BEERMAN

Regrettably, I did not capture any photographs. My vehicle previously had repairs to the back quarter, and upon meticulous examination, it was apparent that it had been disguised at the trim. I aimed to do the task with more efficacy. Had I been aware of the challenges it would entail, I likely would have refrained from doing it. The only reason I proceeded was my belief that the trim would be affixed over the quarter window, as it is on other models. While attempting to extract it, I slightly bent the trim, necessitating its removal to rectify the deformation and complete the painting.

I have determined the method for removing the trim pieces, therefore I will share my findings to assist anyone who may want this information. The outside metal trim located under the rear window may be gently lifted and detached, starting from the end nearest to the door, without requiring the removal of any further components. The outside metal trim that extends over the door and rear window along the roof rail is fastened with screws throughout its entire length. Mercedes, in their judgment, neglected to use clips in the region above the rear fixed quarter window. The quarter glass must be removed to access the screws securing the trim. The inside trim must be removed to reach the bottom bolt securing the quarter window. A solitary screw at the top fixes the quarter glass. The window seal in the top corner, next to the quarter glass, must be displaced to one side to reach this screw. The quarter glass, together with the top channel seal and the bottom inner seal, is removed simultaneously. I trust this information will be beneficial to someone.

Could someone provide guidance on how to detach the stainless trim around the windows of the C207 coupe? Upon removing the channel seal above the door glass, I see that the trim around the roofline is secured with Torx screws. The issue is that this trim overlaps the stationary quarter glass in the back. I think that the Torx screws extend across this region as well. If this is the situation, the rear quarter glass must also be detached, necessitating the removal of the inside side trim as well. Could someone confirm if I am proceeding correctly and provide guidance on the removal of the inner panel and stainless trim? I am also uncertain about the removal process for the steel trim that extends down the lower edge of the rear window. I have attempted to lift it higher, as is effective for many other Mercedes models, but it seems ineffective for my vehicle. Any assistance and/or guidance would be appreciated. I want to have a rear quarter guard repaired and spray painted, preferably without masking at the trim.

The 19" displays a load rating of 98, hence I will consult a MOT tester over the precise legalities of the 94 currently installed.

http://www.realoem.com/

It irritates me when my tires do not match precisely on an axle; discussing differing brands between the front and rear tires is even more unsettling. 🤪 Could you upload an image of the tire pressure label located on the door pillar? www.realoem.com will also specify the factory-fitted load ratings. Yes, to the best of my knowledge, it will now pass a MOT. I believe that a mismatched load rating is inconsequential as long as it is equal to or exceeds the homologated level. The front and rear load ratings do not need to be identical and are not inherently need to match.

He said that the rubber seat remains undamaged and the spring is positioned upon it; nonetheless, there exists an additional black tube encircling the first coil from the base. It was dense and dark, and he removed it. Resembled this image somewhat.

He is adamant that it is not the rubber. It resembled a rubber tube that encased the lower spring. He said that he would not remove it again.

Greetings I just had my front spring changed, and the technician removed the old insulator but failed to reinstall it on the new spring. I now hear a faint metallic crackling noise while traversing major bumps or speed bumps. The sleeve seemed to encompass the lower spring. Is there a sleeve for the top, or just for the bottom? Could this be the source of the issue? If so, can I just get a universal one? Do I need to remove the spring, or can I wrap it around the spring or the second spring from the bottom? I have observed that the universal ones include a slit for easy placement. I hope someone can assist. I am being dismissed as he claims it is the drop link.

Ensure that you have purchased either a MANN or authentic BMW filter, since some filters do not have two oil seal rings, which may trigger the low pressure warning light. If it is OK, I suspect the issue is with the oil pressure sensor.

If the error signal persists and the oil pickup is free of debris, the issue lies with the oil pressure sensor. Ensure it is an actual BMW part, since I had issues after installing a Disney Land brand component from eBay, which proved to be ineffective. Since replacing the sensor with the original, the error has vanished and has not reoccurred. However, prioritise the investigation of oil pickup first.

