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Does it have any utility in a TTY case? The material of the bolt might change as a result.

According to Google, the bolt dimensions are M14 x 1.5 x 120. Look for M14 x 1.5 x 120 on Google if this is the case. is fine pitch (it doesn't specify, but you may enquire or locate an alternative that does; they're reasonably priced), it ought to fulfil the purpose.

It is highly probable that this is one of those cases where MB part numbers have been revised or replaced.

I'm going to attempt it. I'll try to find out if anyone can retrieve it.

To top it all off, it's over twenty-two quid for a seemingly regular chassis bolt!!! If you know the measurements, your local factor or repair supplier probably has it for a couple of pennies.

I appreciate that. Even though I saw it, the wait for that part is excruciatingly long.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267238281445?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338181125&toolid=10001&customid=2518X1570512X8d119b786ed7e7dec575216ee62d050c&subId2=15

I need to locate a discontinued item with the number n000912014089. Nowhere can I locate it. So, what else could I use in its place?

Also, I'm starting to lean toward the "short trips" side, so I appreciate your perspective. They put it on their charging system yesterday afternoon, so we should receive the findings sometime this morning. There is a lot of helpful information that owners find on our site, so I appreciate you taking the time to weigh in. As far as I am aware, the battery compartment has the tiniest cargo area of any place I have ever seen. Just to follow up — Is the 'battery tender' or trickle charge mechanism something you're familiar with? If so, which model/brand do you think is best? I intend to start checking the voltage at regular intervals from now on. However, I really enjoy driving this vehicle and would like to ensure its dependability to the best of my abilities.

Just wanted to give you a heads up regarding the 12V battery not getting charged enough from just using EV mode for short trips in the winter. The vendor connected it to their charger and battery testing apparatus. Instead of replacing it, they fixed it under warranty and didn't charge me a dime. The dealer's mechanic suggested using a battery tender to charge the 12-volt battery if you plan on continuing to drive short distances (<20 miles) on electric mode only. The other models are around 1.5 amps, but I'm inclined to go with a 'Battery Tender' 4 amp type. It would make me very delighted to hear your comments on that. Note: the tow truck connected its 10-foot charging cables to the 12-volt battery's positive terminal and the frame's ground terminal after I connected five feet of my own cables to the battery. It was immediately jump-started, and I backed it out of a cramped garage and drove it to the dealership. In Michigan's 0-20F winters, the lessons learned from using the EV mode are invaluable, but I still adore the car.

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Weak 12V power source. Less time to charge due to chilly weather and shorter journeys. Probably the dealer will swap it out for you.

Twice this winter in Michigan, my CX70 PHEV's engine's 12-volt battery had a "total" loss of power. This typically occurs after a few short excursions under 19 miles, followed by recharging the PHEV battery to fill it up. Basically, it's a time when the petrol engine isn't used for more than a few miles at a time so the alternator can charge the 12-volt battery. Both instances occurred in the morning following an overnight charge of the PHEV. The next day, upon pressing the start button, I discovered that neither the red security light nor any of the instrument cluster lights were illuminated. Additionally, when left unlocked, the door locks do not make a sound. Sitting quietly while attempting to press a start button that is not illuminated. Approximately 2.77 volts was the reading I got the second time I lifted the hood to check the battery voltage. In all likelihood, it is a weak battery that has trouble charging. While the first attempt at connecting a battery charger brought the voltage closer to 8 volts, the second time around I heard a lot of noise coming from the engine area and had to turn off the device. They jumped me using Mazda Roadside Assistance. The vehicle was able to be restarted by connecting to their tow truck and performing a classic parallel jump. Got it going and dropped it off at the local M-dealer for analysis today. Findings are still being finalised. Has anyone encountered a situation like this before?

Sounds like a lead sparking out or an earth leak, which might cause a short. In the dead of night, inspect the engine leads for the presence of blue sparks earthing.

My 1.4 Fiesta no longer has a terrible idle after I filled up with E5 petrol. Using the higher octane has made my engine run more smoothly at any speed.

Hello there, I appreciate you providing that data to me. Once I have the data, I will text you back, but first I need to get an obd2 connector that works with Forscan.

I performed several tests in Forscan, alright. Idle rpm ranges from 690 to 705 rpm, spark advancement deviation is low, and both the short-term and long-term fuel trim are good. The short-term trim ranges from -4% to 2%, and the long-term trim is nearly consistent at 10%. Now my only remaining suspicions are that the vibration could be caused by a faulty engine mount and that the lights could be an electrical issue. I would be grateful for any suggestions or assistance, despite

Without a doubt, I concur. In order to help you figure out what's wrong and how to fix it, on-board diagnostics systems are available. They remove all room for uncertainty.

The rev counter is going to be muffled to compensate for some volatility in the revs, so you can't rely on it. Find out what the real revs are with the use of an on-board diagnostic information (OBDII) device. Incorporate the Forscan app or software into your purchase. Follow the on-board diagnostics, a meter connected to the battery, an on-board diagnostics and information system (OBDII) tool, or a meter located in the car's electrical outlets to complete the test. Take every test.

As the technician was supposed to do, check the battery's condition and the earthing strap underneath the battery.

Greetings, all! Even with the engine warmed up to operating temperature, my 2003 1.8L Mondeo starts shaking when I let it idle. Up until the rpms return, a little pressure on the gas pedal gets it going again. It is said that the idling rpm is fine as it stays at 750 and doesn't fluctuate. Another thing I noticed is that when the engine is not revving (around 1000-1100), all of the lights—cabin, dashboard, and headlights—flicker. I was worried about the alternator, but the mechanic assured me that everything is OK. Your assistance is much valued.

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You might be OK if they're already droopy. However, when you squeeze the bag, you'may' be resisting pressure. Seems like there's a way to open the air unit's valve with a PP9 volt batteries. Surprisingly, the man failed to bring up polarity. I only have two pins, but he was performing it on a three-pin version. Insignificant detail. Both deflating at the same time suggests that the valve block is likely to pass. Out of the blue, mine dropped. They are both over 16 years old, so I decided to replace them.

Thank you for the detailed explanation; I found it both easy to understand and useful. Leave mine alone, and the bags will deflate, which is both good and harmful.

I was really confused till you retrieved it. I was apprehensive about disconnecting the air supply line while the bag was still under pressure. I was wrong to be, though. After removing it, I deflated using the diagnostics. With the tire removed and the bottom bolt of the bag removed, I was able to hear the o/s bag hiss as I deflated it with the jack. To activate it, you must continuously press the F3 key. The PC was in the driver's seat, so I couldn't hear anything from the n/s. However, it's likely that they were too far away. After taking the electrical plug out and removing the bolt at the wheel hub of the rear arm, which allowed it to be pulled lower, the bag could be manoeuvred to come out by lifting it off the arm and guiding it to the back. It may be helpful to loosen the bolt at the base of the damper and pull it out to create an additional inch or two of clearance. Although it is not necessary. The new Arnott A-2726 (both units are the same) is easy to install in my instance. There are diagnostic functions that can inflate, but it is not immediately clear if this is having any effect. So I put it on wheels and went for a drive. Until the level sensors were filled to the exact mark, proceed slowly. I will make sure it no longer leaks by monitoring it overnight. There is no functionality in iCarsoft V2 for this. A more suitable setup was at my disposal.