CyberNinja

It's part of the job, and it can happen to any automobile, old or new. Just ask any technician about seized, rounded, or stripped bolts. They are typically not a problem if you have the correct equipment and knowledge, provided you have at least fair access.

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Your predictive text's ability to transform "Viofo" into "Voodoo" is very remarkable.

Downtown Blackvue. Our Viofo cameras are second to none.

A week after I swapped out the primary battery for my glc 350, the capacitor pack gave out. The previous owner sold it after using it as a school run taxi for their children, but getting only 18 mpg in over 7,000 km.

Behind the glove box, there could be an auxiliary battery in the form of a capacitor pack. On one of the entrance pillars should be a 3D barcode; scanning it will reveal the exact location of the batteries.

This man has the same problem, but he hasn't explained how he fixed it.

Much obliged for the response. There was clearly not enough water to cover the intake area... I'm almost certain it isn't hydrolocked. Underneath these vehicles, you could find the ECU, which might be damaged by water or some wiring.

Hi there, everyone. Excuse me, but I was hoping someone could lend me a hand. The other night, I was commuting for two hours in my 2017 Mercedes C63S while the weather was absolutely horrible. As soon as I over a couple small puddles and entered the highway, a red battery warning light came on and the power went off. I park on the side of the road and turn off the engine. Once again, the car wouldn't crank or start. I charged the battery after arriving back home, but it still hasn't worked. It appears to be operational in every other way, but it simply refuses to crank. On the dashboard, I am seeing a few of warnings... Electronic rear axle differential lock is not functioning, traction control is not working, etc. I ran a quick scan and received a few codes... There is an issue with communication with the "combustion engine" control unit (U010031). We are unable to receive the signal. U010029 There is an issue with communication with the "combustion engine" control unit. Something is wrong with the signal. Is anyone else familiar with this? We would really appreciate any assistance you can provide.

Since it's implausible that two bulbs would undergo that at the same time, it casts doubt on my theory of a clogged breather system.

I was wondering whether there was some sort of breather device built in to let out any trapped water vapour. What makes these lights identical? A thorough STAR diagnosis is required to determine the source of the ILS not working message; nevertheless, considering the quantity of condensation, it is highly probable that the levelling motor has failed. I wish you the best of luck with the solution.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=camshaft&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xe27ca5806d5d446030934724fa6cdf0a&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

Good day! You can't go wrong with genuine Febi goods. Keep an eye out for fakes sold on eBay. I just changed all four camshaft sensors on my m157 since I found out one of them was leaking oil. After doing some additional research, I discovered that they were more fairly priced on Autodoc, therefore I ended up buying mine from the MB dealership instead. Continental is the brand of tires that appears on the MB OEM sensors. Some bunches from 63motorsport are a good investment, in my opinion. It will aid in preventing oil from possibly making its way up the wiring loom and into the ecu.

In that circumstance, I'd expect to see a lot of combustion gas exiting. Perhaps the oil could even be redirected? Probably a cam cover that's leaking.

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For the sake of curiosity, whatever region of Italy are you currently in?

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I simply used the rubber "gasket" that came with the thermostat instead of sealant. The mating surface should only be clean and flat. For less than a main dealer and with MB Club Discount, I purchased my stat from www.eurocarparts.com. Use the code mbclub25 when you check out.