You can always check with AI for infos

Rail substituted after pump malfunction The pump was replaced twice due to error code 4560, indicating a plausibility issue with the rail fuel pressure, accompanied with delay and prolonged cranking during starts. The same codes appeared after the replacement of the second high-pressure fuel pump.

Immediate Data Acquisition OBD standards applicable to vehicles... European On-Board Diagnostics Placement of oxygen sensors 02S11 Fuel rail pressure 4457.00968 pounds per square inch 0-95050.4814 Equivalence ratio (lambda) (ba... More 0 to 1.999 Oxygen sensor voltage (bank 1... More 8. 0.836 volts 0 to 7.999 Directed EGR 2A 1 litre. Segment of real-time data extracted from ODB reader

The high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) malfunctioned and was replaced with a pre-owned pump from eBay on two occasions. Replaced and programmed injectors - used eBay Thoroughly cleaned the whole fuel system. Replaced the in-tank fuel pump located at the rear right of the vehicle, while the left pump was reinstalled as it was functioning well. Fuel pressure has not been assessed using the OBD reader, nor has a fuel leak been investigated. I will review YouTube videos about the latter two topics. Thank you for your prompt reply.

Indeed, it fits adequately, thank you.

Thank you; I will attempt it.

I attempted to use a universal clutch alignment tool, which was incompatible, so I constructed my own, as is my usual practice; the plate alignment seemed OK.

Following the replacement of the timing chain and clutch, I am unable to align the engine and gearbox. I have removed the front to provide more space, however they still would not connect. I have rebuilt several gearboxes and engines over the years, but I have never encountered this issue. Do you have any opinions?

Good day Thank you for your response, it is really appreciated. I just wanted to enhance the illumination on the road. I confess that I am unfamiliar with how to decipher and use the various codes. I have reservations about whether my garage, which has been in operation for 24 years, will possess the necessary knowledge. AUDI only uses original equipment (OE) bulbs. I enquired about this and was informed of their policy. Throughout my 60 years of driving, I have owned and operated a total of 18 vehicles. You open the car's hood, remove the rubber seal, extract the bulb, replace it with a new one, and complete the task. Are you suggesting that the computer system in my Audi has the ability to determine the kind of lighting that is produced? Replacing a 55-watt H7 bulb with a new, more efficient 55-watt H7 bulb is a straightforward process that will not change the amount of current used. I find it more convenient to avoid going outside around nighttime. Ensure your well-being

Hello, I am looking for two headlight pods for an Audi A5 Fastback. The bulbs are designed with advanced technology, making it difficult to access them easily. During the previous winter, the brightness of the bulbs was comparable to that of two dull candles. I want lights that are more luminous. Let's assume that our H7 is superior than Joe Blog's H7, it's similar to the advertisements for shampoo. Should I stick with H7s from OSRAM, which they claim to be the best? Should I upgrade to LED lighting? Has anybody really completed this trade and can provide firsthand information? I contacted my nearby AUDI dealership, which only provides original equipment (OE) parts. However, they get several enquiries about this particular "issue". I possess knowledge about the different kinds of bulbs.

Attempt to remove the injectors, reposition the fuel lines, and reinstall the injectors. Do not establish a connection with the power supply. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump and place a layer of dish towel behind the injectors. Next, activate the engine to initiate the pressurisation of the high pressure fuel pump. Then search for the flow of gasoline. Two of my items have a little dispersion issue, and one of them has a small leakage problem, indicating their poor quality. It seems that the issue caused significant damage to my first cat, resulting in a complete blockage of the second cat.

Although I lack the financial means, if I were able to afford it, I would definitely do so.

Depending on the dealer I inquire with, the 4.2 L engine may either be considered outdated and unavailable for ordering, or it may be on back-order with no estimated time of arrival. Does anybody possess a definitive response to this inquiry?

According to the most recent update, the engine has been immobilised and there is a significant amount of metallic debris present in the oil. The block seems to be undamaged. They hypothesise that either a pump malfunctioned or a bearing is the cause. If anybody is aware of a reputable establishment in British Columbia that specialises in engine rebuilding, or if they can recommend someone who can rebuild a used engine for me, I would highly appreciate the information.