dave783

Primary statistic. I purchased one from ECP, and it lasted only 9 miles until the car reached temperature and then became stuck in the open position. While not advocating for the payment of BMW tax, consider acquiring a quality product from MAHLE. MEYLE is my preference.

I had it changed at a BMW dealership, with the cost covered by BMW; nonetheless, this issue predated the EGR repair.

It is a two-wheel drive.

Greetings everyone, I possess a 2016 BMW 2 Series Gran Tourer with a 1.4L diesel engine and automatic gearbox, accommodating seven passengers. At low speeds (below 20 mph), particularly in stop-and-go traffic, the gearbox occasionally jerks violently, resembling the sensation of being struck from the front or rear. I have infrequently received a "Transmission too hot" warning, which dissipates within seconds. I had not seen it for six months; nonetheless, I encountered those individuals today when travelling through the town this afternoon. A BMW dealership reported that they conducted an inspection and found no apparent problems or warning codes. Another mechanic recommended a complete gearbox replacement, estimated at between £5,000 to £6,000, which seems like a significant increase. Has anyone encountered a similar situation or possess any insights regarding the potential cause? Your feedback is appreciated - thank you!

I initially proposed that to one of the mechanics working on the vehicle; however, he insisted on cleaning the heater core first, as he prefers not to replace components unnecessarily. Well, it is completed now.

I have resolved the issue. Despite purging both heater matrices of the Vito and refilling the coolant using a vacuum pump system for £120, the issue persists. I changed the water pump, which appeared to resolve the issue. I appreciate everyone's assistance.

It is the 2.1 Merc engine. Automated.

I considered the possibility of an airlock; however, the coolant level has consistently remained adequate, and there have been no recent alterations that would precipitate an airlock, unless it is feasible for one to occur spontaneously. Nonetheless, I will conduct a comprehensive coolant flush to eliminate any airlock; I am uncertain about the complexity of the procedure, so it is prudent to entrust it to professionals. I will thereafter provide a report here.

Greetings, everyone! I am experiencing a perplexing problem with my 2018 Mercedes Vito Minibus W447. I have been experiencing random fluctuations in the temperature gauge. This weekend, I undertook an extensive 15-hour drive, and here are my observations. Temperature decline: When travelling at a constant pace of 70 mph or maintaining a consistent RPM, the temperature gauge will remain at the standard 90 degrees. However, when I attempt to activate the heater, it emits frigid air. Upon momentarily releasing the throttle or shifting into neutral on downhill gradients, the heater resumes heating, while the temperature gauge descends to just over 40 degrees and fluctuates between 40 and 80 degrees for approximately one minute. There will be a little fluctuation before stabilising around 80 degrees and ultimately reaching 90 degrees when I resume normal driving. The heater will remain warm for around 15 minutes, sufficient to provide warmth once more. The temperature rises: When travelling at a steady motorway pace (50-70 mph), the temperature gauge remains normal at 90 degrees; however, upon applying additional power, such as during overtaking or ascending a hill, the gauge exceeds 90 degrees. I would hear the fan activate. The amount of power applied, the incline of the slope, and the duration of power application will influence whether the temperature reaches 120 degrees or above. However, it will descend rapidly when I reduce the throttle. When the temperature exceeded 120 degrees on the freeway, I had a complete loss of throttle response; regardless of my actions with the throttle, the van did not respond and began to decelerate. I had to stop on the hard shoulder for a few seconds, and it was only after the temperature approached 90 degrees that I regained throttle control. I have replaced one thermostat, but it did not yield any improvement. I possess a Xentry device, and no fault codes are displayed. I lack mechanical expertise, hence I am unaware of what to observe. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

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I will locate the boost solenoid; with the engine idling, place your hand on it. If it is functioning, you will sense a pulsing sensation, accompanied by a continuous ticking or clicking sound if operating correctly.

Electronic diverter valves, if not sealing correctly, may cause your issue without generating error messages. When utilising ista, you can instruct them to open and close. Should this not be the case, eliminate them and examine the seals.

Upon reviewing the logs and acknowledging your assertion of no hoover or boost leaks, the most probable causes are as follows: Boost control solenoid 2) Damaged diaphragm within diverter valve

Any non-runflat tires will enhance the riding quality.Experience the new PS5; Camskill offers the lowest prices and provides an £80 payback on four Michelin tires and Uniroyal Rainsport tires.I possess a PlayStation 5 on my M4.

I believe the two are interconnected. Did you get a new cap? Oil changes are rather straightforward to do independently and need little equipment; thus, I would undertake oil changes more regularly, including the oil filter, and likely proceed with one immediately. You may have dislodged debris in suspension that is affecting the oil pressure and level from the last change. Regular alterations will facilitate the elimination of residue. Owning a historic car enhances satisfaction when the owner actively engages in its maintenance and assumes duties, rather than delegating tasks to technicians. Moreover, there will be an incessant emergence of problems, alongside the financial savings you would accrue. YouTube is an excellent resource, offering several videos that provide detailed instructions on how to do any task related to your specific vehicle. The excitement of a new activity is at your doorstep. The yellow light is activated by a sensor that monitors oil pressure, while the dipstick gauges the oil level in the sump. These are interconnected but distinct concepts. Allowing the vehicle to remain stationary for many hours will provide an accurate measurement on the dipstick (I presume you own a dipstick, since you were able to assess your oil level in the last discussion).