BEERMAN

I have recently finished the annual service on my 2017 W205 without any issues, as is customary. I typically assess the quality of the brake fluid using a tester and replace it according to its condition. I perform the same procedure with the coolant, verifying the DC voltage to ground, and if it is below 0.4V, we are satisfactory. For the past three years, the voltage has been 0.15V; however, this year it has increased to 0.45V. Therefore, I conclude that it is no longer inhibiting galvanic corrosion and requires replacement. No issue, I have replaced coolant numerous times, but not in this vehicle.

Thank you. Is there a method to utilise an OBD scanner to diagnose and erase faults, or to address the persistent audible ticking noise I have frequently encountered? I am coordinating to have a mobile technician remove the bumper for this task and am uncertain if I can obtain the part on-site if necessary. BMW offers pre-painted options at £120, however they are non-returnable, rendering that choice unfeasible.

Greetings to everyone, There was a minor dent on the front, causing one of the sensors to dislodge and hang within. This has resulted in the failure of all sensors. Infrequently, when engaged in reverse, they function for a little period before returning to the incorrect state. I intend to complete some repairs, and this is one of the issues to address. My inquiry is whether anyone is aware if it will merely involve reinserting the component and clearing or recoding the error codes, or if there is a possibility that additional replacements are necessary. I would prefer to purchase the components preemptively, given that the bumper is removed, to avoid redundant effort in the future.

It is peculiar, although it is fortunate that you have resolved the issue.

Unusual...I often use Wago 221 and 222 series connectors at work and have never had any issues with them. Did your electrician specify the problem?

It is presumed that if the bulbs possess the appropriate flash rate (60-120 flashes per minute), then they should comply with the MOT requirements.

That seems to be a wheel speed sensor.

I would be astonished if it is applicable to the UK (assuming you are located in the UK). Reach out to Mercedes-Benz UK Customer Services for confirmation.

Hello, I am seeking information on an extended warranty related to a fault code concerning the crankcase ventilation valve. I understand that the warranty has been extended, but I am unable to get any information from Mercedes Glasgow.

I have not needed to replace a windshield. I recognize that the extensive electronics included into contemporary windscreens makes the procedure far more complex than in previous years. It is unequivocally a task for a professional whose work is certain.

Regrettably, I did not capture any photographs. My vehicle previously had repairs to the back quarter, and upon meticulous examination, it was apparent that it had been disguised at the trim. I aimed to do the task with more efficacy. Had I been aware of the challenges it would entail, I likely would have refrained from doing it. The only reason I proceeded was my belief that the trim would be affixed over the quarter window, as it is on other models. While attempting to extract it, I slightly bent the trim, necessitating its removal to rectify the deformation and complete the painting.

I have determined the method for removing the trim pieces, therefore I will share my findings to assist anyone who may want this information. The outside metal trim located under the rear window may be gently lifted and detached, starting from the end nearest to the door, without requiring the removal of any further components. The outside metal trim that extends over the door and rear window along the roof rail is fastened with screws throughout its entire length. Mercedes, in their judgment, neglected to use clips in the region above the rear fixed quarter window. The quarter glass must be removed to access the screws securing the trim. The inside trim must be removed to reach the bottom bolt securing the quarter window. A solitary screw at the top fixes the quarter glass. The window seal in the top corner, next to the quarter glass, must be displaced to one side to reach this screw. The quarter glass, together with the top channel seal and the bottom inner seal, is removed simultaneously. I trust this information will be beneficial to someone.

Could someone provide guidance on how to detach the stainless trim around the windows of the C207 coupe? Upon removing the channel seal above the door glass, I see that the trim around the roofline is secured with Torx screws. The issue is that this trim overlaps the stationary quarter glass in the back. I think that the Torx screws extend across this region as well. If this is the situation, the rear quarter glass must also be detached, necessitating the removal of the inside side trim as well. Could someone confirm if I am proceeding correctly and provide guidance on the removal of the inner panel and stainless trim? I am also uncertain about the removal process for the steel trim that extends down the lower edge of the rear window. I have attempted to lift it higher, as is effective for many other Mercedes models, but it seems ineffective for my vehicle. Any assistance and/or guidance would be appreciated. I want to have a rear quarter guard repaired and spray painted, preferably without masking at the trim.

The 19" displays a load rating of 98, hence I will consult a MOT tester over the precise legalities of the 94 currently installed.

http://www.realoem.com/

It irritates me when my tires do not match precisely on an axle; discussing differing brands between the front and rear tires is even more unsettling. 🤪 Could you upload an image of the tire pressure label located on the door pillar? www.realoem.com will also specify the factory-fitted load ratings. Yes, to the best of my knowledge, it will now pass a MOT. I believe that a mismatched load rating is inconsequential as long as it is equal to or exceeds the homologated level. The front and rear load ratings do not need to be identical and are not inherently need to match.

He said that the rubber seat remains undamaged and the spring is positioned upon it; nonetheless, there exists an additional black tube encircling the first coil from the base. It was dense and dark, and he removed it. Resembled this image somewhat.

He is adamant that it is not the rubber. It resembled a rubber tube that encased the lower spring. He said that he would not remove it again.

Greetings I just had my front spring changed, and the technician removed the old insulator but failed to reinstall it on the new spring. I now hear a faint metallic crackling noise while traversing major bumps or speed bumps. The sleeve seemed to encompass the lower spring. Is there a sleeve for the top, or just for the bottom? Could this be the source of the issue? If so, can I just get a universal one? Do I need to remove the spring, or can I wrap it around the spring or the second spring from the bottom? I have observed that the universal ones include a slit for easy placement. I hope someone can assist. I am being dismissed as he claims it is the drop link.

Ensure that you have purchased either a MANN or authentic BMW filter, since some filters do not have two oil seal rings, which may trigger the low pressure warning light. If it is OK, I suspect the issue is with the oil pressure sensor.

If the error signal persists and the oil pickup is free of debris, the issue lies with the oil pressure sensor. Ensure it is an actual BMW part, since I had issues after installing a Disney Land brand component from eBay, which proved to be ineffective. Since replacing the sensor with the original, the error has vanished and has not reoccurred. However, prioritise the investigation of oil pickup first.

You can always check with AI for infos

Rail substituted after pump malfunction The pump was replaced twice due to error code 4560, indicating a plausibility issue with the rail fuel pressure, accompanied with delay and prolonged cranking during starts. The same codes appeared after the replacement of the second high-pressure fuel pump.

Immediate Data Acquisition OBD standards applicable to vehicles... European On-Board Diagnostics Placement of oxygen sensors 02S11 Fuel rail pressure 4457.00968 pounds per square inch 0-95050.4814 Equivalence ratio (lambda) (ba... More 0 to 1.999 Oxygen sensor voltage (bank 1... More 8. 0.836 volts 0 to 7.999 Directed EGR 2A 1 litre. Segment of real-time data extracted from ODB reader

The high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) malfunctioned and was replaced with a pre-owned pump from eBay on two occasions. Replaced and programmed injectors - used eBay Thoroughly cleaned the whole fuel system. Replaced the in-tank fuel pump located at the rear right of the vehicle, while the left pump was reinstalled as it was functioning well. Fuel pressure has not been assessed using the OBD reader, nor has a fuel leak been investigated. I will review YouTube videos about the latter two topics. Thank you for your prompt reply.