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It appears that most people agree that later models use cheaper materials. I didn't have any issues with any of the trims on my 2017 Evoque, so it's likely that they are trying to cut costs.

I simply used auto glym ultra gloss to polish mine, and they look great on my old 2013 Evoque. 😁

Many people have noticed that the gloss black pillars and mirror caps start to take on a blue tint. Fortunately, there are plenty of pillar trims available on sites like Fleebay and other inexpensive repair options.

The paint on the driver's side windshield/door pillar of my 2022 Evoque is peeling off, which I discovered yesterday after washing the vehicle. I took it to my neighbourhood dealer today, and they said the sun's heat is to blame (it's just on the pillar, not anywhere else) and that the warranty doesn't apply since the car is more than three years old. I contacted Landover's customer service department, who basically stated that the product was no longer covered because it was out of warranty. Be wary of delamination in the paintwork of a brand-new or nearly new Range Rover Evoque; according to JLR, it's perfectly OK for the paint to peel.

Thank you, I will remember this.

Amazon.co.uk : BMW

Sinoparcel D4S Xenon Bulb, 8000K Ice Blue, 35W, Pack of 2 | Distinctive Appearance, OEM HID Headlight Replacement, MOT Compliant, Compatible with 66440 42402, P32d-5 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

I've always assumed it's the inner arch liners. Those gaps get hit with spray from the rain with a lot of force when you're going fast. Also, check under the bonnet for the lamps. I had an F31 with a hairline crack, so water would pool and seep in. I had an MG ZT with a lost small panel in the arch liner, so there was light moisture. That's why I think it happens to BMW lights and other brands. I sealed the gaps between the arch liners on my F31 with silicone, and it's easy to remove if the insp

I am very grateful for this.

Looking at the joint between the lamp's body and clear lens, you can see that RTV is a silicone sealer. Blurred line connecting black and clear. It's not a big deal to remove the front bumper in order to access the lamps on f10/11.

Thanks, there isn't a tonne of water in the units just yet. Nothing at all, not even warning lights. It seems like this RTV around the joint could be a good preventative measure to try. Would you mind telling me what RTV is and which joint it is?!? Can you tell me how much effort is required to simply gain access to this joint? Pardon me, but I'm not very well-versed in this area. At the time (about February 2026), I took it to a shop in the Midlands, and they repaired it for approximately one-third of what BMW had quoted (£3,000 for a single headlight). I appreciate it once more.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=RTV

Sinoparcel D4S Xenon Bulb, 8000K Ice Blue, 35W, Pack of 2 | Distinctive Appearance, OEM HID Headlight Replacement, MOT Compliant, Compatible with 66440 42402, P32d-5 : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

For my instance, I let the lamps dry completely before cleaning the joint between the lens and black body thoroughly to remove any debris. Then, I applied a bead of clear RTV around the joint to seal it.

Greetings everyone The usual water intrusion in one of the headlights occurred in my 2011 535i F11. I would like to assist a relative who has found a 2011 F10 535i in avoiding this situation, if that is at all feasible. Is there anything that can be done, apart from covering the car every time it rains? It's obviously not going to happen. Replace the seals if they have expired? Put a sealant around the unit's perimeter. Does anyone know how to stop or at least slow down the water from entering the car, given that this is a common issue with this model? Much obliged

High noon That was really helpful; I intend to review it over the weekend, weather permitting. I might see if operating the roof while connected to a CTEK charger helps. Do you mean that the roof won't work if the heating element in the back window breaks? Much obliged.

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I wouldn't assume the motor has failed just yet; the fact that the windows lower and the roof enters sunroof mode indicate that the switch is being recognised. Instead, I'd investigate what's blocking the next step of the sequence. It's possible for the microswitches to seem to be in the right place without the roof module genuinely receiving the signal; thus, it's important to double-check their wiring in addition to the parcel shelf and boot levers, which you have previously examined. Because the roof is also dependent on position sensors, this is the exact point at which the sequence can be interrupted by a broken wire or malfunctioning sensor. Prior to purchasing any components, I would verify the battery voltage, fuse, and, ideally, have the roof module scanned for fault codes. The significance of the unlit switch indicator varies with the model, but it is still worth looking into. To get a feel for the reading, I recommend comparing the resistance to the functioning mirror first. The heater may or may not be functioning properly even though the connection shows continuity and voltage. It may be the glass's heating element that has broken if the wiring is fine. Have dealt with this type of thing previously, so it's worth seeing if the glass itself needs fixing. Replacement options can be found at https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/wing-mirror-10666/land-rover/range-rover/range-rover-iii-lm. Because electrochromic mirrors can vary in specification, it is important to select the right one for your 2012 model.

I appreciate it; I'll be sure to check the fuses after I get the operations manual I ordered.

Good day, As a first step, I'd make sure the folding roof's fuse is ok. If the roof was functioning properly before and the switch is not illuminated, this could be a simple and inexpensive solution. Wishing you all the best

Good afternoon! I recently purchased a car from a private seller. The roof was working fine before, but now, when my wife takes it out for a spin, the roof won't go down, no matter what I do. I've also noticed that there isn't a light next to the toggle switch, which is a bit of a mystery. I've checked the boot and parcel shelf, and the levers go down, but that's about it. I've tried central locking and window reset, and I've even tried pushing the roof back into sunroof mode to make sure it's fully in. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Identifying the best engine for your needs Those vehicles must have 642 horsepower if you're comparing them. If we now compare the 204 to the 651, and the 211 to the 646, we can see that the 211 is an even better vehicle. An easy-out EGR, no DPF, and no AdBlu. Gets more than 50 mpg with ease. I can't make up my mind whether to sell the Viano (651 model) or the S211 (646 model). I think it would be reliable to run the 211 for a while. However, my heart is arguing because it's retro.

Energy drink or petrol? For the C-Class, 2014 was a new model year. While W205 will be used for later models, W204 will be used for earlier ones. The W204 and W205 gas-powered vehicles shared the same M274 engine, but the W205 had a 2.0-liter tank instead of 1.6-liters. This diesel vehicle switched from CDI (ULEZ charge applies but no AdBlue) to d (ULEZ charge applies but no AdBlue) mode. You should verify if the vehicle is E220CDI (no AdBlue) or E220d (AdBlue) since the W212 runs until 2016 and also got the AdBlue version of the OM651 in 2014. Unfortunately, the E220 petrol is likely to use the less-than-ideal M271 engine.

Two disclaimers: professional cab drivers from all over the globe can attest that covering 300,000 miles in an E is simple and inexpensive. Furthermore, Madame Cholet has a preference for more compact vehicles, such as the C class, because she rarely sees passengers in the rear.

I would gladly take another W211 class over an S204 C class since I have already taken both of them. Much more pleasant, and occasionally a better alternative, if three people need to ride in the back. The C class is fine in its own right, but the E is the superior all-arounder.