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The rear camera is so bad that it's practically useless after a rainy trip unless you take it outside and wipe it down. The door mirrors, however, appear to have avoided the majority of the spray, so there is that.

Thank you! I was hoping they provided some protection, but I did notice that they were small. The EV2 will end up with a dirty rear end just like the EV3, which is a shame, but I suppose the spray can't be stopped from reaching that level.

In fact, when it rains, the EV2's upright back end becomes filthy. I had KIA mudflaps installed as part of the purchase, and I must say, they're not very practical at all! In addition to falling approximately 30 mm short of the bodywork, they barely cover half the width of the tires. In my opinion, they are grossly inadequate, so I wouldn't recommend them for the EV2 until aftermarket larger mudflaps become available.

I was wondering if the EV2 would experience the same issue as the EV3 did with the back end getting really dirty. My guess is yes. If that's the case, I'm curious if installing mud flaps will help.

open the door and deactivate the handbreak by pulling the release lever on the dashboard.

It's not easy to push such a heavy vehicle. You could also try chiselling out a section of wall where the door meets the wall if the garage in question. It made all the difference when I did that and added an extra inch to the door opening. For parking, I turn the ignition back on, use the parking brake button to disable the brake, and then turn off the ignition, but I've never tried keeping it in neutral while turned off.

If the hardware for remote parking is already installed in your vehicle, you might want to look into it. Having the subscription on my own car allowed me to park in more congested multi-story garages, with those concrete circular pillars. However, I no longer have it.

From what I can recall, you can try stepping out of the vehicle, shutting the door, pressing down on the brake pedal with a piece of wood or similar object, shifting into neutral, and finally pushing the car into the garage. Unlock the door. Repeat the process to remove it once more.

Even though it fits in my garage, I'll be taking it somewhere else soon. Right now, though, it would be so much easier if I could just push it in without any trouble getting out. It would be great if I could force it in, but if that isn't possible, then it's okay.

I don't mean to be impolite, but why would you even consider purchasing a vehicle if you already know it won't fit in your garage?

My garage is big enough to accommodate my newly bought C43 convertible, but getting out of it requires more of a climb than just opening the door. It would be convenient if I could just push it into or out of the garage, allowing me to use the door for entry and exit. When I'm in Neutral and I open the door, the problem starts. The handbrake is pressed and the gearbox goes into park. It appears that the handbrake is automatically applied when I attempt to climb out of the car while in Neutral. Is anyone aware of the feasibility and, if so, the process for accomplishing this?

At low revs and idle, my engine sounded grumpy, almost like exhaust rumble. However, unlike the OP, I did not experience any vibrations in the cabin. I later installed the serpentine belt (the one I had ordered was too large), and it makes a world of difference in terms of noise reduction;took care of the crankshaft pulley and idler pulley/tensioner. Now I'm worried about something else—I can hear the turbo turning on and running down.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Automatic+Transmission+Fluid

Lower pulley chain. Take a look at it while the engine is running to verify its true run-ability.

I appreciate it and will give it a try.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=EGR+valve

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Automatic+Transmission+Fluid

There shouldn't be any noticeable vibration at 2000 rpm, even if the engine mounts are damaged. They should be as silky smooth as the petrol 6s, but with a gruffer tone, so the engine must be running extremely rough. You can still learn a lot about its performance from a live diagnostic, even if the dashboard lights aren't on. If the EGR and manifold have not been decarbonised recently, it is worth doing so as it may improve the running of diesels that become rough due to soot buildup.

😁

When you step on the ground, the vibrations disappear.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+M+Sport

Hello, the entire cabin of my 2009 325d m sport vibrates from 1500 to 2000 rpm, and it also vibrates while idling. Someone said the engine mounts were the problem, but I don't see any obvious wear and tear on them. Is there something loose that could be causing the problem? Lots of vibration on the plastics under the hood makes it sound like it's coming from the engine's top. Works without a hitch, dropping power, or error messages

Were you the one to do it yourself or did you take it to a garage? Was the appropriate DCT Fluid used? The clutches slip in these transmissions if the fluid isn't changed regularly, but I've found that changing the fluid improves the changes (though it can take a few thousand kilometres for them to settle down again, especially if it's been long overdue), so it's not always the case. I have my doubts that it is DCT fluid. In any case, is the fluid level accurate? Although getting it right is a bit of a challenge, I have seen transmissions that were substantially overfilled and still functioned properly. However, I'm fairly certain that won't occur if the position is underfilled.

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