain about the revocation of the Directive after Brexit, given I lack comprehensive knowledge of its specific provisions. The age of my automobile is 10 years, with a mileage of around 36,000 kilometres. Thus far, there is no evidence of rust. However, I am expecting the typical progression of events with the wheel arches. The mileage will have no significance whatsoever.

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I would want to express my sincere gratitude to each and every one of you for the valuable insights and perspectives that you have generously offered. It is highly valued.

Overall, I believe that completing a whole treatment cycle is unlikely. However, I am considering proactively treating the wheel arches as a preventive measure, in order to address the issue before it worsens and causes the paintwork to bubble. Currently, there are almost no visible indications of rust whatsoever. Everything is seamless and delightful.

Upon seeing the mud trapped, I pondered if these plastic wheel arch linings are really more detrimental than having the arch exposed, therefore facilitating the removal of road debris by washing. Indeed, if the lining fails to establish an impermeable barrier with the folded lip of the arch, the purpose of having a protective lining becomes questionable.

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Regarding the heating of aerosol cans in water I often engage in activities such as paint spraying and similar tasks. Merely immersing the cans in hot water from the faucet in the sink for a duration of 5 minutes is sufficient to decrease the thickness of the paint or substance being sprayed, as well as somewhat elevate the pressure inside the can. By doing so, you may get a far superior spray. This becomes more significant when the can becomes empty and the pressure naturally decreases. There is no possibility of causing the can to explode, and so forth. However, it is advisable to prevent any contact between water and the cap. I have discovered that ACF50, which exhibits high viscosity and stickiness at low temperatures, is quite advantageous. If the temperature is too low, the substance from the spray can may be emitted in a concentrated flow rather than a dispersed spray.

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According to the terms and conditions, the need is for the material to develop holes as a result of corrosion starting from the inside side of the panel. The presence of surface rust on the outside, which may be remedied by sanding, does not meet the criteria for qualification. This is because it is susceptible to damage from stone chips, environmental elements, and other conditions, as explicitly mentioned in rejected claims.

If there is now no evidence of corrosion, then by the time it becomes visible, it will have reached an age where even the courts would struggle to rule in favour of the customer. Failing to undergo an annual corrosion inspection conducted by the authorised dealer would invalidate any official guarantee that may have been provided with your vehicle at purchase. Additionally, if you do not use the authorised dealer for maintenance services, there would be no commercial motivation to provide any type of goodwill gesture.
 

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There must be a method to prevent moist mud, salt, and road debris from being trapped between the liner and the wheel arch. In my honest view, the design is problematic due to the presence of a gap that is sufficiently wide to allow wet material to enter, but too small for the debris to fall down and for air circulation to effectively dry the area between the liner and the wheel arch. This results in a consistently moist mass in direct contact with the metal arch above the liner, which poses a significant risk as it will certainly expedite the process of rust formation on the wheel arch, especially in the folded lip area.

A resolution must be sought to address this issue. From a manufacturer's technical perspective, Mercedes and other companies employ a sufficient number of engineers with AutoCAD expertise who are capable of designing a wheel arch liner that effectively addresses this issue. Additionally, they possess the necessary materials to seal the gap and remove any space between the liner and the wheel arch. As someone with expertise in Oil/Gas & Petrochemicals Industrial IT Engineering, I can suggest two or three compressible and hydrophobic insulating materials that can be used to fill the gap between the liner and wheel arch. Additionally, there are a few acrylic 'permanent-tack' pastes that can be used to create a seal between the wheel arch lip fold and the edge of the liner.

Meanwhile, I will examine this matter in my vehicle to see if any improvements can be made.
 

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If you possess the capability and necessary resources to customise your automobile according to your exact preferences, I would strongly recommend proceeding without any hesitation. There is likely a deliberate purpose behind the absence of a completely airtight connection between the arch liner and bodywork. Therefore, making modifications to your own vehicle may involve a compromise, since resolving one problem might potentially lead to the emergence of another.

If I were to speculate, I would suggest that the purpose of the opening is to facilitate the escape of water and moist air, as well as to prevent condensation. Engineers likely believe that, overall, it is more beneficial to allow some water and dirt to enter easily, rather than restricting the flow of dirt, moist air, and water.
 

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Having considered it, I agree with your viewpoint. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the configuration of the wheel arch. I haven't really examined the matter, hence I lack knowledge on the subject.

What I am aware of is that the liner is distinct from the coachwork wheel arch panel, which has an upward-folded inner lip on the arch. The crevice allows for the accumulation of mud, which remains moist.

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I plan to capture photographs upon doing a thorough examination of the matter, with the intention of visually depicting the problem. Additionally, if feasible, I will include photographs showcasing the remedy that has been implemented.

However, I anticipate that after the liners are taken out, the whole arches of the 4 wheel cavities will need to be subjected to:

    Perform a thorough cleaning with a powerful and effective degreaser, such as Bilt Hamber - Surfex HD;After applying the degreaser, the surface was thoroughly cleaned using a steamer.If there is any free rust, it must be removed by brushing it off with a firm brass brush, followed by steam-rinsing and allowing it to dry. Apply rust converter and wait till it is fully cured and completely dry...Apply a rush inhibiting primer and paint, preferably a 2-in-1 product, to the surface. Finally, use DINITROL to thoroughly coat the inner arch lip fold, ensuring that it remains in its original configuration as provided by Mercedes.

The wheel arch liners:

    Thoroughly clean both sides of each liner using the same degreaser, namely Bilt Hamber - Surfex HD, as I am familiar with it. I use it for pre-cleaning the engine bay before doing a detailed cleaning.Rinse the liners using a steamer on both sides of each liner and allow them to dry.Apply an appropriate substance, such as ACF50, to the exterior surface of the liners, namely the side that faces the wheel arch cavity.Reinstall the liners.The user did not provide any text.

The technique should enable me to measure the extent of the space between the liner and the exposed wheel arch, as well as determine if there are any delicate components affixed to the exposed wheel arch or whether it is only composed of metal. Another inquiry pertains to the presence of a drainage aperture located at the rear end, on both sides of the suspension sub-assemblies, which allows for the passage of liquid between the liner and the wheel arch. If present, it could be feasible to use a conventional hose pressure sprayer to expel any foreign particles that enter the crevice, since they would hypothetically pass through to the rear.

Undoubtedly, it will be disorderly.

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