This "How To" instruction should be useful for anyone considering doing the task themselves, since many people have been enquiring about engine running temps lately. Someone on another MB Forum generously provided me with this fantastic guide, and I simply wanted to say thank you. It could be worth it to change the oil filter at the same time since the operation is considerably easier with it off. Handle with care because the filter housing is made of plastic and is reused. (I did the oil change as well). Replacement of the C270 CDI W203 thermostat. The C220 CDi W203 appears identical. Equipment needed: a ratchet and an extension bar, preferably with a ½" drive, and a length of 4′′ or 6′′. These are the socket sizes: 6mm, 7mm, and 8mm. Housing socket for oil filters. The ideal Star/Torq bits are E12 and T27, which are ½" drive sizes. Joey is just right. Proper axle supports. Scraper for soft materials. Food items: Ice Melt Degreaser Cloth that is lint free Dental floss Thermostat Gasket and Housing. The oil filter housing's "O" ring! (If you think it's worth it to change the rusty pipe between the house and the block all at once) This is what the novices try... To keep the coolant from leaking out of the under-tray tray... The first step is to use axle stands to raise the vehicle. Make sure you have enough space to lift the engine out of the undercarriage using an 8-millimeter socket. Starting at the top, use the T27 socket to remove the engine covers. Determine what you can remove to simplify the task at hand. Going from the gasoline filter to the pump, I chose to disconnect the fuel delivery pipe. To prevent dirt from getting inside, I removed it from the fuel filter can and sealed the exposed hole. Additionally, I used a T12 to secure what appears to be a test point that I removed. The fuel rail sensor cables were also disconnected by me. Open the header tank to release system pressure after the engine has cooled. I turned off the water mains after that. WARNING: The system may still be under pressure. First, I used a 6mm socket to remove the little bore from the header tank. After that, the 7mm socket leads to the radiator via the large bore hose. The fuel cooler is reached by means of an additional tiny bore pipe. I decided it would be a good idea to remove any debris and grime from the region before removing the housing bolts. Keeping impurities out of my coolant pipes. After using a tooth brush and a water-washable degreaser to scrub the area, I rinsed it off with clean water. A further "hose" can be found beneath the thermostat casing; bring it to your attention. Flared ends adorn this rigid 2 or 2 1/2" hose. The clamping force between the thermostat housing and engine block is all that's needed to keep it in place. I reused the hose, but if you want to replace it, now is a good time to do it. The only way to modify it is to remove the housing. Keep in mind that this hose will detach after the housing is unscrewed. You should also inspect the state of your hoses at this time. Take the sensor cable out of the enclosure. Use a little screwdriver to push the little clip release. One E12 bolt is on top, and two are below; locate them. In an effort to avoid accidental drops, leaks, and other problems, I refrained from removing the oil filter housing. Removing this made my life lot easier, as I soon realised. After I took it off, I used a lint-free cloth to tightly wrap the exposed part and climbed over to prevent any bits from falling in. Remove by cautiously cracking off the bolts one at a time using a size E12 torq bit. I had to use considerable force to pry my housing off the block. The aforementioned "short stiff hose" immediately set out on its own as it became free. Declining the engine's side. When taking the housing apart, remember this. Be cautious not to scratch the metal surface as you use a cloth and scraper to clean up the area. It should go without saying that you shouldn't hurt the face! The replacement component will have a rubber gasket; install it. As you insert the "short stiff hose" into the corresponding hole in the block, carefully position the housing so that the "short stiff hose" lies in the housing's bottom opening; do this while avoiding obstacles like a fuel rail. When everything is in place, insert the bolts into the housing and tighten them. Verify that the housing is perpendicular to the block and that the "short stiff hose" is securely attached. When you're satisfied, tighten the bolts; but, be careful not to strip the threads by going too far, since you're forcing a strong bolt into a soft block. A torque of 9 Nm is recommended. Get a new housing for the oil filter right away. Reduced torque to 25 Nm. I should have gotten a fresh 'O' ring, according to the rules. While shopping for a thermostat, you can consider adding this to your wish list. Reattach all of the hoses once they are snug. Simultaneously, I replaced the clips on my hoses. The big radiator hose was the last thing I attached. Prior to replacement, I will attempt to fill this hose with coolant. Make a mixture of coolant once all the hoses are reattached. I was able to pour three litres into the top hose before it began to leak out of the housing. Secure the hose and clip. Fill up the tank on top. Mounted behind the headlamp on the driver's side of the C270 is an electric water pump. (I looked at my C220 CDI W203 and couldn't find a pump like that.) Turning the key starts it up. In the off chance that it would aid in releasing air locks, I let it run for ten minutes. Once the gargling became excessive, the sounds ceased. I proceeded to start the vehicle and let it to warm up. It seems like the car is heating up and cooling down normally, and I don't have any air locks, either. If you're paranoid (like me), check the header tank levels and keep an eye out for leaks throughout the following few days of running. So that I could look for leaks, I left the engine covers off. Nothing has gone wrong after 600 miles. In comparison, my automobile reaches 80 degrees in 15 minutes at 60 miles per hour, with an ambient temperature of 5 to 6 degrees Celsius, and it starts to warm up in about 10 minutes. The temperature ranges from 85 to 95 degrees Celsius. For anyone who has never changed a thermostat before, I hope this serves as a warning. It will save you £185 in labour costs.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267238281445?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X8d119b786ed7e7dec575216ee62d050c&subId2=15

Thank you for the detailed explanation; I found it both easy to understand and useful. Leave mine alone, and the bags will deflate, which is both good and harmful.

How were the results? This summer, I have this task to complete. Understood, the diagnostic procedure does really relieve pressure from the valve.

?? With even a little bit of excess force, these thin glow plugs will twist and deform.

Every glow plug I've ever used has had the voltage printed on it. Without glow plugs, the greatest voltage output measurement would serve as a solid reference; nevertheless, I am not very knowledgeable about controllers. Remember to turn off the ignition for that.

Glow plugs come with two different voltage ratings. Regardless of the plugs you've used, make sure the controller is compatible. Proceed with caution when verifying diagnostic output. With time, the voltage at the output should decrease.