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Regrettably, it might be attributed to various factors, and the potential explanations are numerous without direct observation. It may be crank pressure. It is possible that with only 1.5 litres of oil in the vehicle, the oil in the turbocharger has been degraded, resulting in a blockage of the drain line. The unlubricated turbo may have compromised the turbine side seals. It is often more economical to rebuild or replace a turbocharger than to pursue seal leak repairs, as seen in nine out of ten instances. If the pressure is sufficiently high to expel oil from the hot side, I would also anticipate observing leaks from the valve covers or the rear main seal.

Could this possibly elucidate the absence of suction on my oil cap? It is said online that white smoke will emanate from the oil fill hole with the engine running if the PCV is defective; however, I am not observing any smoke.

Thank you for your excellent response, my friend.

If the crankcase pressure is sufficiently elevated to obstruct the oil drain line or induce back pressure through it, it is not uncommon for a leak on the turbine side to occur as a result of crankcase pressure stemming from a severely compromised PCV system.

The PCV system will not function as the PCV is located on the intake side, resulting in oil accumulation within the intercooler and intake manifold prior to combustion in the cylinders. The presence of grease on the exhaust side indicates a malfunctioning turbocharger.

This response is excellent. Does this appear to be a turbo seal or PCV issue? I am uncertain if there is an excessive amount of oil, but it feels excessive to me.

The play in the shaft is attributable to the bearings, not the seals. The seals may deteriorate while the bearings remain in satisfactory condition. The compressor side seal may remain in satisfactory condition while the turbine side seal, leading to the exhaust, has deteriorated significantly. If there are significant quantities of oil in the exhaust, it is unlikely to be due to PCV blow-by and may indeed explain the initial depletion of engine oil.

Greetings I require assistance in determining the next steps to take, if someone could provide advise on this matter. The car's low oil pressure issue has been resolved, since it contained only 1.5 litres of oil. New oil and a filter have rectified the problem. The DPF readings on live data where at 25 so thats getting blocked up along with EGR codes in the system so the customer wants the DPF pulled out, on approach to pulling the DPF off, I have observed gobs of oil from the turbo. There is no play in the turbine; the car was boosting adequately until low-pressure error codes appeared. The turbo intake side is not oily, which leads me to question whether the issue is with the turbo oil seals or the PCV system. With the engine running and the oil cap removed, I am not observing any suction from the oil fill opening, which suggests that the issue may be related to the PCV system. Aim to prevent haphazardly discarding components. Thank you.

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Uncertainty regarding INPA in relation to new generation vehicles may exist. I utilise the Autel Pro 2 Elite and must connect to the server to perform specific resets and updates. The increment wheel adaptation is available in its options, which I am aware of as I have previously executed it.

Thank you for your response, TDudette. Following your feedback, I began to research the timing subsequent to the flywheel replacement. I encountered the following: “After substituting the flywheel on a B38 engine, it is imperative to execute a re-adaptation procedure utilising a diagnostic tool such as” INPA to verify that the engine control unit (DME) accurately interprets the new component. This is essential as a new flywheel possesses distinct rotational mass properties, necessitating a reset of the engine's adaptive software to avert complications such as vibrations or suboptimal performance. The adaptation process entails the removal of outdated trims and a designated driving test to recalibrate the engine's settings for the new flywheel. Is it possible that the vehicle merely requires flywheel adaptations through INPA or alternative software? The flywheel is substituted with a new original component bearing the same part number.

Has the timing wheel on the rear of the crankshaft been compromised? It is positioned between the flywheel and crankshaft and features a coated surface that safeguards the segments read by the crank position sensor. On the B38 and B48 engines, the Autel diagnostic tool allows for reprogramming the interaction between the wheel and sensor. The diagnostic code indicates a misfire in cylinder number one, which may simply be due to a malfunctioning injector, as the live data readings are weak. The B series engines present significantly greater challenges for maintenance and repair.

I hope someone here can assist me. I possess a 2014 Mini Cooper (engine code B38A15A) with 150 kilometres on the odometer. The clutch and flywheel have been replaced. Subsequently, the vehicle began displaying fault code P0301. The fuel supply to stroke 1 will be terminated, and the vehicle will operate on a two-stroke engine. I am unable to determine how to remedy this issue. I have already substituted the spark plugs and coils without success. Is it possible that a sensor is present in some location? Does anyone possess any suggestions?

Indeed, I completed all necessary tasks when I replaced the thermostat, so I believe I am adequately prepared in that regard. I observed typical oil spots around the seal positions, which had been improperly installed. It appears that the new MAF required calibration in my situation.

It is advisable to inspect all o-rings and seals on the turbo outlet (aluminium pipe) leading to the resonator (plastic box at the front of the engine) and the intercooler. I believe your 2010 model possesses the same or a very similar engine as my 2009 E280. I recently completed all my maintenance, and the performance has significantly improved; I previously underestimated its condition, but I now recognise the sluggishness in throttle response and downshifts. Some of these seals may have been compromised during the installation of the new intake; this is how I realised mine required attention, as I subsequently experienced a check engine light owing to many leaks, including a boost leak at the intercooler pipe. I wanted to bring this to your attention, although you may already be aware. Here is a highly beneficial link that I utilised

Disconnected the negative terminal for 20 minutes while replacing the fuel filter today. It is currently idling more effectively.

You may reset it by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes.

I apologise, everyone. I did not receive notifications regarding your responses. I ultimately resolved the issue. The MAF was indeed defective. I purchased a pre-owned Y-Pipe in superior condition than mine, which included one MAF. I transferred my functional MAF to it, and it registered the accurate temperature and airflow measurements. Nonetheless, I occasionally have a minor hitch after startup. During discussions with Avantgarde in Clevedon, they indicated that the adjustments must be recalibrated for optimal performance. The issue is that I currently reside in Scotland, necessitating the search for a reputable independent establishment in Edinburgh. All nearby garages I have approached have provided a standard quotation of approximately £90 for one hour of service. It would be more advantageous for me to purchase a superior fault reader than to spend two minutes having them reset it.

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Is it necessary to code a new MAF sensor, or is it a plug-and-play component?

It is uncertain if this information would be beneficial, however when my MAF sensor went down due to a missing fuse, a prominent characteristic was difficult upshifts. If your vehicle is an automobile and you are encountering the same issue, it likely indicates a malfunctioning MAF sensor. - supposing that MB configures the gearbox ECU to default to elevated line pressures in the absence of MAF sensor data, as indicated by my 4L 80E.

How is it functioning?Whenever I have experienced MAF failure, the vehicles operated quite poorly.

I have recently replaced the temperature sensor, and I am not surprised that it did not resolve the issue. I have observed that when I disconnect Sensor A, its temperature remains at 79°C whereas Sensor B decreases to 21°C. Upon disconnecting Sensor B, both temperatures stabilise at 79°C. The subsequent course of action appears to be attempting a costly MAF replacement, unless someone possesses other insights.