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I switched it out, and now everything is working well. Every word you said was correct. Much obliged.

🫠

Much obliged. To double-check that, I'll also grab one from the breakers. Is complete failure a possibility with them?

Greetings everyone There are a couple of hiccups that require fixing, but overall, I got a great deal on a beautiful E61 BMW. The driver window switch is the first thing I need to fix if I ever want to use the drive-through 😂 Let me tell you where I am: Even though it doesn't work, the switch does light up. The passenger door switch raises and lowers the passenger window, while the rear two remain fixed (perhaps because the driver's switch had disabled them). By pressing the lock/unlock button on the keychain, you may adjust the height of all four windows. Both of the electronic folding mirrors in the vehicle are fully operational. No LIN communication to the switch block is the reason for the 93CB error code as reported by INPA. The driver's door card has obviously been removed at some point; the top light doesn't work, and the lock appears to be fused in the up position, even though the car locks and unlocks without a hitch. I'm going to give this a shot: To check whether it helps, unplug the mirrors. To find the source of the short, follow the door's cables. Is anything needed or am I heading in the correct direction? A heartfelt "thank you" to everyone.

I have two points to make: 1. In addition to the plastic pipes in the front and under the supercharger, did you also replace the crossover pipe in the back? In my initial attempt, I only addressed the two primary leaks at the front. However, upon further inspection with a scope, I discovered fluid beneath the supercharger and on the gearbox housing. This led me to the realisation that I needed to address the crossover pipe and the one that connects the oil cooler to the underside of the supercharger. Well, would you believe it? Fluid still needed to be added. At last, I located the source of the leak: the little line exiting the thermostat casing. Then, praise the Lord, it will be sealed. By the way, aside from the thermostat housing, pressure testing was never really useful in locating the other leaks. Under pressure, it is difficult to notice them because either the valley beneath the supercharger or the drop pan beneath the vehicle collects the drips. 2. There are several posts regarding this, but a bleeding process can be used to remove air. There are two ways I do it: first, when I have the vacuum bleeder available; second, after the fact; and third, when I don't. Obtaining a pneumatic vacuum bleeder is clearly the optimal method for removing air from the many air pockets found in the block's hoses and water jackets. The steps to do that are rather obvious. Halfway through, loosen the bolts on the reservoir and raise it as high as possible to make it the system's highest point. Turn off the engine and remove water from each bleeder by cracking open each one, including the one on the water bottle. Before starting the engine and bleeding everything again, make sure the coolant container is full. Raise the temperature of the engine and turn up the heat. After a few minutes of running, you should see solid heat emanating from the vents. After that, you should crack the bleeders again. Refill fluid reservoir and reassemble. Keep it on the road for a week, and then fill up the fluids and crack bleeders again. Additional problems may arise if you continue to experience air.

If I had to choose, I'd choose option 3 since it restores the vehicle to its factory condition. I am unsure about the DAB problem, however you might ask Integrated Automotive or Command UK about it. Additionally, after five years of driving a Mercedes with the wheel-shaped interface and the same amount of time behind the wheel of a car with a touchscreen, I can say with confidence that the latter is far more convenient, particularly when behind the wheel. In my opinion, touchpads are more efficient than touchscreens.

It is logical. I maintain low revolutions until the engine reaches optimal temperature, but I desire the ability to swiftly transition to peak performance when necessary.

Is that due to the impossibility of accomplishing it with Bimmercode, among other tools?

It certainly impacts my 435d. Activating sport mode via the button results in a gear reduction. When I shift the gear selector to sport mode, it downshifts by one further gear. I have also attempted various 0-60 times, as I have recently acquired the car and am experimenting with it. In sport mode with the standard gearbox, I achieved approximately 6 seconds. In sport mode, the gearbox reduced the times to approximately 5 seconds.

