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It's quite unlikely that I will ever consider purchasing it. Just like I mentioned before, cars end up on this island in the end, although I'm disappointed that it happened sooner rather than later. (There are some choice bangers floating around since we don't need a MOT or anything like that.) I should include in the DPF talk that the vehicle has not been driven more than 2.5 miles and has never been out of second gear since I took possession of it in August of last year. I attempted to resolve the dpf light by driving continuously up and down the new section of road for 45 minutes while maintaining high rpm in first gear, but it was unsuccessful. It has been really chilly here; for several weeks, the temperature has not risen over 6 degrees, and there were even lower periods before that. I'm going to start looking for a good scanner. Many thanks

I anticipate that it will be costly. How hot is it outside? Do you happen to have a scanner on hand? When the temperature drops below +10°C, the injectors and their back pressure become important. The pressure on the overflow rail is 10 bars. Additionally, starting can be a challenge if the overflow rail pressure valve is malfunctioning. Under freezing temperatures, one 2009 X-trail would not start due to two faulty injectors.

The feedback is appreciated. Do you have any ideas as to what could be stopping it from starting? Since it isn't getting off to a hilly or easy start, it appears to be receiving instructions not to catch.

It seems to me that the problems are unrelated. On several times, the DPF light has came on. However, after a bit of driving at 2500 rpm, it generally goes off. The EML has also come on a couple of times, necessitating visits to the neighbourhood repair shop. Not a single one of these occurrences has affected starting, and it continues to drive normally with either light turned on. I recall returning home from Stonehenge to Hertfordshire one day while both headlights were illuminated, and the vehicle operated as smoothly as though neither light had been turned on. I took it to my neighbourhood garage the next morning for a forced regeneration, and it began right away. About three years ago; I've owned the vehicle for seven.

This is a great response. I wish I had followed this procedure when the car was still running after seeing this video a while ago. We also don't have the same high-tech plug-in unit that the person is using, so it's possible we couldn't have done it. However, I appreciate the suggestion and will investigate this more.

It appears that dpf is currently prohibited. Whenever the eml turns on, it usually means that there have been too many failed efforts at regenerating, thus the correct equipment is needed to do it safely presently.You can see videos of a guy performing one on YouTube.

Hi there, I'm hoping that those of you with more expertise can match my situation with some recommendations after reading through a lot of the earlier postings about starting troubles, but there's so much conflicting information! Last year, I purchased the automobile and transported it to the island where we reside. Old 4x4s are dying a slow death on this relatively tough terrain. I figured it would last a while, had a MOT, and seemed to be in excellent shape, so I bought it. It was noticeable upon initial delivery that it started slowly but consistently. It seemed like the crank was all it took to get going, but even after it caught, it took forever for the engine to really kick in and get rpm high enough to drive. This problem persisted over time. It finally started a few days ago, but ever since then, it hasn't turned over. I even purchased a new battery, but it didn't help. Checked for fuel leaks and primed the pump. I attempted a hill bump start, but it was unsuccessful. No luck with the easy start method. Concerned that the car wouldn't start when I initially acquired it, my mechanic neighbour hooked it up (using the rudimentary phone app Ob11 connection) and the diagnostic trouble code came up: dpf error. I made an effort to travel this way back when, but the island roads were so narrow that I couldn't go faster than 30 miles per hour. Ever since, the dpf light has been left on. No errors appeared when my neighbour replugged it, but the engine and dpf lights were still on. It is his recommendation that you test it without the dpf at all. There is no way we can bring the car to a repair shop that offers better plug-in alternatives. As I've read in other threads, he speculated that the timing chain may have slipped. Feedback is much appreciated!

There is a private message for you.

Hello! I was wondering if the resonator has two inlets and two outlets. If yes, what components would you need for the resonator alone? Warm regards

Might not work with your slk55. From the perspective of the E55k, the slk55 resonator and cats appear completely different. Regrettably, the ones I possess do not meet your needs.

To discuss the E55k's back boxes, exhaust tips, and the possibility for straight pipping, start a new post.

I asked Imran about second cats, and he said they won't make much of a difference. So, I'm simply trying to find a resonator box, if anyone happens to have one lying around?

Much obliged.

https://www.torqueflow.co.uk/our-services/

Feel free to contact Imran at Torqueflow Birmingham. Maybe he can lend a hand.

Excuse me, In order to get my R171 SLK55 back to factory specs, I need to find a resonator box and two secondary cats. It already has an x pipe and secondary cat delete installed. Wishing someone had swapped out theirs for xpipes and a secondary cat deletion and was willing to part with the old components? Warm regards

Hello, buddy! Is everything well now? I have a similar issue with my E92 330d

The pressure regulator orings are in good condition; I did not see any signs of damage or dryness. Since the pumps are identical and cost roughly 100 euros less, I have ordered a secondhand high pressure fuel pump from a Range Rover m57d30 engine. I will inform you on its functionality once I install the pump, which should arrive between February 4 and February 12. In my opinion, the hpfp is to blame since, even though it isn't linked to the common rail, the fuel still pours out of the pump like flowing water when I turn the key, leading me to believe that there should be pressure there.

For m57, I'd go with the e46.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GLsxREWWYiB6R8228

There are 184 horsepower in this model. If ignition is turned on, the supply pressure is 4.03 mbar; if it is turned off, it is 0.95 mbar. I don't know how to add screenshots, but you can see some of my images at this website. Let me know if it works!

The prior owner informed me that it has started troubles in the past, requiring starting fluid in order to start.

Engine model: M57 or M57N (184 or 204 horsepower)? Please tell me the background of this vehicle and the issue. So, what is the supply pressure when the ignition is turned on? Does anyone know how to decipher those codes? Verify them in DDE and provide comprehensive screenshots.

I have tried running diagnostics with IPA on my non-starting BMW E46 330d, and it comes up with a rail pressure of 6 bar. Loosening the high pressure fuel line from the hpfp to the rail caused it to spray fuel, but just a little amount. There was no discernible 'pressure' in the spray. When I measure the pressure before the supply begins, it comes out normally. Escrow was removed. After the gasoline filter, the fuel pressure is normal, according to my inspection. May it be the HPFP pressure regulator's orings or the HPFP unit itself? Additionally, I will document some failure codes from IPA here. 600,000 12800,000 1024,1152, and 7,680 I know you're her; you're my sole possibility.