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How does the new set of cam rings that BMW offers compare to the previous ones?

Each camshaft requires two genuine BMW parts, and you can only get them from an authorised BMW dealer. One day after receiving them, immerse them in motor oil. Changing them is a breeze; simply remove the old ones using a pick, apply oil to the cam ends, then carefully push the rectangs into place using a plastic pry.

What is the process for altering the rectangles? I might as well do the new Vanos gears since I'm going to use them anyway.

I'm grateful for the update, kk. Your double-checking and confirmation that the timing is perfect is greatly appreciated (y) Your utilisation of high-quality parts is commendable. Since you neglected to replace the vanos sprockets and the rectang rings (gaskets) at the cam ends, I'm wondering if that's the source of your issue. The replacement chain's lifespan will be diminished due to the old sprockets wearing it down rapidly. Without checking the real-time data, I'd venture to say that the sprockets are Maxwell-worn and the rectangs are past their sell-by dates. Examine the desired and actual cam locations to determine the extent of the disparity if you are unable to obtain a more advanced scan tool. You may use that information to identify the sprockets and rectangs.

I replaced the tensioner and guides on the fake timing chain, but I left the cam sprockets alone. Since I recently purchased a regular chain kit. Before I started working on the engine, I never had these codes. Even though the engine only required a new head gasket, I decided to change the chain nevertheless. After double-checking the timing, I can confirm that both cams are in sync when the crank is locked and the locking tools for the camshaft are exactly aligned. The engine had to run for some time before this inspection could be done. I installed two Febi Vanos sensors.

Was the TC a complete FAI or OEM BMW kit that came with all the necessary guides and a new tensioner? The solenoids must be of the BMW or Pierburg variety. Just wanted to give you a heads up that most of the material you see on the internet is crap and won't work, so there's no need to worry about whether they were or weren't. It seems that out-of-timing problems are prevalent in these codes. To be quite honest, I think 180 psi is a little low for a turbo; it should be closer to 200 psi.

The 2014 MINI Cooper S R60 Countryman N18 Greetings everyone, These engine codes are giving me trouble right now. 2C58 - Control of charging pressure: Turn off as a result The angle offset with respect to the crankshaft outside tolerance is 2DA0 for the intake camshaft. Angle offset with respect to the crankshaft outside tolerance (2DA2)—exhaust camshaft The codes are cleared. I get no problems when the engine is idling or revved up to 2500 rpm, but as soon as I start driving and take off the gas, the trouble codes start popping up again. A new turbo, head gasket, valve stem seals, timing chain, and two new Vanos solenoids were recently installed on the vehicle. The timing and tool alignment have been double-checked. Changes to Vanos have been rolled back. Compression on each cylinder is around 180 psi, which is good for the engine. If you could assist, I would greatly appreciate it.

Am I missing something? What year is your car? The new facelift model, which will be available in September of this year, features a head-up display. No, the original version doesn't feature the boomerang headlights.

Oops, my bad. Responded to the incorrect message 🙄

The MY26 facelift model is what I said.

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Mine was operational on the same day I picked it up, so I know the MY26 makeover works.

Is a head-up display available on the Sortage gt line s? No. If that's the case, how can I turn it on? The manual doesn't seem to cover it.

I haven't snapped one yet, here's hoping the trend continues. Before taking them out, I always make sure the engine is warm, but not too hot.

It shouldn't be a problem because they were torqued to the recommended setting using a 1/4" torque wrench. However, getting them out is stressful because you're constantly waiting for them to snap. I was lucky with the number 4 plug I replaced because they haven't been in there for very long, but I still handled it with care just in case.

?? With even a little bit of excess force, these thin glow plugs will twist and deform.

After reviewing the Bosch website, I can confirm that their duraterm plugs are rated at 11v. This makes sense considering that, with the plugs disconnected and the ignition turned on, the measured voltage at the plug connectors was around 11.5v-12v. It appears that the glowplug side is functioning properly, which is why I am confused 🤎🤷🏻. However, it is possible that there is another defective relay.

Every glow plug I've ever used has had the voltage printed on it. Without glow plugs, the greatest voltage output measurement would serve as a solid reference; nevertheless, I am not very knowledgeable about controllers. Remember to turn off the ignition for that.

Understood 👍🏼 I will verify by cross-referencing the part numbers on EPC just to be sure, but the glow plugs I installed were reportedly for my year and model. I might simply have to buy new ones 🤦🏻‍♂️🤎.

Glow plugs come with two different voltage ratings. Regardless of the plugs you've used, make sure the controller is compatible. Proceed with caution when verifying diagnostic output. With time, the voltage at the output should decrease.

Greetings everyone! My glow plug light is acting strangely, you know? I hope the knowledge base here will be the answer I've been looking for because I've done a lot of searching, both on this site and elsewhere on the web, but nothing has worked so far. For some time now, whenever I turn on the engine, the glow plug light returns and remains on for around 30 seconds before turning off again. It won't turn back on after it goes out, but if I leave the car parked for long enough on cold days, the procedure will happen again. The Bosch Duraterm plugs are only around six months old, therefore it was shocking to see a code for glow plug number four not functioning properly when I scanned the codes. After changing the plug, clearing the codes, and rescanning, I encountered a new code indicating that the light output stage was not working correctly. It appeared, after some investigation, that this was probably the glow plug relay; I removed it to find, to my amazement, that the internal fuse for glow plug circuit number four had blown. I received error messages for each of the four glow plugs after installing the new module that I had purchased from eBay (yes, I am aware of that). Assuming the module was simply defective, I contacted the vendor, who sent me a replacement. After installing it, I got a fault code for glow plugs 3 and 4, but no code for the relay. I decided to acquire one of the newer BERU type relays without the internal fuses instead because I have some experience with Chinese parts and it is not uncommon or impossible to have two defective things. I thought that would solve the problem, but now I get codes for glow plugs three and four after installation 🤎 🙄. I whipped out the multimeter and got to work, because it seemed highly improbable that three modules in a row, of different kinds and from separate vendors, would all be defective. There is good continuity on all four of the wires when testing the multi-plug connection to the glow plug connections. While the engine is running, I get 12 V from the glow plug module's power source and 12 V from the relay's four connections; but, when the engine is off, I get no voltage at all. From what I can tell, the three-pin connector that goes to the relay is the canbus signal, but the readings on it are all over the place. The output was approximately 5 V. It seems like there's an odd noise coming from under the passenger seat area whenever I turn on the ignition. Upon investigation, I found that there are only three electrical connectors—two regular blade fuses and a large blade fuse—and that they're all in good working order. Based on my observations, there doesn't appear to be any other source for this sound. It could be a red herring, but it was not present prior to installing the new relay, so it's likely linked. I am open to recommendations from you knowledgeable people because I have exhausted all of my thoughts and the Internet has failed to provide a solution.

The client claims the problem worsened over time; nonetheless, a new problem has emerged: the vehicle suddenly stops cranking. I connected it to a charger after seeing the warning "low battery, please start the car" on the dashboard, but the engine still wouldn't crank. Could it be just a blown fuse, or is there anything more serious going on? By the way, I was wondering if you had any recommendations for a good VCI to utilise with ISTA right now; I'm having trouble measuring injector flow with my current diagnostic tools (XTool D8S and Autocom).

Is this an ongoing issue or did it suddenly become worse?

Prior to removing injectors, I would verify correction values and do a leak off test. On the n47 engine, the only problems I've ever encountered were faulty injectors and related codes. However, it doesn't rule out the possibility that your injector is questionable. Fuel pressure in real-time data is something else I'd look into.