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Make sure the injectors aren't leaking by checking the glow plugs.

Fuel may not necessarily escape when air enters. An 'o' ring seal, located in the fuel filter's center, can serve as the ingress point. I was able to diagnose that using PTFE tape. It is true that a fuel pump can release air. Repair kits have been utilised on that. Engine that was much older, though. A leak off kit was rigged for the 646. Some tubing and plastic soda bottles from a dollar store made up the bulk of it. Clear and efficient.

The fuel pipe connections, for example, are allowing air to enter. Is it possible to also have it sucked in by the high-pressure pump? I need to check for injector leak off. Also, usually this would manifest as a fuel leak, right? I can barely discern any scent of diesel in the slight mist that lingers around a few of the fuel pipes.

Basic possibilities. Air leaking in, most likely through the fuel filter. Too much evaporation.

Yes, this is exactly what I'm considering; I believe it has more to do with fuel than glow plugs. At this point, it's just annoying, but it always starts and runs well afterward. Is anything out there that you've tested or looked into?

Hello! In the winter, my CLS, which has the same engine, acts similarly. It happens frequently that the engine starts the second time I turn the key without trying to turn it over. Does the fuel drain back have anything to do with it? It functions admirably, just as you said it would.

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Excuse me, I have a W211 E320 cdi with 108k miles on the om642 V6 diesel engine. Up until a couple of years ago, it was serviced regularly using genuine parts, even by the main dealer. I've got a problem where when it's left for a couple of days unused it'll take a bit longer to start, it always does start but it's like when you change the fuel filter and theres air in the lines, once it does start it runs perfect and will start again that day and even the next no problem at all, its only when it's 2+ days. There isn't a glow plug light or engine management light on, and it's hot here right now (more than 30 degrees Celsius), so I doubt they're needed. Using my rudimentary OBD reader, I have tracked the fuel rail pressure: with ignition on number 2, it ranges from 6.5 bar to 8.7 bar, and when the engine is started, it stays around 300 bar and climbs as the throttle is applied. Bosch made the battery, which is relatively new. I've checked under the hood and didn't find any major leaks; however, I did notice a tiny mist of oil (or maybe fuel?) on the fuel hoses connecting the high-pressure pump to the fuel filter; however, the mist is so tiny that I am unable to determine its source or whether it would have any impact. Can you think of anything?

Was the USB-C port still functional when Halfords returned the vehicle to you, or did it fail at the same time as their work?

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I have attempted to charge the mobile phone, but it is still not working. Yes, I did inspect the fuse because the guarantee does not cover wiring or fuses. Does anyone have experience with software glitches?

The scope of the warranty determines the answer to the last question. Unplugging is often not done. Is one more memory stick not working?

Greetings, everyone! I had a memory stick in my USB-C charger for the front-mounted dashcam, but it stopped operating while I was driving. Still haven't solved the problem after power cycling the system and resetting the program. Light from the LED surrounding the USB is shining. They indicated the fuse was fine when I took the vehicle to a general repair shop. The only thing I did was have Halfords install a back dashcam two weeks ago; it runs from the battery in the trunk. Can you tell me what's wrong? Will this defect be covered by my extended warranty? Much obliged

Based on my experience with my other mini, I know that the pump isn't the problem. After reviewing the scan tool's data, I've narrowed it down to one issue: the fuel rail pressure is only 1.3 mpa, while it's 5.2 mpa on my other mini. My only remaining guess is that the fuel rail pressure sensor is giving a false reading and preventing the engine from starting.

The smoke machine, along with a reliable scan tool and real-time data, will make pinpointing easier. To test whether the problem lies with the pump or the cracked pipe, try disconnecting the fuel line that runs from the high-pressure pump to the fuel rail; in rare cases, this may work.

Well done, you've ruled out that avenue 👍.

They were all removed from a running vehicle, and the sensors that were in there were likewise tested on the running vehicle and found to be in working order.

You need compression levels above 190 psi for a turbo, which is currently low. I find it interesting that brake cleaner/easy start only moistens the plugs, yet having spark is helpful. Were the sensors you swapped out OEM parts from a local retailer or authentic BMW parts? I won't claim otherwise, but with all the fake stuff floating around, it's worth verifying.

Amazon.com

ey there! I just acquired a 2007 R56 Cooper S. The test drive was great, however the seller wanted it gone fast because he was going on a six-month work trip (which I verified). Any advice? We drove out after agreeing on a price—which was ridiculously low—but the vehicle suddenly stopped working on me after just 4.6 miles.I am an old-school mechanic who is familiar with carbs and distributors, so I thought this would be easy. However, it ran out of fuel when I was on a busy road, and I tried to start it until the battery died. Now, two weeks later, I have bought a second-running R56 Chevy to try to fix it. It starts up and runs smoothly, but that's about it. Following is a rundown of everything I've done thus far; I've swapped out all the parts for runners and it still operates, however a quick Google search revealed that the HPFP change was unsuccessful. The reader displays 27ce codes. Revised hpfp Revised lpfp to Vanos solenoid replaced Replaced the camera's sensor Modified maf sensors I used the setting tool to verify the timing, and it was perfect. During priming and cranking, 12v at LPFP Ignite all four spark plugs Has the sensation of exhaust pressure when turning the crank Cold compression test results show 155 to 166 psi. I use the easy start method, however it only moistens the plugs. Both horsepower and torque gages show fuel rail pressures of 1.3 mpa on the reader and 5.1 mpa on the runner. The only sensors I haven't switched out yet are the ones for fuel rail pressure and crank, and now I don't know what to do. Who can provide me a hand?

Sadly, no; he's firmly putting his foot down. What a shame, because that car is just stunning. I simply do not believe it at this time.

Defeating the dealers is not an easy task. If you are in the UK, I hope a strongly worded letter referencing the Consumer Rights Act would be enough.

My research online indicated that these were tty bolts, so I appreciate your confirming that. Stretch or not, the assembly was a major letdown. It is a matter of trading standards because the dealer is also refusing to accept returns. Buddy, I really appreciate you sharing that information.

Since these are not stretch bolts, you can reuse them provided you get the correct part and keep it straight. But it seems like it hasn't followed the exact fitting sequence that is required.