I am unfamiliar with BMW and have no prior experience in coding. Is it possible to program the vehicle so that engaging the gear selector into sport mode instantly transitions the car into sport driving mode? I cannot recall a scenario in which I would like expedited changes without also seeking enhanced throttle response; thus, it would be advantageous to simply switch the gear selector to sport mode to optimise performance for overtaking manoeuvres. Alternatively, am I incorrectly utilising the drive mode selector? When I engage the sport mode via the button, the throttle response appears enhanced, and the gearbox downshifts. However, I assume it is also necessary to convert the gearbox to sport mode for optimal performance?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=hydraulic pump&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512X15f9424cb9ef231bf945a69350b2210c&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

I believe he implies it is not accelerating. It must be connected to observe the situation. Typically, there is a malfunction of the hydraulic pump.

My annual mileage is comparable to yours, hence I concur that the additional expense will be justified, as will the increased frequency of oil changes. Thank you for your contribution.

I was unaware that fuel from supermarkets differs from that obtained at petrol stations. Two years between services is excessive; I schedule mine every eight to ten months. I might not have been deterred from purchasing an Evoque, but I regret having read about the issues associated with it. I simply need to wait for the appropriate opportunity.

Greetings to everybody, I am new to the site as I am seeking to acquire an Evoque; however, I have read that the Ingenium engine may experience issues with inadequate regeneration and premature timing chain deterioration. If I get a vehicle with little mileage and a comprehensive service history, can I circumvent these problems?

Finally returned to a residence where I can accommodate a second vehicle, so seeking to acquire a convertible Mercedes. It has been eight years since I disposed of my exquisite SLK32, which appears to have undergone a plate change since it has vanished. I would consider another vehicle, but I have always desired the R171 SLK55, which is my primary choice. The prices for the 32 models are quite variable, they take considerable time to sell, and most exhibit bodywork deficiencies, which I like to avoid; I prefer any rust to be concealed on the subframe. The 55 models with around 70,000 miles are priced between £14,000 and £16,000. Conversely, there are some questionable options available on eBay priced between £8,000 and £9,000. There are several potentially altered ones for around £16,000. I am seeking a vehicle within the £10,000 to £12,000 range, prioritising condition above mileage. I have observed several properties that have remained on the market for an extended period without selling, as well as those with seemingly unrealistic pricing. There is a listing on eBay for a vehicle that has accumulated 152,000 kilometres and has been declared a total loss, priced at £12,500. I am not interested in that specific option; nevertheless, I believe that if a quality, low-mileage vehicle can be had for £15,000, a high-mileage, written-off vehicle should be far less, and I would anticipate a price closer to the £8,000-£9,000 area. What is the anticipated cost for a vehicle with a clean history and in excellent condition that has exceeded 100,000 miles? Is my money insufficient to acquire a satisfactory option?

Thank you. I have encountered a defective pump just once, which ceased operation prematurely, long before reaching full capacity. As you said, the first click and stop is the only method. I can visibly see gasoline in the filler pipe when my tank is full.

I must confess this is my first Range Rover after several VAG vehicles, and indeed, it is prone to spillage if one is not cautious. In all my other cars, one may somewhat nibble it after the initial click, but this is not the case with the Evoque.

Thank you.

Could you provide a link to the kit?

What alternatives were you anticipating?

Our 2012 Sportage is equipped with sheepskin mats on the seats. Comfortable bottoms throughout the year! Menus and sub-menus? We obtain those at a restaurant. Elegance resides in simplicity.

Could the blue tank SCR issue be added? Is the tank devoid of contents?

Any dashboard lights illuminated. As previously mentioned, you may get a complimentary diagnosis.

However, there is an additional anomaly... after replacing the screen, I am unable to access the diagnostic menu (by using the three-button combo). Does anybody else have this issue? I want further information on this matter. It would be intriguing to ascertain the method by which the screen is allocated to the new screen pin; a circuit diagram would be beneficial. There may be other individuals present who want a resolution. Salutations to everybody.