BEERMAN

He said that the rubber seat remains undamaged and the spring is positioned upon it; nonetheless, there exists an additional black tube encircling the first coil from the base. It was dense and dark, and he removed it. Resembled this image somewhat.

He is adamant that it is not the rubber. It resembled a rubber tube that encased the lower spring. He said that he would not remove it again.

Greetings I just had my front spring changed, and the technician removed the old insulator but failed to reinstall it on the new spring. I now hear a faint metallic crackling noise while traversing major bumps or speed bumps. The sleeve seemed to encompass the lower spring. Is there a sleeve for the top, or just for the bottom? Could this be the source of the issue? If so, can I just get a universal one? Do I need to remove the spring, or can I wrap it around the spring or the second spring from the bottom? I have observed that the universal ones include a slit for easy placement. I hope someone can assist. I am being dismissed as he claims it is the drop link.

Ensure that you have purchased either a MANN or authentic BMW filter, since some filters do not have two oil seal rings, which may trigger the low pressure warning light. If it is OK, I suspect the issue is with the oil pressure sensor.

If the error signal persists and the oil pickup is free of debris, the issue lies with the oil pressure sensor. Ensure it is an actual BMW part, since I had issues after installing a Disney Land brand component from eBay, which proved to be ineffective. Since replacing the sensor with the original, the error has vanished and has not reoccurred. However, prioritise the investigation of oil pickup first.

You can always check with AI for infos

Rail substituted after pump malfunction The pump was replaced twice due to error code 4560, indicating a plausibility issue with the rail fuel pressure, accompanied with delay and prolonged cranking during starts. The same codes appeared after the replacement of the second high-pressure fuel pump.

Immediate Data Acquisition OBD standards applicable to vehicles... European On-Board Diagnostics Placement of oxygen sensors 02S11 Fuel rail pressure 4457.00968 pounds per square inch 0-95050.4814 Equivalence ratio (lambda) (ba... More 0 to 1.999 Oxygen sensor voltage (bank 1... More 8. 0.836 volts 0 to 7.999 Directed EGR 2A 1 litre. Segment of real-time data extracted from ODB reader

The high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) malfunctioned and was replaced with a pre-owned pump from eBay on two occasions. Replaced and programmed injectors - used eBay Thoroughly cleaned the whole fuel system. Replaced the in-tank fuel pump located at the rear right of the vehicle, while the left pump was reinstalled as it was functioning well. Fuel pressure has not been assessed using the OBD reader, nor has a fuel leak been investigated. I will review YouTube videos about the latter two topics. Thank you for your prompt reply.

Indeed, it fits adequately, thank you.

Thank you; I will attempt it.

I attempted to use a universal clutch alignment tool, which was incompatible, so I constructed my own, as is my usual practice; the plate alignment seemed OK.

Following the replacement of the timing chain and clutch, I am unable to align the engine and gearbox. I have removed the front to provide more space, however they still would not connect. I have rebuilt several gearboxes and engines over the years, but I have never encountered this issue. Do you have any opinions?

Good day Thank you for your response, it is really appreciated. I just wanted to enhance the illumination on the road. I confess that I am unfamiliar with how to decipher and use the various codes. I have reservations about whether my garage, which has been in operation for 24 years, will possess the necessary knowledge. AUDI only uses original equipment (OE) bulbs. I enquired about this and was informed of their policy. Throughout my 60 years of driving, I have owned and operated a total of 18 vehicles. You open the car's hood, remove the rubber seal, extract the bulb, replace it with a new one, and complete the task. Are you suggesting that the computer system in my Audi has the ability to determine the kind of lighting that is produced? Replacing a 55-watt H7 bulb with a new, more efficient 55-watt H7 bulb is a straightforward process that will not change the amount of current used. I find it more convenient to avoid going outside around nighttime. Ensure your well-being

Hello, I am looking for two headlight pods for an Audi A5 Fastback. The bulbs are designed with advanced technology, making it difficult to access them easily. During the previous winter, the brightness of the bulbs was comparable to that of two dull candles. I want lights that are more luminous. Let's assume that our H7 is superior than Joe Blog's H7, it's similar to the advertisements for shampoo. Should I stick with H7s from OSRAM, which they claim to be the best? Should I upgrade to LED lighting? Has anybody really completed this trade and can provide firsthand information? I contacted my nearby AUDI dealership, which only provides original equipment (OE) parts. However, they get several enquiries about this particular "issue". I possess knowledge about the different kinds of bulbs.

Attempt to remove the injectors, reposition the fuel lines, and reinstall the injectors. Do not establish a connection with the power supply. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump and place a layer of dish towel behind the injectors. Next, activate the engine to initiate the pressurisation of the high pressure fuel pump. Then search for the flow of gasoline. Two of my items have a little dispersion issue, and one of them has a small leakage problem, indicating their poor quality. It seems that the issue caused significant damage to my first cat, resulting in a complete blockage of the second cat.

Although I lack the financial means, if I were able to afford it, I would definitely do so.

Depending on the dealer I inquire with, the 4.2 L engine may either be considered outdated and unavailable for ordering, or it may be on back-order with no estimated time of arrival. Does anybody possess a definitive response to this inquiry?

According to the most recent update, the engine has been immobilised and there is a significant amount of metallic debris present in the oil. The block seems to be undamaged. They hypothesise that either a pump malfunctioned or a bearing is the cause. If anybody is aware of a reputable establishment in British Columbia that specialises in engine rebuilding, or if they can recommend someone who can rebuild a used engine for me, I would highly appreciate the information.

Thank you

I really value and am grateful for your gesture. Thank you. It is quite painful to experience this just after receiving a fresh ban six months ago. On Monday, I will get further information. Positive indicators include the absence of overheating in the oil, normal oil level, and the absence of coolant contamination resulting in a milky appearance. Additionally, there were no audible indications of a catastrophic failure such as a loud explosion caused by a rod piercing the engine block. I am mentally prepared for the worst-case scenario, which would need completely replacing the engine. However, I am hopeful that it may be able to repair it instead. I reside in British Columbia, Canada, and I would really appreciate any recommendations for alternative establishments that specialise in motor rebuilding or installation, which provide more cost-effective options compared to authorised dealers. Regrettably, the costs charged by dealers for components are exorbitantly inflated, even taking into account the exchange rate. I am referring to a price difference of $10,000 for purchasing the same item on this side of the border, as opposed to buying it elsewhere.

My 2010 4.2 L R8, which has travelled 38,000 km, had a sudden increase in loudness and then ceased functioning, emitting smoke from both the exhaust and engine compartment. The engine is now unresponsive and the coolant light is on, yet the check engine light remains off. The diagnosis is still ongoing, but the prevailing hypothesis is that a head gasket failure occurred, resulting in the flooding of a cylinder with coolant and potentially causing extensive damage to the whole engine. Do you have any specific guidance or advice? The video clip I want to provide has an extension that is not permitted, but it seems to be indicative of piston slap.

Sure, I had a v6 from the year 2000, so you won't have to worry about it. Just be sure to use the roof, since that may be an issue.

I take that you're saying it's the V6?

Issues may arise with the electrical thermostat located underneath the secondary water pump. If your foot's temperature is uneven, it's probably on its last legs. It distributes water to the opposite bank of cylinders and is situated on the driver's side of the fire wall; I've been almost there when it failed to perform its job. Putting the bonnet up straight and following the pipe back from the T junction near the rad will lead you there, but it's a hassle to get there. Because of all the geometry involved (both front and rear), you should probably have your tyres aligned every so often and check the tread depth. Good luck.