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Thank you, everyone. I replaced the water pump; but, it was a novice mistake not to replace the thermostat simultaneously. That is my oversight. I will modify it over the weekend. Thank you once more for your prompt assistance; it is greatly appreciated

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I concur with br1anuk.

The thermostat is malfunctioning and requires replacement.

Greetings everyone, The temperature gauge of the x5 e53 M54 3.0i does not exceed the first quarter mark; however, when stationary at idle, it rises to the halfway point. While driving, it descends back to the first quarter or around the cold blue mark, and the vehicle emits lukewarm air, however it operates OK. Any assistance or guidance would be much valued. Thank you, everyone.

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https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Inflator-Compressor-Portable-Motorcycles/dp/B0DHL5DNRN

I purchased an item similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Inflator-Compressor-Portable-Motorcycles/dp/B0DHL5DNRN It has functioned effectively for my needs and is somewhat less expensive than the Makita alternative. One can establish the preferred psi and depart. The advantageous aspect is that when inflating four fully flat truck tires, you can interchange batteries to maintain continuous operation. I am not very fond of the combined inflator and jumper tools, as it is improbable that one can jump-start a vehicle and inflate four flat tires on a single battery. Moreover, if the internal battery fails, you will forfeit two functionalities.

I possess Dewalt tools and batteries. I observed that they provide a larger combined jump starter and tyre inflator.

Do you possess power tools? In that case, contemplate acquiring an inflator compatible with their batteries. I possess a device that utilises Makita batteries, and it functions exceptionally well. The price was approximately $35 and it is not manufactured by Makita.

I possess a Sealey cordless tire inflator, a cracking tool, and it includes two batteries and a charger. Additionally, I possess a Noco Boost jump pack, which functions as a torch and includes USB ports for charging devices such as phones.

I no longer possess any all-in-one jump start packs or tyre inflators. Currently, most vehicles are equipped with a Bosch air pump and a CTEK CS FREE. Both are competitively priced on Amazon for Black Friday.

I have been examining battery jump starter units that also provide tyre inflation capabilities. Several options are available on Amazon for approximately £75, after which prices escalate to £200. Do you have any suggestions? I possess a diverse array of vehicles, ranging from my SL to a Fiat Ducati RV, and I seek a singular solution that can accommodate all of them.

No battery alerts have occurred subsequently. However, I will assist this individual as soon as the weather is not very chilly outside. 😂 I opted for the 10A to avoid an 11-hour charging delay.

The battery number on my service sheet is MA001 982 81 08/26, suggesting it is an OEM Varta 80Ah AGM battery; but, it may be from any brand, so I will attempt to inspect it at some point. I believe it will be challenging to make a claim, particularly if it can be sufficiently charged to pass a battery assessment. I can envision them merely recharging it and exclaiming, 'See, it's functioning!' so rendering my trip to NW London, where I no longer reside, futile. There may be a two-year guarantee, potentially less than the manufacturer's, presumably to account for the part number being associated with several vendors.

Thank you, everyone. I believed at the time that the auxiliary capacitor was responsible for the start/stop function (I am uncertain about the specific roles of each component, to be honest), and as I was indifferent to that aspect, I neglected it. 😂 I will examine whether there is any warranty on the battery, which was installed during a service at a dealership. I am uncertain if the service sheet will provide relevant information, but I will explore further. I am unaware of the brand, to be honest, as I have never removed the cover. A typical travel exceeding 45 minutes sufficed to mitigate that warning for several weeks, and this remained true even lately. Recent occurrences of the notice appearing post-drive have led me to suspect a phantom drain. However, it currently appears that battery situation is more probable. The current plan is to get a Noco 5 charger, fully recharge it, and assess its status. The battery may have been defective from the outset. An AGM battery, even under less than ideal conditions, should last longer than 2.5 years.

I possess a large, antiquated Crypton 'Chargemaster' charger, originating from my late father's workshop. It is approximately the dimensions of a small filing cabinet and can provide around 400A, capable of starting a vehicle with a fully depleted battery, irrespective of its duration of inactivity. It is presently concealed within my storage container. Although it can provide a beneficial charge to a depleted battery in approximately 20 minutes, this practice is detrimental to the battery's longevity. However, it can facilitate your immediate needs in an emergency, provided you monitor the current input and reduce it slightly. If street parking necessitates the absence of a maintenance charger, an alternative is a solar panel charger, which can be positioned on the dashboard or parcel shelf. Higher-quality models can deliver a beneficial trickle charge sufficient to counteract the drain from car alarms and maintain battery levels. It is important to note that inferior models may be ineffective; however, investing in a moderately superior option could prove advantageous. These chargers must be connected to a continuously live point within the vehicle to supply power while the car is locked and inactive, typically accessible via a permanently live fuse in the fuse box.

If the car is little utilised, this may be the problem—insufficient usage to achieve a complete charge. Do you possess off-road parking, either in a driveway or garage, with access to mains power? In that case, acquiring a maintenance charger and consistently connecting the vehicle to it when not in use would likely be the solution. The conventional recommendation is to acquire a CTEK charger; however, more economical options exist from ALDI or LIDL. Their 'Ultimate Speed' chargers also feature maintenance and cold weather modes, effectively maintaining battery charge levels. They will not charge a fully depleted battery; for that purpose, I still possess an ancient Gunson 'dumb' charger that can revive a dead battery over the course of a day, after which I switch to the maintenance charger. I possess two inexpensive chargers from Aldi/Lidl to maintain two spare batteries in a charged state. The grey item cost approximately £10 around five years ago, while I believe I spent £12.95 for the other one a few weeks prior. The two batteries I am maintaining on charge originated from distinct vehicles; one was extracted from my W140 upon its disposal approximately four years ago, while the other was removed from my SL when I purchased a new battery for it last month. I was unaware of the age or history of that battery, despite its satisfactory performance in starting the car. I prefer not to enter winter with an uncertain battery. Both batteries can jump-start other vehicles or power tiny 12V devices temporarily.

The voltage measurements being conducted here are incompatible for assessing a battery's state of charge. Utilising the battery voltage as an indicator of a battery's state of charge is valid only when the battery is at rest and there is minimal or negligible current flow. Recall the initial automobile alarms that were activated due to the detection of a battery voltage decrease produced by the illumination of the interior light. The in-car battery voltage monitor consistently reflects the current draw, which might be beneficial for comparison analysis if one is aware of the appropriate healthy metrics. This method is ineffective for determining the state of charge of batteries according to standard published tables, as any substantial current draw will reduce the battery voltage, resulting in a fully charged battery not registering 12.6 volts or the appropriate fully charged voltage for its type. The appropriate method for utilising the published state of charge tables is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals while the vehicle is in a dormant state. The recent failure of a recently installed battery, which ceased functioning in stop-start mode a few months post-installation, suggests an issue with either the battery or the charging mechanism and warrants investigation accordingly. An OEM battery is expected to endure beyond 2.5 years, leading me to consider that the battery may have been deficient from the outset, which is a possibility. What is the duration of the battery warranty? I acknowledge that I am contentedly operating a vehicle with a battery that no longer facilitates the stop-start function, which ceased to function after 6.5 years of use.

My previous vehicle (ALFA) had a voltage of approximately 11.5v due to its failing battery, which resulted in numerous malfunctions, such as ABS and stability warning lights, as well as a flashing odometer. These issues were solely attributable to the low voltage and were resolved with the installation of a new battery.