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https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=BMW+ISTA+diagnostic+software

My standard procedure is to use long-nose pliers to slide up the small white locking tab, then squeeze it to remove the plug. I believe that higher-spec foxwell, autel, launch, isa, etc., will be able to handle it, but the 301 won't.

I was afraid it would be necessary to replace it by now, so I appreciate your help. Excuse my seemingly elementary question: is there a special technique for disconnecting the power cord? When I was cleaning the egr valve, I left it connected because I was afraid I would break it. Would it be better to use an app like Ista to reset the adaptations on my inexpensive scanning tool, the Fowell nt301? Many thanks

My apologies; I mistook it for having been replaced. If cleaning does not resolve the issue, the fault codes suggest a problem with the position sensing. Using a real Wahler valve is the way to go. In order for the ECU to learn the new valve positions, you must reset the adaptation with diagnostic equipment when you replace it.

🙃

What exactly do you mean when you say "reset adaptation"? Instead of installing a new one, I simply cleaned the old one.

What brand of EGR did you install, and did you reset the adaptation?

https://www.amazon.com/s?ascsubtag=v1-a484af-606291-72ad3856a6-k&k=BMW+EGR+valve

Good day, I'm experiencing problems with the EGR valve. Here are the codes I'm seeing: The range and performance of the P046C EGR sensor 'A' circuit 'A' control for P042F EGR is stuck closed. The codes persist despite my two attempts to clean the egr valve. Can you suggest anything I should do after this? Many thanks

The rear camera is so bad that it's practically useless after a rainy trip unless you take it outside and wipe it down. The door mirrors, however, appear to have avoided the majority of the spray, so there is that.

Thank you! I was hoping they provided some protection, but I did notice that they were small. The EV2 will end up with a dirty rear end just like the EV3, which is a shame, but I suppose the spray can't be stopped from reaching that level.

In fact, when it rains, the EV2's upright back end becomes filthy. I had KIA mudflaps installed as part of the purchase, and I must say, they're not very practical at all! In addition to falling approximately 30 mm short of the bodywork, they barely cover half the width of the tires. In my opinion, they are grossly inadequate, so I wouldn't recommend them for the EV2 until aftermarket larger mudflaps become available.

I was wondering if the EV2 would experience the same issue as the EV3 did with the back end getting really dirty. My guess is yes. If that's the case, I'm curious if installing mud flaps will help.

open the door and deactivate the handbreak by pulling the release lever on the dashboard.

It's not easy to push such a heavy vehicle. You could also try chiselling out a section of wall where the door meets the wall if the garage in question. It made all the difference when I did that and added an extra inch to the door opening. For parking, I turn the ignition back on, use the parking brake button to disable the brake, and then turn off the ignition, but I've never tried keeping it in neutral while turned off.

If the hardware for remote parking is already installed in your vehicle, you might want to look into it. Having the subscription on my own car allowed me to park in more congested multi-story garages, with those concrete circular pillars. However, I no longer have it.

From what I can recall, you can try stepping out of the vehicle, shutting the door, pressing down on the brake pedal with a piece of wood or similar object, shifting into neutral, and finally pushing the car into the garage. Unlock the door. Repeat the process to remove it once more.

Even though it fits in my garage, I'll be taking it somewhere else soon. Right now, though, it would be so much easier if I could just push it in without any trouble getting out. It would be great if I could force it in, but if that isn't possible, then it's okay.

I don't mean to be impolite, but why would you even consider purchasing a vehicle if you already know it won't fit in your garage?

My garage is big enough to accommodate my newly bought C43 convertible, but getting out of it requires more of a climb than just opening the door. It would be convenient if I could just push it into or out of the garage, allowing me to use the door for entry and exit. When I'm in Neutral and I open the door, the problem starts. The handbrake is pressed and the gearbox goes into park. It appears that the handbrake is automatically applied when I attempt to climb out of the car while in Neutral. Is anyone aware of the feasibility and, if so, the process for accomplishing this?

At low revs and idle, my engine sounded grumpy, almost like exhaust rumble. However, unlike the OP, I did not experience any vibrations in the cabin. I later installed the serpentine belt (the one I had ordered was too large), and it makes a world of difference in terms of noise reduction;took care of the crankshaft pulley and idler pulley/tensioner. Now I'm worried about something else—I can hear the turbo turning on and running down.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Automatic+Transmission+Fluid

Lower pulley chain. Take a look at it while the engine is running to verify its true run-ability.

I appreciate it and will give it a try.