VWDaveBMW

A supplementary earth wire must be added to the bulb holder's earth connection.

Your description accurately reflects its behaviour. I will order one and have the technician install it, hoping it functions correctly; if not, I will request the next best component for replacement. Thank you! Your description accurately reflects its behaviour. I will order one, have the mechanic install it, and hope it functions; if not, I will request the next best component for replacement. Thank you!

Your description accurately reflects its behaviour. I will order one and have the technician install it, hoping it functions properly; if not, I will request the next best component for replacement. Thank you!

I will enquire with the mechanic whether he utilised software for the bleeding process, given he specialises exclusively in BMW and Mercedes vehicles. He believes that another element of the ABS system, such as the accumulator, is defective. I am uncertain about the additional components in the ABS system. Notwithstanding, I have possessed the vehicle for two weeks, and the braking performance has not improved nor altered. It is profoundly disconcerting, since I am uncertain whether it will genuinely cease or what the consequences might be if I abruptly applied the brakes.

The ABS warning lights on my 1994 BMW 840 are now extinguished; our mechanic fitted a pre-owned ABS pump sourced from eBay (1998-2000 BMW 540, 528, Z3, 740i ABS Anti-Lock Brake Pump Module 0265217000). The mechanic bled the brakes twice and then a third time to address a new issue exhibited by the automobile following the installation of a previously owned ABS pump acquired on eBay. The brake pedal provides spongy resistance at around one-quarter of its journey, yet effectively halts the vehicle. However, once halted, if I persist in pressing the pedal, it ultimately descends to the floor. I have own this California Car since February 2011, with the ABS system operational. Approximately around 2012, the ABS pump malfunctioned. Nonetheless, the brakes have consistently provided excellent performance, regardless of the functionality of the ABS. Nevertheless, I grew weary of the two ABS warning lights, and the appropriate course of action was to rectify the ABS issue. The car currently has 226,500 miles and operates excellently, by the way. What should I attempt next to resolve this issue? I appreciate your assistance.

Carriers may be necessary. I have always regarded the stock configuration of my 3.0d e53 as satisfactory.

I would suspect the DMF. I highly question its connection unless there is much excessive play present.

The presence of rust on a 2016 vehicle implies that it has likely undergone bodywork, despite the expectation of galvanisation in contemporary models.

This may seem like a trivial inquiry, but could you clarify which pipes are the vacuum pipes? Are they the ones associated with the EGR system?

Hello, it is the N47 engine with a power output of 130 kW/177 hp, and it has 126,000 kilometres recorded. A friend has a competent professional-grade reader that I intend to borrow. Thank you.

Hi, I am experiencing a rather unusual problem with my engine. In lower gears and at low RPMs, the vehicle accelerates moderately; but, when I apply full throttle, the engine exhibits a sluggish response and a significant deficiency in power. Getting up any type of an incline is difficult. I own an Obdeleven code reader, however it is not displaying any information. I have detached the air intake, and the turbo rotates freely when I apply finger pressure. A little amount of oil, but not excessive. No visible fractures in the charging hose. Starting to run out of ideas. Assistance with defect identification would be much appreciated.

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A part number is invaluable for locating the appropriate component, and all such numbers may be found in realoem.

The iDrive requires time to display an accurate level. Ensure the engine is heated prior to obtaining the reading. I would never trust it and would use the dipstick each time, if it is equipped with one.

The dipstick is reliable, since it never provides false readings. After a level sensor malfunction during an oil change, I transferred the oil into a clean container and then returned it to the system. I use a 25-liter drum with the bottom removed.